3/4" Scale J1e
Moderator: Harold_V
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Picky, picky, picky...
and Gorgeous, as usual.
My wife thinks the saw horses are the final perfect touch! Me too.
She wants you to build her a doll house...
RussN
and Gorgeous, as usual.
My wife thinks the saw horses are the final perfect touch! Me too.
She wants you to build her a doll house...
RussN
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3855
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Thank you Russ and LIALLEGHENY. I didn't make the rods but I think they are cold rolled steel. Once all the rods and valve gear parts are cleaned up they will get sent out for electroless nickel plating. I like nickel because if you leave it alone, after a while it will go dull and then it looks just like steel. I have seen rods chrome plated, but to me they don't look right. First the color is not right, and secondly it stays too shiny. To me rods and such should not be too bright. As to the saw horses they always seem to steal the show. I have used them before to perch parts on and they always receive good comments. Here is a photo of the engine house model with them just in the left corner of the photo. This cab was for a Little Engines American that was made for a client. I have been thinking of making another engine house model to photograph the Hudson. It would be much smaller only seven or eight feet long. The one in the photo was fourteen feet long and five feet wide. I have never made a doll house but it sounds like fun. Some day when I don't have anything to do...
Jack
Thank you Russ and LIALLEGHENY. I didn't make the rods but I think they are cold rolled steel. Once all the rods and valve gear parts are cleaned up they will get sent out for electroless nickel plating. I like nickel because if you leave it alone, after a while it will go dull and then it looks just like steel. I have seen rods chrome plated, but to me they don't look right. First the color is not right, and secondly it stays too shiny. To me rods and such should not be too bright. As to the saw horses they always seem to steal the show. I have used them before to perch parts on and they always receive good comments. Here is a photo of the engine house model with them just in the left corner of the photo. This cab was for a Little Engines American that was made for a client. I have been thinking of making another engine house model to photograph the Hudson. It would be much smaller only seven or eight feet long. The one in the photo was fourteen feet long and five feet wide. I have never made a doll house but it sounds like fun. Some day when I don't have anything to do...
Jack
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- Posts: 187
- Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2015 5:35 pm
- Location: Rochester NY
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hey Jack when I was building my caboose with a finished interior, my daughter kept asking what I was making all the time. So one day when she asked, I told her that I was making a doll house on wheels. When the caboose was finished, some of her friends came to the house and she showed them “her” doll house on wheels.
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3855
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Managed to get a little more done on the rods. The main rods were cleaned up a bit and polished. Then some new crosshead pins were made. The originals had a hardware store #10-32 nut and no slot in the backside . The new pin has a #10-40 thread and castle nut. The big end of the main rod has a cool floating bearing. I have never seen this before on a model.
Jack
Managed to get a little more done on the rods. The main rods were cleaned up a bit and polished. Then some new crosshead pins were made. The originals had a hardware store #10-32 nut and no slot in the backside . The new pin has a #10-40 thread and castle nut. The big end of the main rod has a cool floating bearing. I have never seen this before on a model.
Jack
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3855
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Here are a couple shots of the eccentric cranks. They originally had a one piece pin like the one on the right. I wanted a pin with a separate castle nut and cotter pin. The new pin has a lock nut on the back side and a #10-32 thread into the eccentric crank.. After hardening, it and the lock nut will be put in with Loctite 609. The castle nut has a #6-48 thread and the slots for the cotter are .025". Sorry about the messy work bench
Jack
Here are a couple shots of the eccentric cranks. They originally had a one piece pin like the one on the right. I wanted a pin with a separate castle nut and cotter pin. The new pin has a lock nut on the back side and a #10-32 thread into the eccentric crank.. After hardening, it and the lock nut will be put in with Loctite 609. The castle nut has a #6-48 thread and the slots for the cotter are .025". Sorry about the messy work bench
Jack
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- Posts: 363
- Joined: Sat Jan 11, 2014 12:36 am
- Location: Bohemia, NY
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
What kind of lifting apparatus do you have to get the eccentrics up on the bench? Don't want to get a hernia.
Nyle
Nyle
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Fingers, no doubt.
RN
RN
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- Location: St. Louis, MO
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3855
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Fork lift
Jack
Fork lift
Jack
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
"Fork lift."
Are you going to stage that image for our entertainment??
RussN
Are you going to stage that image for our entertainment??
RussN
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3855
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
No photos of the fork lift, it's camera shy...But here is something you might like. The combination levers and union links have been cleaned up and polished so some pins were needed to join them. The pins were made of L14 and case hardened. The thread is #4-48. To me this thread still looks a bit coarse, but that's what I had. I first made the heads on the castle nuts 3/16" across the flats but they just looked too big so I re made them 5/32". Ahh much better. The slots in the nuts are .020" and the cotter pins are .015". The only .015" wire I had was copper and it wouldn't draw file into half round very well so I will be getting some .015" stainless wire. Next up the cab. I felt like making something just for fun so a cab mock up was made from some thin card stock. The top photo is the first one. It was made to scale just to have a look. Well, this boiler sets a bit high and the gap between the cab floor and the rear frame extension was too much. Also the cylinders on this engine are a bit wider than scale, about half an inch. The cab should be ever so slightly narrower than the cylinders. So another card stock cab was made. I stretched it slightly in all directions, much better. This is dealing with what I call, "what is, versus what should be." The same thing had to be done with the streamlined Hudson. It's fire box was a little over an inch wider than it should have been so some adjustments had to be made to the cab. This is where cardboard mock ups come into play. Card stock is cheap and much easier to change than brass and steel. A lot cheaper too! Over the years I have found that proportion is more important than perfect scale. Sometimes perfect scale just doesn't look right and you just have to stand back and stick out your thumb. Full scale is usually looked at from alongside. Our models, from above. Go with what you got!
Jack
No photos of the fork lift, it's camera shy...But here is something you might like. The combination levers and union links have been cleaned up and polished so some pins were needed to join them. The pins were made of L14 and case hardened. The thread is #4-48. To me this thread still looks a bit coarse, but that's what I had. I first made the heads on the castle nuts 3/16" across the flats but they just looked too big so I re made them 5/32". Ahh much better. The slots in the nuts are .020" and the cotter pins are .015". The only .015" wire I had was copper and it wouldn't draw file into half round very well so I will be getting some .015" stainless wire. Next up the cab. I felt like making something just for fun so a cab mock up was made from some thin card stock. The top photo is the first one. It was made to scale just to have a look. Well, this boiler sets a bit high and the gap between the cab floor and the rear frame extension was too much. Also the cylinders on this engine are a bit wider than scale, about half an inch. The cab should be ever so slightly narrower than the cylinders. So another card stock cab was made. I stretched it slightly in all directions, much better. This is dealing with what I call, "what is, versus what should be." The same thing had to be done with the streamlined Hudson. It's fire box was a little over an inch wider than it should have been so some adjustments had to be made to the cab. This is where cardboard mock ups come into play. Card stock is cheap and much easier to change than brass and steel. A lot cheaper too! Over the years I have found that proportion is more important than perfect scale. Sometimes perfect scale just doesn't look right and you just have to stand back and stick out your thumb. Full scale is usually looked at from alongside. Our models, from above. Go with what you got!
Jack
- Greg_Lewis
- Posts: 3014
- Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 2:44 pm
- Location: Fresno, CA
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Jack:
Agreed on the "that looks about right" technique. I made up a cab out of foam core and hot glue to scale and it just wasn't right. Version II, which was larger, was better and what I went with. Same with the tender. Scale would have barely fit one butt, longer looks fine and fits two butts (beginning engineer in front, road foreman behind). Foam core is cheap, fast and easy, not so much with steel.
Agreed on the "that looks about right" technique. I made up a cab out of foam core and hot glue to scale and it just wasn't right. Version II, which was larger, was better and what I went with. Same with the tender. Scale would have barely fit one butt, longer looks fine and fits two butts (beginning engineer in front, road foreman behind). Foam core is cheap, fast and easy, not so much with steel.
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.