The Home Machinist!

The brake/clutch material should arrive here today from McMaster Carr and I have J.B Weld on the shelf. Has anyone had experience with the bonding process? Do I need to do anything other than clean the surfaces?

When I bonded the brake material to the metal shoes, I drilled 3 shallow depressions 1/8" wide in the shoe surface and then JB Weld bonded the material. The depressions provide shear strength to the bond. Appropriate for their use while braking. Other than that, just start with clean surfaces.

The bonded shoe material has worked as desired. I can now lock up the drive wheels, which I was never able to do with metal-on-metal brakes. Of course, now I have to be more careful when applying the brakes to prevent lockup!
Progress.
~RN

Pipescs wrote:The brake/clutch material should arrive here today from McMaster Carr and I have J.B Weld on the shelf. Has anyone had experience with the bonding process? Do I need to do anything other than clean the surfaces?

Brake cleaner?

Could you rivet the brake shoe material to the brake?

Glenn

I discussed the rivet idea with a number of people who pretty much shot holes in it.

So tonight I finished turning the inside diameter of the ring and used J.B. Weld to stick it all together. I could have used a few more clamps.
This by the way is to make four brake shoes to go on the trailing truck. This will be a cable brake that is to be a back up brake for the steam powered brakes on the drivers.

Charlie
Could you have made a wooden plug to put in the middle and use a draw bolt thru the head stock. If you machined a 3 degree taper on the casting and do the same on the wooden plug allowing for the shoe material

I did give this serious thought and will try it next time. That would give more material to wear away.

Hey Dave Good to hear from you

Trainman4602 wrote:Charlie
Could you have made a wooden plug to put in the middle and use a draw bolt thru the head stock. If you machined a 3 degree taper on the casting and do the same on the wooden plug allowing for the shoe material

That may not work if the lining in use starts out as a straight piece and is not flexible, as it would have to be cut in a huge arc to compensate for the taper.

H

I have been giving that a thought also. you can buy the liner in sheets that would allow you to lay out the arc to work with the taper. I had not thought of the draw bar method that Dave mentioned. I will be making a few more brake shoes in the future so I may try it.

Why use a lining at all I generally use metal to metal works fine for years. I use aluminum for shoes won't ware out the wheel. The big problem with brakes are that most use steam and that is full boiler pressure say 100 plus pounds in the brake cylinder when you only need about 30 PSI to safely stop without locking up the wheels.

It appears that this was a success.

having turned the brass and cleaned it with Lacquer Thinner, I coated the brass with a thin film of JBW. Then I put a generous coat on the back of the brake banding.

After letting it dray for 24 hours I decided to try to turn it with the same carbide inserts I used to turn the brass. The JBW came off as a thin cut and the Banding came off as a powder. I used a boring bar to turn the inside to the 2.5 degrees to match the wheels

I kept making passes at .02 per pass until a spare wheel slipped into place.

This is after it came off the lathe.
it turned out to be a nice sliding fit.


Now I need to clean up the castings and drill the mounting hole in them before cutting them apart.

Shoes have come to a point of clean up. I am thinking I will make up the brake rigging with wood until I get the layout down.

I am kit bashing from the drawings done for the Lucky 7. This engine was designed by Don Young back in mid 1970 period and ran as a series of construction articles in the Live Steam magazine.