2-1/2" NG class A shay.

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Brian Hilgert
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Re: 2-1/2" NG class A shay.

Post by Brian Hilgert » Thu Sep 08, 2016 10:46 am

So I tried to sliver solder the pump cylinders to the bodies last night. The first one didn't go so well. I think that I finally got a good joint but it definitely did not flow like I wanted it too. I do not know if I didn't get it hot enough quick enough, or if I got it too hot, or if it was the solder that I used. The solder is Sil-fos. I do not know the make up. I was told it was good for Brass and bronze.
IMG_3698.JPG
After cleaning it up, the joint looked better than expected so it might work... but it was far from the nice little fillet that I wanted.

I changed to easy-flow 45 (or safety Silv 45, I'm not sure) for the second one. I had better results but again, still not the fillet I was hoping for.

I have to finish cleaning them up tonight and see what I need to do from there.

What happened to my nice shiny pieces. lol

Soot n' Cinders
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Re: 2-1/2" NG class A shay.

Post by Soot n' Cinders » Thu Sep 08, 2016 11:16 am

Brian, you may need more flux. I use safety-silv 45 for my silver solder and I found I need to use more of the white flux than I initially thought. Your parts don't look overheated, it looks like the flux got used up before the solder could flow correctly. It's easier to clean off excess flux residue than it is to redo that joint, that's my approach.
-Tristan

Projects
-2.5" scale Class A 20 Ton Shay

Brian Hilgert
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Re: 2-1/2" NG class A shay.

Post by Brian Hilgert » Thu Sep 08, 2016 12:32 pm

Thanks for the advice. I use the white paste flux from Harris. I try to goop it on but sometimes it seems to want to burn off before the solder melts. If I try to add more with an acid brush, sometimes it works and sometimes not. I guess I just have to experiment and practice.

Soot n' Cinders
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Location: Marietta, Georgia

Re: 2-1/2" NG class A shay.

Post by Soot n' Cinders » Thu Sep 08, 2016 2:16 pm

Brian Hilgert wrote:Thanks for the advice. I use the white paste flux from Harris. I try to goop it on but sometimes it seems to want to burn off before the solder melts. If I try to add more with an acid brush, sometimes it works and sometimes not. I guess I just have to experiment and practice.
I goop a lot of it on. And on a vertical piece like that, I put it going up about an inch from the joint so it'll flow down as the flux melts.
-Tristan

Projects
-2.5" scale Class A 20 Ton Shay

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Pennsy fan
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Re: 2-1/2" NG class A shay.

Post by Pennsy fan » Thu Sep 08, 2016 8:27 pm

Just FYI, Sil Fos is only for copper to copper only. But you can tin each side with silver solder then you can go over with Sil Fos. And with no flux.

Harold_V
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Re: 2-1/2" NG class A shay.

Post by Harold_V » Fri Sep 09, 2016 1:26 am

Brian Hilgert wrote:Thanks for the advice. I use the white paste flux from Harris. I try to goop it on but sometimes it seems to want to burn off before the solder melts. If I try to add more with an acid brush, sometimes it works and sometimes not. I guess I just have to experiment and practice.
You might consider using their black flux. It tolerates heat better, and works very well. I've used both and prefer the black.

Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

joneg
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Re: 2-1/2" NG class A shay.

Post by joneg » Wed Sep 14, 2016 11:29 am

I highly recommend the black flux over the white. It is much easier to remove after silver soldering than the white. You might want to try the safety-silv 56, i think it flows better than the 45
jon

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FLtenwheeler
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Re: 2-1/2" NG class A shay.

Post by FLtenwheeler » Wed Sep 14, 2016 11:45 am

I have better joints using the black flux.

Tim
He who dies with the most unfinished projects: Should of put more time into their hobby.

Brian Hilgert
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Re: 2-1/2" NG class A shay.

Post by Brian Hilgert » Mon Sep 19, 2016 10:08 am

Thanks everyone for all the advice, I do have some of the black flux, I will try it the next time around. I also just got a good amount of Safety Silv 45 from a friend for free. You can't beat that! I did not know that the Sil Fos was for copper to copper only. :( I wish I didn't use it but you live and learn. I might pressure test the joint to make sure it doesn't leak.

Brian Hilgert
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Re: 2-1/2" NG class A shay.

Post by Brian Hilgert » Mon Sep 19, 2016 10:28 am

Despite the silver soldering issues, The axle pumps are finished pending they pass a pressure test with out leaking at the solder joint. The next two pictures shows them all cleaned up ready for installation.
IMG_3700.JPG
IMG_3701.JPG
Axle pumps installed.
IMG_3702.JPG
IMG_3703.JPG
IMG_3704.JPG

Brian Hilgert
Posts: 232
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:35 am
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Re: 2-1/2" NG class A shay.

Post by Brian Hilgert » Mon Sep 19, 2016 10:45 am

Next it is onto the safely links for the brake beams.... I think these are safety links.

I just took a piece of steel at the length that I wanted and rounded the ends. This way all of the links are the same length.
IMG_3710.JPG
IMG_3711.JPG
Test mounting, I still need to soft solder the joints.
IMG_3706.JPG
IMG_3707.JPG
Sorry about the blurry pictures.

Brian Hilgert
Posts: 232
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:35 am
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Re: 2-1/2" NG class A shay.

Post by Brian Hilgert » Fri Oct 07, 2016 3:29 pm

I've been working on the gear covers, most of it is pretty simple. I bought the cheap Harbor Freight brake and it has worked very well for my needs. Using 18 gage steel, I got my friend, who has a nice little shear, to cut it to the correct width. I placed it on the brake and bent it 90 deg around a small dowel so that I did not bend around a sharp corner. I took a piece of scrap, thick walled, tubing and cut it in half. I placed it against the back side that was just bent and wrapped the sheet metal around the tubing by hand.
IMG_3777.JPG
Luckily, the diameter of the tubing worked perfectly, after spring back, the piece was pretty close to the designed radius.
IMG_3775.JPG
I had make another 90 deg bend, trim everything to the right length, and punch two hole for the mounting area.
IMG_3779.JPG
I still have to make little mounting brackets that get riveted to back side of the guards. I should have those finished tonight.
:mrgreen:

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