New member from Texas thinking about a K36 (or 37)

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Mountaineer
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Re: New member from Texas thinking about a K36 (or 37)

Post by Mountaineer » Wed Jan 03, 2018 5:14 pm

Should you commit to a K-27 or K-36 in 2.5" scale, Bruno Platzer now has the patterns and drawings for both Richard Ulin's K-27 and Tom Miller's K-36 design. With respect and admiration for both designers, Richard's is a guideline only and needs a fair amount of re-design for a scale model (which I'm in the process of doing myself), whereas Tom's is a 'everything is there and drawn for you' type of design. I'm not sure if Bruno is set up to offer castings for either engine- worth an email to his site AlcoWest if interested.

By my rough calculations a K-27 is about 900 lbs lighter.

Good luck with your project!

Mountaineer.

KenG
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Re: New member from Texas thinking about a K36 (or 37)

Post by KenG » Wed Jan 03, 2018 5:22 pm

As Mountaineer just mentioned the K27 and K36 in 2.5 inch scale are available from Bruno Platzer of Alco West. I am building one of Tom Artzberger's 2.5 inch scale C21s (a little smaller than a K27) and I don't know that he will be offering more machined kits but may be able to supply castings. His RGS 20s occasionally come up for sale as incomplete projects on the Discover Live Steam website. Marty Knox has a finished one I think he is selling (called the Green Goddess) and has posted some videos here on the build log board. I can only second Miserlou's comment that these are big models.

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Fred_V
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Re: New member from Texas thinking about a K36 (or 37)

Post by Fred_V » Wed Jan 03, 2018 6:30 pm

I would say to stay with a know design where plans and castings are available. You can't imagine how many jigs and fixtures you will have to make for your first engine. That all takes time too.

As to cost, the bigger it is the more it costs. An Allen Mogul casting set is in the 2500.00 area. Castings for a K-27 run about $30,000.00 but there a lot more castings than what it takes to build an Allen engine.

Then the boiler. A K-27 needs an 11" pipe which is near impossible to fine. the K-36 is probably in the 12" pipe size. When you get above a certain size in boilers you have to build a "Code" boiler. That means a professional shop has to build it. $$$$$

Lots of stuff to look at before making a decision. Many guys had eyes bigger than their wallet and started an engine that was never finished. look at
https://www.discoverlivesteam.com/disco ... otive.html
There are always unfinished engines for sale there and casting sets that were never started.
I'm only trying to say be realistic about what you want and what is practical to build.

The RGS-20 is a really nice size engine with good pulling power. A lot of them have been built and they are a great engine.
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20a.jpg
Fred V
Pensacola, Fl.

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Greg_Lewis
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Re: New member from Texas thinking about a K36 (or 37)

Post by Greg_Lewis » Wed Jan 03, 2018 6:47 pm

Some folks are suggesting a "starter engine." When I began I mentioned this to the legendary Gene Allen and he replied, "Bah! Build the engine you want to build."
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of non-interchangeable parts.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 30 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.

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Marty_Knox
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Re: New member from Texas thinking about a K36 (or 37)

Post by Marty_Knox » Wed Jan 03, 2018 7:32 pm

Someone once told me every live steamer needs two locomotives - one to build and one to run!

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Greg_Lewis
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Re: New member from Texas thinking about a K36 (or 37)

Post by Greg_Lewis » Wed Jan 03, 2018 7:37 pm

Marty_Knox wrote:Someone once told me every live steamer needs two locomotives - one to build and one to run!
Very true. I've been working on mine for 20 years (it's a hobby.... everything else comes first), but I've got a gas hydraulic that I can run. And all I need to do is turn the key and off we go!
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of non-interchangeable parts.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 30 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.

alco2350
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Location: Houston, Texas

Re: New member from Texas thinking about a K36 (or 37)

Post by alco2350 » Wed Jan 03, 2018 8:10 pm

I'm pretty motivated once I get my mind and hands on something. Not saying that I'll finish a loco in three weeks, or even three years, but time isn't really a factor. I just want to get something started and ONE DAY be able to look at it and marvel that I actually put it together Kind of like I do my car when I back it out of the garage.

Britt

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Greg_Lewis
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Re: New member from Texas thinking about a K36 (or 37)

Post by Greg_Lewis » Wed Jan 03, 2018 8:27 pm

alco2350 wrote:I'm pretty motivated once I get my mind and hands on something. Not saying that I'll finish a loco in three weeks, or even three years, but time isn't really a factor. I just want to get something started and ONE DAY be able to look at it and marvel that I actually put it together Kind of like I do my car when I back it out of the garage.

Britt
Yeah. For me the fun is making stuff. I really don't care if I finish. I love to go to the museum, take measurements and photos, and then make the parts.
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of non-interchangeable parts.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 30 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.

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Fender
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Re: New member from Texas thinking about a K36 (or 37)

Post by Fender » Wed Jan 03, 2018 9:12 pm

Another thing you should consider is the minimum radius of the tracks you want to operate upon. If you build an 0-4-0 or 0-6-0, or even a 2-6-0, it will be able to run almost anywhere. A 4-8-4 or K36 2-8-2 won’t be able to run on some tracks, both because of the weight, but also because of the minimum radius needed to accommodate such a large locomotive.
Dan Watson

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Re: New member from Texas thinking about a K36 (or 37)

Post by Berkman » Wed Jan 03, 2018 9:37 pm

Almost any track can handle a 4-6-2, 4-6-4, 2-8-2 ( USRA heavy etc). It's when you start having four 9 or 10 inch drivers ( 4-8-2, 4-8-4, 2-10-X, etc) that you really start to feel the tightness of switches and curves.

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Fender
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Re: New member from Texas thinking about a K36 (or 37)

Post by Fender » Wed Jan 03, 2018 9:55 pm

Berkman wrote:Almost any track can handle a 4-6-2, 4-6-4, 2-8-2 ( USRA heavy etc). It's when you start having four 9 or 10 inch drivers ( 4-8-2, 4-8-4, 2-10-X, etc) that you really start to feel the tightness of switches and curves.
This is probably true for most club tracks, but not private tracks. A friend has a vey extensive track in his backyard, and I have taken my 2-6-0 there to visit. His track has a 32’ minimum radius, and 4-6-2s or 2-8-2s (or larger) need not apply. Again, consider where you plan to run. Even on club tracks, there can be more operational issues with long-wheelbase engines than with smaller ones.
Dan Watson

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NP317
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Re: New member from Texas thinking about a K36 (or 37)

Post by NP317 » Thu Jan 04, 2018 11:53 am

Berkman wrote:NP, what 2.5 scale mikado?
[snip]
Sorry, but I don't have facts on scale or specific locomotive that Dennis Weaver has.
The locomotive I saw under construction - and the castings/patterns on the shelf - were for a D&RGW narrow gauge Mikado.
I just don't remember which one! Wish I did...
~RN

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