Driver Tire Shrink Fit

[Pontiacguy1]

Some ways to get your steel tire blanks...
(1) Get a local shop to water jet cut them out of a drop of 1" thick hot rolled plate. This works good, and you can make any tire size you need with it. You're not restricted to pipe sizes and mechanical tubing sizes that are available.
(2) Get some mechanical tubing, or thick wall pipe, from a place like speedy metals. This place will sell it by the foot, or by the inch, so you can actually order the tubing or pipe cut into 1" sections, which are just right for steel tires in 1 1/2" scale. You can also buy a section of pipe, and machine tires off the end of them, parting them off after you make the profile.
I've used all of the methods described above, and they all have their advantages and disadvantages.
I have never tried the Loctite method, always put them on by shrinking them on. Have never had a problem with any of the tires I put on that way.

[cbrew]

I used DOM tubing for all my tires, i buy them from speedy metals.com
because the size of our tires,
it is just as easy to hit the number for a shrink fit. then it is to hit the right number for retaining compound. i am just a mere code monkey and would not consider myself a machinist.
I also would only use true retaining compound and not a cheap thread locker like Permatex.
I use loctite 680 for wheels to axles on running stock, and the only way to get the wheels off is to heat the wheel with a propane weed burner.
http://www.speedymetals.com/c-8242-round-tube.aspx

just my two cents

[Rich_Carlstedt]

I also used heavy DOM for my tires.
D.O.M. Tubing is steel tube that is drawn over a mandrel (thusDOM) and has a very smooth and round ID and constant size
Some pipes (not common fortunately ) have a weld seam on the inside so DOM is a good choice "IF" you can get your size .
A shrink fit is not only twice as strong as a press, but easier I believe.
First, to maximize thermal sizes, put your wheels in the freezer and get them down to zero.
If you are nervous, do not handle a hot tire, instead heat it with a propane torch till it is hot all over,
One trick is to mark a line with a felt tip marker. The line will suddenly lighten or dissapear when the temp hits 450 degrees F
Have the tire on three firebricks to support it and allow you to play the flame on the ring with one or two torches. I suggest you have the tire clamped down so it does not move....except to grow
Then take the cold wheel and drop it in the center. be sure you have a stop set so the wheel and tire meet exactly where you want.
This method means not having to handle a super hot tire.
To figure your shrink, multiply your steel tire diameter (ID ) by .0000063 ( called "5 ball63) to get the diameter expansion per degree F.
To get a quick idea, use 3 ball 63 to get what 100 Degrees does.
So a 8 inch driver X.00063= .005 " that means you get 5 thousandths change for each 100 degrees.
If you freeze the wheels ( 0 F) and heat the tire to 500 you have a .025" difference. Use .008 for fit and you will have .017" clearance.
If that is not enough, go to 600.

Rich

[jscarmozza]

Thanks for the tips!
John

[Fred_V]

I have used the Loctite method with success. I used the 680 bearing mount.

[FLtenwheeler]

I would like to thank everyone for their input. I plan on going with a shrink fit and machine the tires to profile before installing them. I will use pie jaws.

Tim

[KarlKobel]

Hi cbrew, fellow code monkey.

I can't add anymore to the already fine advice, but here are some of my process pictures.

http://www.karlkobel.com/Wheels/Tires/Tires.html

http://www.karlkobel.com/Wheels/HeatShr ... Tires.html

Karl

[FLtenwheeler]

I finally shrunk the tires on to the driver centers. I heated the tires to 550 Degrees F with a 0.008 fit. Everything went well. The axle hole shrunk 0.0015" I had to resize my mandrel to fit.

Thanks for everyone's help

Tim