Building the 2.5" Scale Shay

[Soot n' Cinders]

Speeds and feeds,,,,, way to many variable to start throwing numbers out!!! the machine and its condition, workholding and set up, actual material, all plays into the #'s
best to start slow and work ones way up, dont want to see any colored chips! or any obnoxios sounds! if its screaming, its not happy either,,
best to ruff out the details, and use the tool just to finish, fastest, and most efficient way.
Grant

The machine is a 1950s SouthBend 13. It's in what I consider good condition mechanically (the thing basically only has the original metal primer left), given its history as an industrial machine used by GM. I will have to find a speed chart for it since it is a flat belt drive with a four step pulley cone. I can tell the rate of feed because its listed right on the gear box.

[gcarsen]

then that leaves the tool post, a rocker tool post will lead to problems!! use a quick change style, or turret style, way more rigid, and just enough tool sticking out to do the job. any more leads to chattering and problems.
Grant

You have my number, feel free to call!

[Soot n' Cinders]

My tool post is a wedge type, quick change. I had a lantern style (rocker) tool post on my Logan 11 and soon found out why they lost popularity. From what I've heard and seen watching Dave Sclavi's wheel video, around 80 RPM is good. From what I've read, my South Bend 13 will do 34, 54, 81, and 128 RPM in back gear and 239, 373, 567, and 875 RPM out of back gear.

[gcarsen]

I would start with the 54 rpm's. If I recall right, Dave has a far heavier machine,
Grant

[Soot n' Cinders]

Just wrapped up for the night, I got one wheel faced.

The freshly machined face

The profile of the wheel in the chuck

[kvom]

Cast iron machines very nicely in my limited experience, although the resulting black dust is messy. I bored the center axle hole in the same chucking as the first facing to ensure that it was perpendicular. I also followed Kozo's advice to face the back side first. The flange tool has a lot of resistance once it gets close to being fully engaged, so back gear and slow speed is needed.

[Fred_V]

I have to turn the chuck by hand to get the last of the chatter marks out. My machine won't go as slow as I would like.

[Soot n' Cinders]

I agree that cast iron machines nicely, despite the mess it makes. I put some rags over the ways to keep the dust out of the way oil. I was planning on drilling and boring the the wheel, but it was 10 pm when I finished facing. I don't have to worry about chatter, I was running at 54 rpm and feeding at .0017" per revolution. I figured I'd start slow.

[Soot n' Cinders]

Time for my next question. I need to ream the axel holes in the wheels to .750, but my tail stock drill chuck only holds up to 13mm (yes metric). How would you guys recommend holding the ream?

[DeMaxx]

I would turn the shank of the reamer down to 13mm.

[FLSTEAM]

Tristan

You can buy reams with MT to match you tail stock. Your tailstock likely has a No.3 Morris Taper or maybe No.4

John B.

[Soot n' Cinders]

Tristan

You can buy reams with MT to match you tail stock. Your tailstock likely has a No.3 Morris Taper or maybe No.4

John B.

We bought ours from Victor Machine and the only Morse Taper .750 ream was for a morse No. 2. And our tail stock has a No. 3