Another CliShay Build

Where users can chronicle their builds. Start one thread and continue to add on to it.

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jeanluc83
Posts: 33
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:02 pm
Location: Connecticut

Re: Another CliShay Build

Post by jeanluc83 » Tue Nov 26, 2019 4:52 pm

bill4227 wrote:
Fri Nov 22, 2019 3:14 pm
I have a Clishay...
How much end play do the axles have on your Clishay?

I'm currently working on the side frames for the trucks. I have one set pinned together ready to be silver soldered. With everything together I'm getting about 1/4" end play. The plans work out to have about 3/16". I'm sure that some of the extra end play is due to the side frames not being soldered. I'm just curious what other Clishays have.

It's kind of surprising how lose the trucks are. I guess that is one of the keys to keeping the unsprung trucks on the track.

bill4227
Posts: 96
Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2010 3:49 pm
Location: Taneytown, MD

Re: Another CliShay Build

Post by bill4227 » Tue Nov 26, 2019 6:31 pm

About what you have. Trucks track great.

Bill

jeanluc83
Posts: 33
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:02 pm
Location: Connecticut

Re: Another CliShay Build

Post by jeanluc83 » Tue Nov 26, 2019 7:31 pm

I'm glad to hear that. I figured I couldn't be too far off.

jeanluc83
Posts: 33
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:02 pm
Location: Connecticut

Re: Another CliShay Build

Post by jeanluc83 » Sat Dec 07, 2019 8:35 pm

I still need to silver solder the truck frames together but my Clishay is rolling finally. It feels good to reach a mile stone after more than 20 years. There is still a lot to do but at least it is identifiable as something train related and not just a pile of parts.

By far I’ve spent the most time on the truck side frames. The design is good in that very little machining is required but there are a lot of parts that needed to be fit, pinned and then sliver soldered.

For those that are interested I have about $450 tied up in the project up to this point. About $250 was spent since this spring. The gear set was most expensive at about $150.

The other $200 or so was spent over the last 20 years. That consisted of mainly the wheel castings and sprockets. Most of the other steel was scrounged from wherever I could get it.

I estimate it will be another $700-1,000 to finish it up but that’s shooting from the hip and will probably creep up as I go. The boiler and piping are the big outliers at this point.

The near term plan is to finish up the rest of the frame details and then move on to the transmission. At this rate my goal of starting the engine over the winter is unlikely but not impossible. Still, I’ll be happy if I can get the frame and running gear done by spring.
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littleevan99
Posts: 244
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Re: Another CliShay Build

Post by littleevan99 » Sat Dec 07, 2019 10:17 pm

Better late than never to finish it! I finished mine about 3 years ago, and added a duplex pump to it last year. Really reliable runner after I worked out the bugs that it had after building it. I would recommend that you key everything that slips together(wheels excluded). I didn't and have had to go back through as the Loctited joints failed one by one. The crankshaft gear being the most annoying. Other than that build a firetube boiler for it, and if speed ever becomes an issue for you swap the 36 tooth countershaft sprocket for an 18 tooth one. Lots of fun to run, and I still enjoy running mine.
1.5" scale CliShay
2.5" 20 ton Shay under construction
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/user/littleevan99

jeanluc83
Posts: 33
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:02 pm
Location: Connecticut

Re: Another CliShay Build

Post by jeanluc83 » Sun Dec 08, 2019 7:45 am

Thanks for the advice on keying everything. It's too late for the axle sprockets but I can do the countershaft still. I can always spot drill the axles where the set screws hit though.

I'm definitely going with a fire tube boiler I got some info from another builder that gives me enough info to build my own. I'm planning on fabbing all the steel myself then having it welded professionally.

jeanluc83
Posts: 33
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:02 pm
Location: Connecticut

Re: Another CliShay Build

Post by jeanluc83 » Mon Dec 09, 2019 6:07 pm

I posted my progress over at the Backyard Railroading Facebook group and had a question about have the transmission works. Since others might have the same question I figured I would post my response here too.

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Clishay transmission

The transmission is made up of the drive gear on the engine, three idler gears and the main gear. The axis of the drive gear and main gear are stationary. The idler gears are held together with plates that can pivot around the main shaft. Two idler gears are on one side of the transmission and one on the other side. By tilting the transmission to engaging the idlers with the drive gear you have a forward and a reverse.

The transmission was also designed to have a neutral. This is to allow the engine, which also drives the feed water pump, to run while stationary.

I hope that clears things up a little bit. Understand that I might have forward and reverse backwards on my diagram as it was drawn from memory.

jeanluc83
Posts: 33
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:02 pm
Location: Connecticut

Re: Another CliShay Build

Post by jeanluc83 » Wed Jan 01, 2020 9:08 pm

More bits and pieces.

I got the bearing blocks that support the transmission shaft made. I decide to try a new technique. I glued the two blocks together with super glue then facing them to length and bored them out as a single piece. A little heat released the glue. The result was two perfectly matched blocks. i was happy with how well them came out. I still need to press in the bearings and be match drilled to the bed plate.

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Transmission shaft bearing blocks
I decided to buy coupler pocket castings for knuckle coupler rather than make link and pin couplers shown in the plans. I just didn't want to go though all the work that the original ones would involve.

I got the castings from Allen Models for $12 a piece. I chucked them up in the four jaw and made quick work of facing off the back. I need to drill the mounting holes and clean up some of the rough edges of the casting still.

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Facing off the back of the coupler pocket
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Coupler pockets almost done
I have most of the work done on the oak pilot beams. I'm planning on giving them a couple of coats of spar varnish before i start to match drill the coupler pocket and foot board supports. I don't want to get the clean wood dirty.

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Benjamin Maggi
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Re: Another CliShay Build

Post by Benjamin Maggi » Thu Jan 02, 2020 8:58 am

It might not matter to you if you plan to use link and pin couplers, but the Allen models coupler pocket casting is for couplers with really small shanks. The Allen couplers fit their coupler pocket castings, but I don't think most other brands of couplers will unless you machine down the shanks quite a bit. Just a thought.
"One cannot learn to swim without getting his feet wet." - Benjamin Maggi
- Building: 7.25" gauge "Sweet Pea" named "Catherine"

jeanluc83
Posts: 33
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:02 pm
Location: Connecticut

Re: Another CliShay Build

Post by jeanluc83 » Thu Jan 02, 2020 8:31 pm

Thanks for the heads up. The inside of the coupler pocket is about 1 1/8" x 3/4". I was planing on using Tom Bee couplers. The website lists the shank as 15/16" x 0.725" so I should be okay. They also come undrilled so I can adjust the length if I need to.

I wasn't really planning on ordering the couplers quite yet but I guess I'll be getting a set so I can check the fit.

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makinsmoke
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Location: Texas Hill Country

Re: Another CliShay Build

Post by makinsmoke » Fri Jan 03, 2020 10:36 pm

Machined per print the Allen coupler pocket will accept a Tom Bee solid shank coupler. No side play, but there is room on the shank and pocket to take some material to give you some play.

Brian

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ChipsAhoy
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Location: Arizona

Re: Another CliShay Build

Post by ChipsAhoy » Sat Jan 04, 2020 7:21 am

jeanluc83 wrote:
Mon Dec 09, 2019 6:07 pm
I posted my progress over at the Backyard Railroading Facebook group and had a question about have the transmission works.
z

We have found that If building the Big Bertha replacement engine, there is no need for the transmition. One can install a simple "Slush Box" type of clutch if you desire to run the engine while stationary, we are contemplating that virtue right now on our build.
Scotty

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