Equalizing springs

[Kevin Mey]

Greetings,
For an equalizing spring system on a Locomotive , is it necessary to use proper leaf springs or could they solid, as in cast dummy springs?
Regards,
Kevin

[Bill Shields]

it is like asking "how long is a piece of string"

if you are on a very smooth, flat track....

If the track is very rough, then you may well want springs. Of particular concern are mis-matched rail joints that can get things to 'bounce'...especially in the smaller gauges.

my little 3/4" 0-4-0 is locked solid on one axle with just a little travel on the other - and it does fine.

the 2-8-0 in 1-1/2 is equalized and does have about 1/8" of travel in the springs / axle boxes...and uses 1/2 of it just sitting there -> and it also does fine....on most tracks, although I have been on tracks where derails did happen.

Loco I am currently building will have very stiff springs to start so that I can take a few leaves out (or add a few) if necessary.

I know...big help...

[cbrew]

as long as the loco is fully equalized, you can get get away with solid "fake" spring assemblies,
I build my Allen ten wheeler this way and it handles rough track just fine. that said, with my hand resting on the cab roof as i am running it, i can feel every joint, she ride rough.

i am getting ready to shop her and do some major changes and one of those is to add live springs.

[Kevin Mey]

Thank you, I'll go the "real" spring route.
Regards,
Kevin

[johnpenn74]

Kevin,
You are asking two different questions. Springs are there to take up the shock (Impulse) and irregularity of the track, that is to keep you glued to the track. Equalization is there to 1) distribute the locomotive rail loading and ultimately 2) reduce frictional losses because of too much weight on a single axle. An equalized engine will pull more then an unequalized.

Ignore the fake spring equalizers. You could get away with them if you are going SLOW, that is the engine isn't bouncing and gyrating down and the suspension can react to the changes. If you are going faster then a dip reduces the time for the mechanics of the system to react. IE, you hit a bump or dip and you start slipping.

Toss the castings, do the math on your springs and you'll have an engine that can actually pull vs slipping all over the place.

Another issue you should resolve is the poor design of the inadequate spring to saddle rocker. If the springs don't rock and pivot on the saddle, then they don't equlize correctly.

Lastly, there the 4-4-0 drawing set shows a tie in the suspension to the frame with no coil. Horrible idea, as it restricts the travel of the journal too much and makes the engine slippery. The bolt is also impossible to remove without taking the boiler off. Bad...

See my thread on this here.
L.E. American & tractive effort?


JP

[Kevin Mey]

Hi JP,

Thank you. I am busy bending the necessary springs.
Once again thank you all for the information.
Regards,
Kevin