3/4" Scale J1e

[Dick_Morris]

I will cut down a curved glass from the 1-1/2" scale headlamps.

Domed watch crystal?

https://www.esslinger.com/domed-watch-c ... -mm-thick/

[randallg]

Not sure what size conduit you need but If you go to eBay and search miniature conduit you will find a dealer out of UK that sells some that is 1.9 mm and some other nice braided line cover and some other nice detail parts . I have bought his miniature brass chain and brass shackles they are nice .

[LVRR2095]

Jack, for the conduit I have seen folks use the drive springs like those used on movie projectors. Small gauge wire will pass through and they are quite flexible.

Keith

[Howard Gorin]

Jack, I have flexible spring belting that measures .088"od.
The inside diameter will accommodate two small electric wires.
The spring belting is made of stainless steel.
Some spring beltings is made of high carbon steel and will rust.
This is what I use on my Pyle National head kits.
I also have fittings for the ends of the belting.
I could get the flexible belting made in smaller diameters if .088" is too big for 1" scale

[JBodenmann]

Hello My Friends
Thanks Dick Morris for the suggestion to use watch crystals. That is what I use for the Oliver back up lamps. For this headlamp I will be using a cut down zero diopter glass eyeglass lens. Also thanks for the suggestions concerning the flex conduit. For now I will have a go at making my own but will keep your tips in mind. I really appreciate your tips, suggestions and contributions to my threads. Here are some snappies of something you may find useful, small wing nuts to hold the headlamp number boards closed. I think I forgot to mention that this headlamp casting set was purchased from John Hudak. In this first photo we have a bit of .081" brass round stock that has been drilled with a #68 drill. This is the tap drill for a #000-120 thread. It has also had the end rounded off a bit. In the next photo down our work piece is having a slit cut in it with a .020" slitting saw. Next a bit of .020" brass is being silver soldered in place. And lastly, it has been filed to shape, center drilled and drilled again with the #68 drill and tapped. Then parted off. As talked about before, the chip pan of the lathe was vacuumed out so if the little rascal was dropped there would be more likelihood of finding it. I hate it when that happens.

[JBodenmann]

Here is some more. The toggle bolts that the wing nuts will fit to and then the toggle bolts and wing nuts. These are really oversize for 3/4" scale but this is about as small as I was prepared to make them. They have #000-120 threads and the pivot on the end is 1/16" tube silver soldered on. The bottom two photos show an important part of the locomotives "face", it's smile. I used some of the handrail stanchion casings that were received from the foundry the other day. The tubing is 3/32". As stated before 1/16" would have been more to scale but I wanted this it to be the same size as the handrails running down the boiler which will contain the wires for the headlamp and class lamps. Still bit of fiddling about with the headlamp, the remaining parts to fit the toggle bolts and wing nuts to the number boards, making the latch for the bezel, a reflector, and something to hold the number board glass in place. See you in the funny pages...
Jack

[little giant]

Hey Jack I was told that NYC did not use angled number boards on their head lights. I still enjoy how you make the “bling bling”. Keep up the great work.

[JBodenmann]

Hello My Friends
Little Giant, you are correct. I never really looked that close but now that you have pointed that out. I looked closely at some photos and, what do you know... I'm glad you pointed that out before I finished the headlamp. I will make some flat number boards and stick them on. I can still use my little wing nuts. Don't never assume nothin'.
Jack

[JohnHudak]

Hello My Friends
Little Giant, you are correct. I never really looked that close but now that you have pointed that out. I looked closely at some photos and, what do you know... I'm glad you pointed that out before I finished the headlamp. I will make some flat number boards and stick them on. I can still use my little wing nuts. Don't never assume nothin'.
Jack

Jack, Brian Kiem used to sell the flat number boards for those headlights, I don't know if he has them in stock now though..?
John

[JBodenmann]

Hello My Friends
Thanks for the tip John. I want to finish up the headlamp and will just slam a couple number boards together today.
Jack

[Jerry_H]

Funny pages be darned, Jack. I'm surprised we don't see you at the "funny farm" !!!!

Jerry

[JBodenmann]

Hello My Friends
The Funny Farm! Why I'll have you know I resemble that remark! There is a fine line between genius and insanity Here are some snappies of what lunacy I have been up to. The headlamp got some attention this weekend. Saturday I was worn out, and my body told me it was a couch day. I have learned to listen to my body. I spent Saturday in my comfy chair, reading and hanging out with the cat. Had I have gone out into the shop I might have hurt myself or broken something. I hate it when that happens. Today I made the new number boards and fitted them up along with the pivot mount for the toggle bolts and wing nuts. The headlamp bezel latch was also made and fitted up to the headlamp and a domed glass from the 1-1/2" scale Sunbeams was cut down. These engines didn't have the usual latch that I am used to seeing. The handle stuck out towards the front, instead of downwards like the usual Sunbeam, or Pyle National headlamp. Photos are a good model building tool. Once Cliff Grant built a Incredible HO scale shay. John Allen took some photos of it and made some large prints. Upon looking at them Cliff realized there were some insufficiencies in his model and re did some of it. After looking at these photos I realized the screw that the bezel latch catches against is way too large. I will replace it with a pin. Other than that I am pretty pleased with the way the smoke box is coming along. Next I will be making some things like the front end throttle lever and pivot bearing where the shaft enters the smoke box. There are also some valves that fit to the upper side of the smoke box for the blower lines and also the superheated steam line to the compressors. These valves will be for 3/32" piping. At least one of the blower valves will be functional. As far as I know there are no 3/32" valves available. I would like to make some really cool valves kind of like our dear departed friend Barry used to make. I will be making some molds and investment castings for them. I also want to make some octagon shaped union ells. I think they used forged steel ones on full size steam. Having fun here.
Jack