The Home Machinist!

Not to steal Diane's thread anymore than we have already, I will post this and then move to the Kombrink's American thread to show mounting it.

This came in the mail today. It will be the start of completely over hauling the piping and water system.

Pipescs wrote:.....It will be the start of completely over hauling the piping and water system.

Do you have ANY idea what you are getting into?

I am in the middle of the same thing and it is a bag of worms! I am finding more problems with the existing plumbing and spend half my time fixing things that should have been done right the first time.

One 'fun' part of the upgrades was making a new latch bar for the firebox door so it can be opened with the poker.

Do you have ANY idea what you are getting into

Of course not!!!!!

If I had known half of what I know now, I would still be flying RC model airplanes for relaxation.

My plan is to tear it all out and start at the tender coming forward with everything new and tested as I go.

I keep telling myself it is good training for the Rust Bucket project.

I took the injector apart.
The warning about the cones not being interchangeable is easy to see. They are quite different and easy to distinguish where they go in the body

Well, every time he's tried to run it, something in his piping goes wrong, usually something coming apart, and it ends up messing up his run. That's been the biggest issue he's had with it, other than that first seat which was put you in a groin pulling position when running it!

I've gone on a diet which should make the engine bigger if I can get smaller.

Pipescs wrote:Not to steal Diane's thread anymore than we have already, I will post this and then move to the Kombrink's American thread to show mounting it.

This came in the mail today. It will be the start of completely over hauling the piping and water system.

DSC_4997.jpg

DSC_5000.jpg

I have tried using those on my British tank engines but as soon as the water got a little warm it quit working. Also the lower pressure limit was higher than I was comfortable with.

The one on my 0-6-0 works quite well. Although, I have increased the water supply pipe from 3/16" to 1/4". It stays very cool. Your check valve from the boiler must be perfect in order to not get any steam feeding back to the injector and causing it to heat up while not using it.

David

Builder01 wrote: [snip] Your check valve from the boiler must be perfect in order to not get any steam feeding back to the injector and causing it to heat up while not using it.

David

That's generally true.
On my Allen Ten Wheeler, I just finished plumbing in a second check valve between the boiler check and the injector. I have some concerns that this might interfere with the SuperScale economy injector function, but others have done this with no problems. Worst case: it might restrict injector delivery flow, but that's OK because it must be throttle back anyway, during normal use. We'll see.

And I always solder pressure plumbing with 45% silver solder. I believe there's no place for soft solder in pressure plumbing...

The REAL solution to the leaking check valve is likely more frequent servicing of the main boiler check valve, which I also just performed. It was needed... Today I'll repeat the servicing for the same valve assembly on the other side of the boiler. Duh...

Hint: Our small valves can be "ground in" using tooth paste as the abrasive. It's better on the small valves, and most homes(!) have some available. And it washes away easily, for clean up. It made the check valve seal properly again, with minimal material removal.
~RN

Been having fun this morning doing "real" plumbing in scale! I am using PM Research raw fitting I machined up earlier and replacing the copper tubing plumbing with scale fittings. Had to figure out how to machine close nipples as well - it worked well. I find it enjoyable, doing scale plumbing, now that I have figured out how to get my 1/4-40 MTP threads right.

P.S. I wish I had a miniature pipe wrench! Something that would get a good grip on the tubing without leaving marks.