Tender Tank
Tender Tank
Hi, I am looking for some input on building a large tender in 1 1/2" scale. My plan is to use brass, but I don't know what thickness of brass to use. I was thinking of using around .030 thick, with good bracing. I am looking to use 260 alloy. Thanks
- Bill Shields
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Re: Tender Tank
I would use something thicker...1/16 or 1/8
the thin stuff, that size, is very difficult to keep flat..
it is also a bear to paint
the thin stuff, that size, is very difficult to keep flat..
it is also a bear to paint
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Tender Tank
I used 0.060 for the sides and 0.090 for the top and bottom and 0 ss drive screws for the rivets driven into 1/2" square brass bar in the corners.
John
John
Last edited by lrdg2150 on Mon Aug 22, 2016 12:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Tender Tank
Drive screws will loosen in time, they may work for attaching small parts but I would not use them for structural applications.
3/23" diameter rivets are the right size for most tenders.
Design the tender with baffles that run top to bottom right to left and front to back. The baffles will keep the water from sloshing inside the tank. By making the baffles go to the underside of the top, they will support the top.
3/23" diameter rivets are the right size for most tenders.
Design the tender with baffles that run top to bottom right to left and front to back. The baffles will keep the water from sloshing inside the tank. By making the baffles go to the underside of the top, they will support the top.
- Dick_Morris
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Re: Tender Tank
I used SS drive screws in my SS tender. I think they were #2 or #3. Seams used a Loctite industrial adhesive and all the drive screws got a drop of Loctite wicking thread sealer after they were put in place. Only time will tell how well it will hold up, but so far, so good.
Re: Tender Tank
After you get a price for brass you will probably be back here asking what other metal is OK for a tender!!!
Fred V
Pensacola, Fl.
Pensacola, Fl.
- Bill Shields
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Re: Tender Tank
CRS is just fine.
powder coat it and forget it
powder coat it and forget it
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Tender Tank
You may want to consider using a 400-series stainless rather than brass. These are more economical than either brass or the 300-series SS. Also, they are easier to drill than the 300-series, and have much greater corrosion resistance than mild steel.
Dan Watson
Chattanooga, TN
Chattanooga, TN
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Re: Tender Tank
Look onto "Galvaneal" (sp?) steel. Cold rolled steel with a paintable zinc finish.
- Greg_Lewis
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Re: Tender Tank
The late, great, Bob Reedey used 20 ga. steel for a tender in one of his construction articles in Live Steam. Anyone who has seen his work knows he knew what he was doing. It's cheap, easy to work, and plenty strong when properly braced. Painted on the outside and coated with gas tank sealer on the inside and it will be just fine.
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
- Dick_Morris
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- Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 2:09 pm
- Location: Anchorage, AK
Re: Tender Tank
My CP-173 tender has fairly short sides which are made from .030" SS. 16ga square SS tube "ripped" into quarters on a shop built table on the horizontal metal cutting band saw was used for angles at the corners and to attach a baffle which provides additional support to the top and sides. Source of sheet material for the sides was a floor ash tray that was being disposed of from the local jail. Tender top and bottom were a couple of thicker SS scraps that came from a someone who worked for a friendly local railroad. (Oddly, both happened to be exactly the right size. )
When my side-by-side fridge died a few years ago I used a cut-off wheel in an angle grinder and saved the outer door panels. They are about .040" SS and if I build another tender that's what I'll use. Dishwasher doors are another source for a flat SS plate.
For the cab on my Consolidation, the sides of an old file cabinet have been cut out and are being held in reserve. It's painted, galvanized steel.
Pieces of 1-1/4" square tubing from fiber optic cable reals were cut apart and have been used for an number of things, including an engine stand and when ripped in half and welded back to back are about the right size for an I beam for a tender frame.
If you use a little creativity there are cheap alternatives for material.
When my side-by-side fridge died a few years ago I used a cut-off wheel in an angle grinder and saved the outer door panels. They are about .040" SS and if I build another tender that's what I'll use. Dishwasher doors are another source for a flat SS plate.
For the cab on my Consolidation, the sides of an old file cabinet have been cut out and are being held in reserve. It's painted, galvanized steel.
Pieces of 1-1/4" square tubing from fiber optic cable reals were cut apart and have been used for an number of things, including an engine stand and when ripped in half and welded back to back are about the right size for an I beam for a tender frame.
If you use a little creativity there are cheap alternatives for material.
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Re: Tender Tank
What do guys use to seal a tender?