Equalizer Fulcrum Machining Help

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Harold_V
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Location: Onalaska, WA USA

Re: Equalizer Fulcrum Machining Help

Post by Harold_V » Sat Sep 03, 2016 3:42 pm

Dale Grice wrote:I thought about a shaper or slotting head. No experience with a slotter, except in theory. But since I have neither....
Ahh, but you do, at least if you have a vertical mill with a quill, something I commonly reference as a "drop spindle" mill. You know, like your Bridgeport!

By mounting your piece parallel, you can fashion a tool that can be used by stroking the quill. Feed by table and saddle. It works---it's just slow.

Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

hudson
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Re: Equalizer Fulcrum Machining H

Post by hudson » Mon Sep 05, 2016 7:02 am

Hi,

Another homepage showing the different steps of machining the Equalizer Fulcrum is:

http://www.karlkobel.com/Chassis/equali ... ation.html

By clicking on "For further details" you will get more information.

Hope this helps.

Best regards,
Hudson

NB. The End Mill recommended by cbrew could reduce the chatter See Video:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZEM6ny2h1ZY

KarlKobel
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Re: Equalizer Fulcrum Machining Help

Post by KarlKobel » Mon Sep 05, 2016 11:08 am

Hi Hudson and all,

Thanks for the mention.

Dale,
If you want to follow my method, I can make the fixturing (sp) available to you.
I have done that in the past and will continue to do so if I get them back.

Karl

Dale Grice
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Location: Stone Mountain, GA

Re: Equalizer Fulcrum Machining Help

Post by Dale Grice » Wed Sep 07, 2016 4:53 pm

Hi Karl,

Offering your fixturing is very kind. I think I will take you up on it. But it looks like I still need to use a 5" long end mill. Do you remember if you used 2 or 4 flute, HSS or Carbide. I will send you a P.M.

Thanks,

Dale
Projects:

1.6 CB&Q O1a Mikado
1.6 CB&Q NE7 Waycar

12" to the foot ALCO S1

KarlKobel
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Re: Equalizer Fulcrum Machining Help

Post by KarlKobel » Wed Sep 07, 2016 5:05 pm

Dale,

If memory serves (it keeps getting harder), it was a 4 flute HSS.
Carbide seems like it would be too brittle at that length (and expensive).

Karl

jpfalt
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Re: Equalizer Fulcrum Machining Help

Post by jpfalt » Wed Sep 07, 2016 11:37 pm

This is the cutter I use for the type of work you are doing. It's a shell mill arbor with a spacer and collar to mount a slotting saw.
Attachments
slot mill1.jpg
slot mill 2.jpg

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Trainman4602
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Re: Equalizer Fulcrum Machining Help

Post by Trainman4602 » Thu Sep 08, 2016 2:44 am

WHY EVEN MACHINE IT AT ALL

This looks to be a railroad warehouse LOST WAX part I have several of them.If I were you I would fit the hanger to the casting and don't machine that area at all.
ALLWAYS OPERATING MY TRAIN IN A SAFE MANNER USING AUTOMATIC AIR BRAKES

Dale Grice
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Location: Stone Mountain, GA

Re: Equalizer Fulcrum Machining Help

Post by Dale Grice » Tue Dec 13, 2016 11:03 am

Here's my solution and setup. I purchased some R8 end mill holders. For the deeper pocket, I made an extension and reamed the hole for the end mill. I used a 2 flute carbide end mill, running at around what mild CRS speed would be with flood cooling. For the shallow pocket I used a reduced shank carbide end mill. I would take 0.020 to 0.030 x 0.100 deep cuts for either pocket.

The castings bolted to my block allowed me to do three at a time and do both pockets in one setup. Note that I do have the "top" of the castings "blocked" or jacked up on the top of the vice.
Attachments
2016-11-26 11.08.49 AM reduced.jpg
2016-11-26 11.09.04 AM reduced.jpg
2016-11-26 12.04.27 PM reduced.jpg
Projects:

1.6 CB&Q O1a Mikado
1.6 CB&Q NE7 Waycar

12" to the foot ALCO S1

McReef
Posts: 4
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Location: New England

Re: Equalizer Fulcrum Machining Help

Post by McReef » Fri Dec 16, 2016 2:13 pm

cbrew wrote:just a quick search on google, and i found this,
750-2-Uncoated-HTC.png
http://www.the-carbide-end-mill-store.c ... -2508.html

now i did not search for a cutter specifically for silicon bronze, but it may just do the trick
Yup. ^ What he said. ^ Long flutes are your enemy if you don't need them. Carbide would help, so would low rpm when a tool hangs out that far.

I also like the recommendation to lay the part down and remove what you can with a shorter tool. Do you have a surface grinder? If so I might consider fashioning a broach, then you could finish it all from the side. Heck, depending on how much you had to remove (that casting looks pretty nice) you may be able to do it all with a nice stout square broach.
- Dave R.

Always on the lookout for another over-the-top and completely unreasonable project.

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