New Electric boxcab Project
Moderator: Harold_V
Re: New Electric boxcab Project
This is such a cool project!
Mattaniah Jahn
Matt Corps. Railsystems,
operating on the Manatee Central RR
http://www.flickr.com/photos/62441046@N06/sets/
Matt Corps. Railsystems,
operating on the Manatee Central RR
http://www.flickr.com/photos/62441046@N06/sets/
Re: New Electric boxcab Project
Im amazed at how fast this is all coming together! This looks like it will be a great locomotive! Are you going to paint it in the black paint scheme with the herald or are you going to go to the passenger paint scheme?
3/4" scale LBSC Bantam Cock
3/4" scale B4 project (re-designed LBSC Juliet)
- Stuart T. Harrod -
3/4" scale B4 project (re-designed LBSC Juliet)
- Stuart T. Harrod -
Re: New Electric boxcab Project
Stuie wrote:Im amazed at how fast this is all coming together! This looks like it will be a great locomotive! Are you going to paint it in the black paint scheme with the herald or are you going to go to the passenger paint scheme?
Stuie,
Thanks for the kind words
I'm lettering the engine for my own railroad which for now will be just the name and engine number.
I'm still undecided on how I'm going to paint the engine. I think all black with white lettering. though I have the idea of a dark green with black roof and under carriage would look pretty nice too.
Im leaning towards all gloss black. in conjunction I'm working on drawings for passenger cars, which will be olive green with black roof and under frame, not wanting my entire train looking the same, I think the black engine would stand out better. but its a long way off from painting, so we'll see.
as for the progress, I've done my fair share of designing and figuring out the easiest way to assemble the locomotive with my CAD parts and resources at hand. What is seen here, there is about 3 or 4 months of planning that was prior to the construction phase.
soon the trucks will be finished and i can start on the frame and body. im excited to get to the details as well, but trucks and a rolling chassis first.
if one takes their time and plans and researches whats out there, you can have a electric engine up and running in short order. That and Support from others from a club to bounce ideas back and forth has helped me in my adventure
cheers
Jason.S
you can see more on my facebook page dedicated to my build
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Willamett ... 3693254212
Re: New Electric boxcab Project
Wheels are in the 1st phase,
Axle holes are drilled. The lathe mounting plate is almost done.which will help in turning the wheel profile.
purchased some copper tubing for making the pilot as well
Fun times ahead
Cheers
Jason s
Axle holes are drilled. The lathe mounting plate is almost done.which will help in turning the wheel profile.
purchased some copper tubing for making the pilot as well
Fun times ahead
Cheers
Jason s
- Dick_Morris
- Posts: 2841
- Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 2:09 pm
- Location: Anchorage, AK
Re: New Electric boxcab Project
You might consider steel brake line tubing for more strength.purchased some copper tubing for making the pilot as well
Re: New Electric boxcab Project
Dick,
Thanks for the heads up on the brake line tubing. Will check into that this weekend.
Chris has been hard at work making chips.
The wheels are all bored, an now they have been trued up. Looking great!
Next step, wheel profile I believe.
Axle stock has been ordered, going with a 1.25” 1144 cold rolled round bar we opted for a heavier axle since the locomotive is projected to be fairly heavy, with lots of room for batteries, and other goodies.
Cheers
Jason s
Thanks for the heads up on the brake line tubing. Will check into that this weekend.
Chris has been hard at work making chips.
The wheels are all bored, an now they have been trued up. Looking great!
Next step, wheel profile I believe.
Axle stock has been ordered, going with a 1.25” 1144 cold rolled round bar we opted for a heavier axle since the locomotive is projected to be fairly heavy, with lots of room for batteries, and other goodies.
Cheers
Jason s
- steamin10
- Posts: 6712
- Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2003 11:52 pm
- Location: NW Indiana. Close to Lake Michigan S. tip
Re: New Electric boxcab Project
I cut freight wheels with a 1/2 inch bore a lot, and do it on the 3 jaw. Once the blanks are faced, drilled, and bored to GO-NO GO guage, I use a mandrel to finish the treads in this manner. The mandrel is an over sized bolt that is held by the threads to run a finish squaring cut up to the head, as bolts have a slight taper there. The squared up bolt is reversed in the chuck, and the head goes behind the jaws, such that when I cinch up the wheel, the jaw gives a barrier to pull against. The bolt is then cut off to remove whatever thread is left and get to the final length, (you DID get one long enough, Hmmm!) and a nice fine thread is cut on the stock with bit and die chaser. Teh mandrel is a tight fit, only two thou clearance, so it should drop right on, followed by a soft washer, and a nut. I have taken to using an extended thread, and a rod coupling, to reduce the wear on the threads, from the pressure of getting things tight. This is important, because if you snag the wheel, and it spins, you really mess up the finish and size. A pin can be put in the backside to satisfy the squeemish and metal hoggers that engage the chuck jaw.
I dont for freight wheels, but for a diesel or engine drivers, the last turning step is when they are mounted on axles and touched off betweeen centers for final truing and dimension. A hack like me can tollerate a few thou missed on a freight wheel set, if they arent good. So one set may be a few under than the next without notice. Not so locmotive wheels, where the mechanics require dead on sizes.
I dont for freight wheels, but for a diesel or engine drivers, the last turning step is when they are mounted on axles and touched off betweeen centers for final truing and dimension. A hack like me can tollerate a few thou missed on a freight wheel set, if they arent good. So one set may be a few under than the next without notice. Not so locmotive wheels, where the mechanics require dead on sizes.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
Re: New Electric boxcab Project
An once again Chris out did himself with the lathe work.
He dished out the spoke area on the wheels, which was a PITA before when we tried to do 5” spoked wheels, the on off cutting an vibration was a killer on the lathe. I told him no need to dish out the spoke area on these 8” wheels, but the man did it, an they look great!
Since the wheels are in the inside of the frame I wasn't to concerned with the wheels looking perfect, but he did it anyway, will help in painting. I think a coat of gloss black, an some white rims will make these butties stand out.
Still waiting on the axle stock to arrive, then we proceed to mounting the wheels to the axle,.an turn the taper on the rims.
All going to plan!
Cheers
JasonS
He dished out the spoke area on the wheels, which was a PITA before when we tried to do 5” spoked wheels, the on off cutting an vibration was a killer on the lathe. I told him no need to dish out the spoke area on these 8” wheels, but the man did it, an they look great!
Since the wheels are in the inside of the frame I wasn't to concerned with the wheels looking perfect, but he did it anyway, will help in painting. I think a coat of gloss black, an some white rims will make these butties stand out.
Still waiting on the axle stock to arrive, then we proceed to mounting the wheels to the axle,.an turn the taper on the rims.
All going to plan!
Cheers
JasonS
Re: New Electric boxcab Project
Headed over to Chris' yesterday.
Didn't really work on anything, but we did some crucial shop talk on the build of the trucks. An the equalized suspension. I need to draw up a few parts for the suspension an have cut.
Put the wheels up against the trucks for the first time. Looking good.
Waiting on the axle stock an two sprockets to arrive before we can finish the wheel sets.
cheers
JasonS
Didn't really work on anything, but we did some crucial shop talk on the build of the trucks. An the equalized suspension. I need to draw up a few parts for the suspension an have cut.
Put the wheels up against the trucks for the first time. Looking good.
Waiting on the axle stock an two sprockets to arrive before we can finish the wheel sets.
cheers
JasonS
Re: New Electric boxcab Project
Jason,
Here's another box cab for your inspiration.
This was scratch built using the Karlson Model Products
(Cannonball) drive train (two sets) from their Little Mack around 1980.
The one in the B & O Museum was measured up for details.
It now has a pair of electric scooter motors
using the control from a Lincoln Bullet welder.
My trains do some useful work. We were moving wood
pellets to the shop for the stove on this winter day.
Kap
Here's another box cab for your inspiration.
This was scratch built using the Karlson Model Products
(Cannonball) drive train (two sets) from their Little Mack around 1980.
The one in the B & O Museum was measured up for details.
It now has a pair of electric scooter motors
using the control from a Lincoln Bullet welder.
My trains do some useful work. We were moving wood
pellets to the shop for the stove on this winter day.
Kap
Fadal Turn, Fadal Vmc 15, Prototrak 16 x 30 Cnc Lathe, Pratt and Whitney 16 x 54 lathe, Pratt and Whitney Vertical Shaper, G & E 16" Shaper, B & O Electric turret lathe, 36" Doall band saw,
Enco B.P. Clone, Bridgeport CNC Mill, Delta 12" Surface Grinder.
Enco B.P. Clone, Bridgeport CNC Mill, Delta 12" Surface Grinder.
Re: New Electric boxcab Project
Well I had already bought Cooper tubing before the suggestion for steel brake line was offered.
So I went ahead an tried out my pilot making skills.
Using my full size drawings, I cut and bent the tubing. Then drilled the mounting holes to mount to the base
not bad for a first time builder at it. I need to clean up the tubes with a file still have one more tube to cut an bend in the photo.
The upper parts of the tube just bolt to angle iron on the truck frame.
Cheers
Jason
So I went ahead an tried out my pilot making skills.
Using my full size drawings, I cut and bent the tubing. Then drilled the mounting holes to mount to the base
not bad for a first time builder at it. I need to clean up the tubes with a file still have one more tube to cut an bend in the photo.
The upper parts of the tube just bolt to angle iron on the truck frame.
Cheers
Jason
Re: New Electric boxcab Project
After getting a load of bovine excrement on Facebook page on the craftsman work on the ends of the tubing, which I wasn't quite finished, cleaning up the job, I did one tube to show the ” gang” what these babies should look like when done.
Also I made the bracket for the conduit that hangs under the frame.
I made some cuts into a scrap chunk plywood , purchased some 0.50” wide brass that was as thin as the hobby shop had, laid out some 1/8” welding Rod, an place brass over rod, lining up the notches in the ply, an gave it a good whack with a hammer. The brass molded over the rod. I will then mount theses with rivets to some 1/2” wide steel that will hang down from the frame.
The brass model just has the conduit mounted to a angled mount through drilled holes (see picture) which is incorrect compared to photographs.
cheers
Jason s
Also I made the bracket for the conduit that hangs under the frame.
I made some cuts into a scrap chunk plywood , purchased some 0.50” wide brass that was as thin as the hobby shop had, laid out some 1/8” welding Rod, an place brass over rod, lining up the notches in the ply, an gave it a good whack with a hammer. The brass molded over the rod. I will then mount theses with rivets to some 1/2” wide steel that will hang down from the frame.
The brass model just has the conduit mounted to a angled mount through drilled holes (see picture) which is incorrect compared to photographs.
cheers
Jason s