Hi All,
In the last I've soft soldered the blanks together before doing the final boring and machining operations. Would loctite 609/638 be able to perform the same function, without the hassle of having the two halves float around while hot?
-jlakes85
Machining Split Bearings
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Re: Machining Split Bearings
638 is only good to 300F. Higher melting point solder? But what do you mean by "floating around while hot"? Whlie machining?
Re: Machining Split Bearings
Hi John,
I was referring to the point where the rough bearing castings are sawn apart, cleaned up in the mill, then as they're soft soldered together, they have a tendency to float around during the liquidous phase. Keith Appleton did a video on YouTube showing how this can be an issue. I was wondering if it might be easier to use one of the green high strength loctites to achieve same
I was referring to the point where the rough bearing castings are sawn apart, cleaned up in the mill, then as they're soft soldered together, they have a tendency to float around during the liquidous phase. Keith Appleton did a video on YouTube showing how this can be an issue. I was wondering if it might be easier to use one of the green high strength loctites to achieve same
Re: Machining Split Bearings
Morning
its clear we do not have the full story,
assuming these are axle boxes. why not use locating pins/screws to locate the two half's during machining and while they are in service?
or if surface area is limited. one can machine up a fixture that can secure the two half's until the boring procedure is complete.
its clear we do not have the full story,
assuming these are axle boxes. why not use locating pins/screws to locate the two half's during machining and while they are in service?
or if surface area is limited. one can machine up a fixture that can secure the two half's until the boring procedure is complete.
If it is not live steam. its not worth it.
Re: Machining Split Bearings
I do not see any reason why a LocTite adhesive could not be used as described.
Just make sure it is a low-temp mix, for easy separation post-machining.
~RN
Just make sure it is a low-temp mix, for easy separation post-machining.
~RN
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Re: Machining Split Bearings
I see. Why not use superglue (the thin kind)? It'll give you a thinner and more consistent glue line. 638 is a gap filler. You'll want to lightly sand the surfaces for any glue.jlakes85 wrote:Hi John,
I was referring to the point where the rough bearing castings are sawn apart, cleaned up in the mill, then as they're soft soldered together, they have a tendency to float around during the liquidous phase. Keith Appleton did a video on YouTube showing how this can be an issue. I was wondering if it might be easier to use one of the green high strength loctites to achieve same
- Bill Shields
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Re: Machining Split Bearings
do it all the time with Loctite...
also put an air line at the chuck / collet to keep things cool...or flush coolant if you have it.
another way is to put a radial pin in each bearing and in the fixture. Drill the bearing through the diameter before you saw it in half (old car bearing trick).
also put an air line at the chuck / collet to keep things cool...or flush coolant if you have it.
another way is to put a radial pin in each bearing and in the fixture. Drill the bearing through the diameter before you saw it in half (old car bearing trick).
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Machining Split Bearings
I can't picture what you are suggesting. More explanation, please? I'd like to understand.Bill Shields wrote:[snip]
another way is to put a radial pin in each bearing and in the fixture. Drill the bearing through the diameter before you saw it in half (old car bearing trick).
~RN