Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4

[SilverSanJuan]

Nice work! It is good to have a little reminder. It's gonna be a great lookin locomotive.

Todd

[Pipescs]

Looking for a Snifting Valve drawing to use on the Rust Bucket. Does anyone have a recommendation ?

[Fender]

Here's a link to a previous discussion on this subject:
http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/vie ... it=snifter

[Pipescs]

Ok

The link told me that I need to find a copy on the Snifter Article by Glen Lewis in LS Vol. 36 No. 4 July-Aug 2002.

It seems there may be drawings attached.

[Pipescs]

Got it

[Pipescs]

I am continuing to close out the work on the Main Driver Equalizing changes. Mostly painting and pinning it all in place.

The next thing I am addressing is to go thru all the work completed to date and make sure it is complete with no loose to haunt me later.

So as I am going thru the frame looking for loose bolts and unfinished items I have decided to start with the previously noted problem with a large amount of slop in the valve gear. When the engine is sitting still you can slide the D Block back and forth almost an eighth of an inch. I believe this is causing some of the problem due to the block not traveling its full trave

While the engine runs on air; it does not do it well. It will run while in forward or reverse, but will stop if the bar is moved even the smallest amount of travel off full.

At every link in the valve chain there is slop. I have decided to start at the axles and work toward the steam chest.

I am starting here at the Expansion Link and Die Block (English Names). It calls for little or no clearance but it checks at .018 with a feeler gauge. There is also slop in every one of the bushings and pins.

Ian, in England, has been kind enough to send me all the drawings for the parts.

This is the die block.

I have it in my mind to use a fixture on a rotary table to mill the radius. Of course any one with experience can jump in here with a good method.

[Pipescs]

Well further research reviled where part of the problem lies. When I purchased the pile of parts I found three Expansion Links. Two matched with one slightly different one. The original owner of the rust bucket, who now lives in Texas told me that he had two new ones made that were somewhat stronger than the originals, being made of a hardened steel. There is also a .014 increase in the slot width. The Die Block fits tight in the original link.

So I will be going with a new block. As I tore it down I find all the pins in the linkage are also mild steel with brass bushings that are extremely loose fitting.

Newbie Question:

What would be a good, easy to machine, steel I can harden in my shop after machining?

What is a good bearing bronze for the new bushings and die block?

[Fender]

4140 pre-hardened steel is easily machinable with hss, and is already harder than mild steel. Or you can use soft 4140 and harden it after machining by heating red hot, and plunging into oil.

[Peter Crisler]

What would be a good, easy to machine, steel I can harden in my shop after machining?

What is a good bearing bronze for the new bushings and die block?

You might consider using ejector pins since they are .0003"/.0006" under nominal size on diameter and they are case hardened which is .005" to .008" thick and is 70 on the C scale. They are usually made from H13 hot work tool steel and the core is down to 40 on the C scale so you can drill and tap. For cross holes, a little work with a Dremel tool gets thru the case. For bearings, it ain't the easiest stuff to work with, but AMPCO 18 will outlast you and your grandkids.

[Pipescs]

The Rust Bucket now sits on her wheels.

Everyone is telling me to tow it around the track to ensure the trailing and leading truck are going to track right. I thought I would weld up a cradle to put a piece of ten inch pipe on top of it for weight and add a coupler to pull it with.

As I don't know anyone with a 2.5 scale engine to pull it, I have decided to rig up a temporary 1.5 scale coupler to the front plate currently on the engine. This plate is temporary too as I plan on replacing it with an oak one.

Question is: What is the height to mount a 1.5 inch coupler above the track to be able to match up with an engine.

[FLSTEAM]

It will pull better if you turn the coupler right side up......

JB

[Pipescs]

You Know. I thought about that when I posted the photo. But I knew you guys would be nice and not mention it.

So How high do I position it above the track. I assume the height mounted is track to centerline.