Temporary track

[jessebanning]

Good evening ladies and gents. I was asked if I could make a small loop/ oval track for 7.5" gauge for the holidays in the in-laws back yard. I was curious what has been used. Is 1/2" X 1" flat bar ideal? The price on flat bar versus aluminum track is almost the same (around $1.00/foot). I was hoping to have installed by 19 December.

[Steggy]

Good evening ladies and gents. I was asked if I could make a small loop/ oval track for 7.5" gauge for the holidays in the in-laws back yard. I was curious what has been used. Is 1/2" X 1" flat bar ideal? The price on flat bar versus aluminum track is almost the same (around $1.00/foot). I was hoping to have installed by 19 December.

In my opinion, 1/2 inch thick bar is too thick and will be a bear to work with. 1/4 inch thick hot rolled steel should be more than adequate, relatively easy to form and inexpensive to purchase. This so-called groovy track is used by quite a few people, so you will be in good company.

[gwrdriver]

Jesse,
A while back I inherited a small loop of 7.5"ga track which is heavy aluminum rail laid on treated pine ties screwed to a plywood base. I haven't used it but the fellow who built it built it to last. Too bad it's half a continent away or for you a deal I got. I'm away from home at the moment but I'll post a photo soon.

[boaterri]

British Columbia Society of Model Engineers had an article on their temporary Christmas track which I downloaded that would be just what you are looking for. Unfortunately I can't get the photos to load from my hard drive.

If you contact them they probably can send you a copy of the article.

Rick

[chooch]

I would agree here with BBD for the use of 1/4 inch flat bar.

But as for bending, I would like to add this regards other type rail material.
I hand bend 1-1/2 size Aluminum rail by hand for 30 foot radius. Yes, it takes a " little" practice to get it Close--not Perfect--as you can pull it around pretty easy to what you want when fastening it to ties. The Curved ends can be shaped with a large Cresent wrench or Vise grips and a foot and hammer against the rail to make a smooth curve joint.
I believe the same with 1/4 flat will work as I have also done the same with 1/2 x 1 inch steel channel.
Hold the rail, any type, up at one end and see the NATURAL curve. Just press the rail down a Little bit about every couple feet to curve it as you want. A few times and you will learn the right, easy way to hand bend your rail--steel or Aluminum. Too much curve or straight spot, Hand or hammer and foot against that place will fix it. Practice, Practice is the word.

Will the Aluminum rail twist, not lay Flat as it is bent, Yes it will some but, a couple 8/10 crecent wrenches or 10 inch vise grips every so often along the rail Pulling (Twisting) in Opposite directions a little bit apart will straighten out the curved twist so the rail will lay flat.

This might sound quite difficult, especially for Aluminum rail but, really quite easy and once you do it a few times it is pretty quick. I have never used a Rail Bender for many, many feet of curved track.
Hope this helps.

Thank you.
chooch

Good evening ladies and gents. I was asked if I could make a small loop/ oval track for 7.5" gauge for the holidays in the in-laws back yard. I was curious what has been used. Is 1/2" X 1" flat bar ideal? The price on flat bar versus aluminum track is almost the same (around $1.00/foot). I was hoping to have installed by 19 December.

In my opinion, 1/2 inch thick bar is too thick and will be a bear to work with. 1/4 inch thick hot rolled steel should be more than adequate, relatively easy to form and inexpensive to purchase. This so-called groovy track is used by quite a few people, so you will be in good company.

[NP317]

See this IBLS article:
http://ibls.org/mediawiki/index.php/Groovy_Track
~RN

[Greg_Lewis]

Ken Schroeder has some track (not temporary) made from 1/2 x 1 tube. Light weight and easy to join as you just stick a piece of bar into the tube at each joint making alignment easy. Dave Rohr made some like that for a parade but I think he used square tube. The joints were set up with alternating pins sort of like HO gauge snap track. We leapfrogged the sections down the street as he chugged along. We on the track crew must have looked like a cross between the Three Stooges and Laurel and Hardy, but we all made it to the end of the parade route without a derailment!

[steamin10]

I have made some temp track for 1.5 out of 1x1 sq tube, and 1/2 x 1 light channel. I like the channel the best, and used 2" channel about 14-16 inch for cross ties. The advantage is no wood to move, so it is quite a bit lighter than aluminum and wood panels.

I welded two 2" pipe stubs to a plate, and anchored this to a big wood round I had, and that became the bender. by putting the bar between the two pipes and tweeking it by eye I had the leverage to easily bend the long channels into a pleasing curve. A couple of 2x4s with notches, made a gauge to weld things in place without chasing the spacing. I worked on temporary plywood, that allowed me to screw things in place, and then stitch weld everything. Pretty simple, fast, and not too expensive. (I happened to pick up a quantity of channel for free. Some pretty rusty, but hey, free is good.)

[chooch]

I would have to wonder about using Square Tubing and the method of Bending it compared to steel angle, flat bar, channel iron and Aluminum rail. Also (respectfully) using 1/2 x 1 for rail and 2" channel for ties. Plus the need for welding. I opinion the same size channel could be used for both rail and ties.(unless All was free).

If using channel or flat bar rail, 3/4 or 1" Angle iron might be used for cross ties. More work than welding but, small pieces of angle could be Bolted to Both the tie and rail

Nothing said for tie spacing. If-IF, you make track sections by their own using Aluminum rail with Wood ties I suggest drilling holes IN the rail and screw it to the Wooden ties. A more "Solid, Firm" build and held to gauge better when moving Portable Temporary track. Tie spacing, I personally would try 12" on Center for lighter switcher locos or, heavier (GP) type locos, adding a tie 6 inches on center should be a good Temporary track.

I would NOT use a wooden panel under the track. The ground might not be that level and I think an Under panel would not only add weight and cost to track panels but, be much harder to have more smooth track joints. A simple track panel could be blocked up as needed more easily in my opinion. Remember, the longer the track panel, no matter how it is built, the harder and heavier it is to move by one (like myself) or more persons.

I Use 1/8th x 1/2" x 4" long steel flat bar for rail joints on my steel channel and Aluminum rail railroad, on the Outside only, I think that is sufficient for a home track. For a temporary /portable track I think I would go to Six" joiners just to be more comfortable. I use 3/16 (10/24) cadmium plated bolts and nuts with a lock washer, nut on the Inside of the rail.
Hope this helps.
chooch

[Greg_Lewis]

One of the first products of RMI when it began was stamped metal crossties, copied after prototype ones used for mine and construction short and temporary lines. I see that they're still avail. from RMI. Might be worth a look.

[Ken Schroeder]

As Greg mentioned I have some track made out of 1/2 x 1 rectangular tubing. It has worked great for at least 20 years and the nice thing about it is that it has a radius on the corner that won't cut into the wheels like rectangular bar. Another thing that is nice is that the ties were drilled on a drill press for self drilling screws that were used to fasten the ties to the tubing, fairly fast to make up panels. With a roller you could curve the tubing.

Ken

[Harold_V]

the nice thing about it is that it has a radius on the corner that won't cut into the wheels like rectangular bar.

Hot rolled flat bar generally has a radius on the corners, so it's a reasonable choice. One is well served to select which corner is used against the flange, as they often are not dead uniform in size. Cold rolled tends towards sharp corners. If memory serves, both the Pacific Northwest Live Steamers and the track in Burnaby (B.C., Canada) use 3/8" bar, with slots in the ties to maintain proper gauge.

Harold