Suggested approaches for dual gage drivier axles or wheels

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10 Wheeler Rob
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Suggested approaches for dual gage drivier axles or wheels

Post by 10 Wheeler Rob »

I have an Allen Ten Wheeler built in 7 1/4" gage. When I built it I moved the cylinders out 1/8" on each side and extended the length of the crank pin to match. This was done to allow for regaging to 7 1/2".

I am getting a winter place in Florida and would like to have a relatively easy method to regage it back and forth. Regaging the pilot and tender axles is straight forward with pressing on and off wheels with addition of 1/8" spacers. So the question comes down to what to due with the main drivers. Options seem to be:

1. make a second set of axles and repress drivers off and on each year. Which dose not seem attactive to me.

2. Make a complete set of axles and drivers for both gages and swap in and out.

3. Put tires on the drivers that are threaded to 8 or 16 threads per inch with Dutchman set screws for locking which would allow regaging in place. I also have work out rod clearances if the tires stick out in 7 1/2" gage.

Any thoughts as what others have used for easy dual gage meathods, and how sucessful threaded tires have worked for others?

Rob
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PRR5406
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Re: Suggested approaches for dual gage drivier axles or wheels

Post by PRR5406 »

Regarding option #3, my A5a Camelback was refitted like this by a previous owner. I have had three separate events when the screws have worn/eaten through, and the driver tires have spun off, wreaking havoc. You can go with this option, but think it out carefully. I recommend you stick to a single gauge.
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cbrew
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Re: Suggested approaches for dual gage drivier axles or wheels

Post by cbrew »

4: what about going with a blind center driver so you do you not have to pull the eccentrics apart. then you just need to swap #1 and #3 axles, and have a second lead truck to swap out
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ccvstmr
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Re: Suggested approaches for dual gage drivier axles or wheels

Post by ccvstmr »

10wheeler...Shayloco (an occasional contributor here)...believed he solved the dual gauge issue by turning the driver hubs flat and machining flanged tires flat on the ID to create a "loose fit". A series of set screws around the perimeter of the wheel/tire are used to move the tire in/out. Only have to move each side in/out 1/8". Doesn't impact the crankpins, rods or other...as long as you have the clearance on the wheel face to the back of the rods...and on the back side to the frame. Never seen the setup...but it sounds simple enough for those that want to run either gauge. Would have to take the necessary precautions to prevent rust between wheel/tire. Does that help? Carl B.
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shayloco
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Re: Suggested approaches for dual gage drivier axles or wheels

Post by shayloco »

ccvstmr wrote:10wheeler...Shayloco (an occasional contributor here)...believed he solved the dual gauge issue by turning the driver hubs flat and machining flanged tires flat on the ID to create a "loose fit". A series of set screws around the perimeter of the wheel/tire are used to move the tire in/out. Only have to move each side in/out 1/8". ... Carl B.
Not me.

I made the threaded on tires that PRR5406 mentions above. That is a very successful and easy to adjust gauge method. If there are problems with the setscrew(s) coming loose then Loctite would be the solution. I would suggest two 10-32 set screws with Loctite per wheel and check the screws often to make sure all is OK. That is assuming the threaded on tires use a 8 or 16 pitch thread.

On my Climax and Shay I use threaded on wheels with keys but that can't be used on a rod locomotive.

Recently started using a different method of making rolling stock axles/wheels dual gauge without having to press wheels on and off. This method will work with outside bearing trucks but could also be adapted to leading/trailing trucks with inside bearings. Send me a PM if you are interested and I will find my photos.

-Shayloco (Larry)
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shayloco
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Re: Suggested approaches for dual gage drivier axles or wheels

Post by shayloco »

PRR5406 wrote:I recommend you stick to a single gauge.
That would be a terrible waste of a locomotive as making it dual gauge is not difficult. There are so many very interesting 7-1/2" gauge tracks that those who stay at 7-1/4" are really missing out.

-Larry
ccvstmr
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Re: Suggested approaches for dual gage drivier axles or wheels

Post by ccvstmr »

Larry...my bad. Sorry. You might explain your approach. Wheel/tire clearances. And if you do anything to keep wheel and tire from seizing. As you noted...there's lots of tracks "out there". No need to limit oneself to 7.25" gauge tracks only. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
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