The Home Machinist!

A couple more pix of progress

Hi Gary,

Really well done. Congratulations.

I work on the promised translation. You will get it soon.

Best regards,
Hudson

Your work is first class all the way. I love the fabricated trailing truck. Awesome!

Harold, I think this belongs in the build logs....

Ken-

G'day Ken when I started this thread I did not know about the build log maybe somebody could tell me how to transfer it over
Regards Gary

kenrinc wrote:Your work is first class all the way. I love the fabricated trailing truck. Awesome!

Harold, I think this belongs in the build logs....

Ken-

Done!

Harold

Hi All a little more progress on the pony truck, just need to find some suitable material to make the leaf springs to complete the suspension then the wheels & axles to complete the assemby

Just pure awesome work, Looking forward to the wheels and axels to complete the pony. Vey nice

G'day All some progress on the boiler for the Hudson while waiting for materials for the pony truck made up a set of clamping rings
to hold the barrel while drilling & boring, temporary assembled & trial fitted the stays to check for clearances all ok still a little shaping on the inner fire box back plate then ready for soldering
Gary

Do these boilers run better with a brick arc and syphon tubes, or it does'nt really make a difference? What is the operating pressure?

Vr160 wrote:Do these boilers run better with a brick arc and syphon tubes, or it does'nt really make a difference? What is the operating pressure?

I think the design pressure for this R class boiler design is 620kPa (90psi) - or perhaps Gary has altered his design to suit the max allowable 720 kPa (100psi).
For loco's in 5'gauge, a 'Brick Arch' (really just a 5 - 6mm steel plate) does generally improve combustion in the firebox (extends flame length) - but syphon tubes no. The reason generally given for this is it makes the water too turbulent over the crown of the firebox; thus risking the ejection of water when the safety valves lift or carry over into the pipes of the steam manifold.
A nice long combustion chamber will ensure firebox gasses can burn completely, and with a large grate area sitting directly behind it - Gary's boiler should steam like a witch!
[ I should prob add I'm a one-eyed R class fan and have my own 5' model that currently only exists as a set of driving wheels ... ]

Thanks for the info R707. I too like the R class, well better add the J too I can't split them. The syphon tubes explanation make good sense. I was curious about the arch, I know on one of the NAs at Puffing billy they had a problem with a poor steaming boiler and they made a small adjustment to the brick arch and now you can't shut her up. Steams very well. Whats the reason behind the max 100psi in Australia but the US run I think at 120psi? Do you have any pics of your R?

The 100psi max working boiler pressure is entirely dictated by the AMBSC (Aust. Miniature Boiler Safety Code) - which is a set of design rules for designing a copper boiler and specificies an inspection and testing procedures by approved boiler inspectors. Its all about insurance - so a boiler built and certified to the code is covered. You can read more here; http://www.aals.asn.au/AMBSC/AMBSC.htm

As for progress on the R - its barely emerged from the drawing board...! https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1030 ... 0114574849

I do however run a forum called '3D Printing for Model Engineers' which (apologies for the FB link) which assists modellers with utilising 3D printing technology & invest cast parts for their build projects... https://www.facebook.com/groups/1415059758757262/