Need some speed tips for getting a project done faster.

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rkcarguy
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Location: Wa State

Re: Need some speed tips for getting a project done faster.

Post by rkcarguy »

SteveM wrote: Wed Jan 24, 2018 1:22 pm
rkcarguy wrote: Wed Jan 24, 2018 1:08 pm A couple magnetic base dial indicators can go a long ways on the lathe too. I've put them on the carriage and cross-feed, then made myself a little cut map for more complicated parts with multiple steps/flanges.
I've been wary of anything magnetic, because it can move if you bump it. The clamp on ones are more secure, but more of a hassle to use.

I want to redesign my indicator clamp to have a quick-release handle on it.

Steve
Been there! The one I owned I had to be really careful not to bump it. The ones on the lathe at work have really big magnets, they literally have to be pried off when you don't need them. I actually had one pull the back cover off the dial indicator instead of letting go of the lathe. They also grab steel chips like crazy which can be a pain to pick off when doing cleanup. They would work great for turning wheels though.
shild
Posts: 293
Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 11:58 pm

Re: Need some speed tips for getting a project done faster.

Post by shild »

Yeah, I've been thinking about having an indicator with it's own dovetail to fit on the toolpost. Got a splinter yesterday from using the magnetic base to dial in the 4-jaw.
shild
Posts: 293
Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 11:58 pm

Re: Need some speed tips for getting a project done faster.

Post by shild »

Or maybe permanently mounting the indicator on the opposite side of the cross slide so I just crank the cross slide toward me to indicate? Thinking about that too. I really don't have a good place on my lathe to stand up the magnetic base.
RET
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Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2006 8:36 am
Location: Toronto, Canada

Re: Need some speed tips for getting a project done faster.

Post by RET »

Hi,

Two things. First, time spent improving your shop (it mostly happens over years) isn't wasted. Every time I added a piece of equipment, I made adapters & tooling for that machine to increase its versatility. Make sure you get the most common attachments (chucks, toolholders, carriage stops & collets for the lathe; readout, power feed, boring head and right angle attachment for the mill) for each machine. These attachments increase the speed, accuracy and versatility of the machine and are well worth the cost.

For instance, when I got the rotary table for the Bridgeport, I made an adapter plate so I could screw the South Bend lathe chucks onto the rotary table. This way, when I machine a part on the lathe, I can transfer the chuck to the table without losing register. Because its a 10" table and heavy, the rotary table is also permanently mounted on the left end of the mill table for use when needed.

The lathe and mill and CNC mill have wall mounted special plywood shelves that hold the most commonly used tooling (chucks, collets toolholders, etc) for that machine. That way they are always instantly available when needed.

I also took time out to build my own CNC milling machine (16" X, 9" Y and 8" Z travels) and a rotary headstock ("A" axis) that mounts on the CNC table. The little CNC mill has turned out to be VERY accurate and useful and well worth the time it took to build. With the machines I have, I wind up using the best machine (or combination of machines) for the job at hand.

Second, when making multiple parts that are the same, such as in locomotive suspensions, when possible make the required number of parts as a "stick" and then slice each semi finished (or finished) part from the stick for final finishing. As a bonus, often the stick is easier to hold for machining than the individual little bits would be.

Finally, if you have to hold a part for machining, you can soft solder it to a metal block then do your machining operations and then unsolder it when you have finished. I've done this several times when I wanted to make a locomotive number plate. It is both simple and easy to do.

Hope some of this helps.

Richard Trounce.
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Fred_V
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Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2003 3:26 pm

Re: Need some speed tips for getting a project done faster.

Post by Fred_V »

Some thoughts on what has to accurate.

The crankpins on the drivers have to be exact so you HAVE to make a jig to hold the wheels on the mill table and drill/ream every crankpin hole the same distance from the axle center.

Journal boxes have to be very accurate with the axle center equal distance from the slide surfaces that fit the frame.
Get either of these off and you will get binding when you put the side rods on and roll the chassis.

Side rods have to be made accurately also. Most guys make up 2 dummy side rods that are adjustable. That way you can put them in place and adjust to have no binding. you then use the dummies to match drill/ream your side rods.

Drive wheels have to be all the same diameter so get set up with cross slide and compound slide zeroed after making the first wheel. Then each other wheel will be turned until you slides reach zero.

The chassis is the most important part of the engine to get right. If it is not right you might as well start over. This is what others have said about buying a partially built engine. it probably is screwed up. Don't ask me how I know that!!

most of the rest of the engine doesn't have to be so accurate. I can guarantee you that you will make mistakes: holes in the wrong place, broken taps in blind holes...

What engine are you looking at to build??
Fred V
Fred V
Pensacola, Fl.
Kimball McGinley
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Joined: Wed May 31, 2006 2:13 pm
Location: Laguna Niguel CA

Re: Need some speed tips for getting a project done faster.

Post by Kimball McGinley »

I found it really helpful to lay out a plan of exactly what I was going to do tonight, while I ate my lunch at work.

Something like, "3-jaw outside, cut 2 pieces 1'' steel bar 4" long, center drill, 1/4" drill, turn to size, turn end for end, repeat on bar #2, part off 4 bushings, deburr, paint black.

What is bad is walking into the shop and wasting time deciding what to do...
John Hasler
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Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2016 4:05 pm
Location: Elmwood, Wisconsin

Re: Need some speed tips for getting a project done faster.

Post by John Hasler »

Kimball McGinley wrote: Wed Jan 24, 2018 8:11 pm I found it really helpful to lay out a plan of exactly what I was going to do tonight, while I ate my lunch at work.

Something like, "3-jaw outside, cut 2 pieces 1'' steel bar 4" long, center drill, 1/4" drill, turn to size, turn end for end, repeat on bar #2, part off 4 bushings, deburr, paint black.

What is bad is walking into the shop and wasting time deciding what to do...
Worse is walking into the shop and starting to do something without having decided how to do it.
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Greg_Lewis
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Location: Fresno, CA

Re: Need some speed tips for getting a project done faster.

Post by Greg_Lewis »

John Hasler wrote: Wed Jan 24, 2018 8:48 pm
Kimball McGinley wrote: Wed Jan 24, 2018 8:11 pm
...

What is bad is walking into the shop and wasting time deciding what to do...
Worse is walking into the shop and starting to do something without having decided how to do it.
Or walking into the shop and forgetting why you went out there in the first place. (That never happens to me...)
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
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Greg_Lewis
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Re: Need some speed tips for getting a project done faster.

Post by Greg_Lewis »

Don't forget keeping the shop in order. My rule is that all the tools must be put away at the end of each work session. I may not sweep the floor, but the tool rule is absolute. Thus I can find what I need next time. (Also, my security methods include locking things up and not displaying my tools to anyone who might break in.)

I don't see how some folks can get anything done in a shop that looks like the aftermath of a riot at a preschool.
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
John Hasler
Posts: 1852
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2016 4:05 pm
Location: Elmwood, Wisconsin

Re: Need some speed tips for getting a project done faster.

Post by John Hasler »

Greg writes:
> Don't forget keeping the shop in order. My rule is that all the tools must be put away at the end of each work session.

Yes, I do that too. Unfortunately the woodchucks sneak in at night, use my tools and machines to repair their excavating machines, and never put anything away.
shild
Posts: 293
Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 11:58 pm

Re: Need some speed tips for getting a project done faster.

Post by shild »

RET wrote: Wed Jan 24, 2018 3:34 pm Hi,

Two things. First, time spent improving your shop (it mostly happens over years) isn't wasted. Every time I added a piece of equipment, I made adapters & tooling for that machine to increase its versatility. Make sure you get the most common attachments (chucks, toolholders, carriage stops & collets for the lathe; readout, power feed, boring head and right angle attachment for the mill) for each machine. These attachments increase the speed, accuracy and versatility of the machine and are well worth the cost.

For instance, when I got the rotary table for the Bridgeport, I made an adapter plate so I could screw the South Bend lathe chucks onto the rotary table. This way, when I machine a part on the lathe, I can transfer the chuck to the table without losing register. Because its a 10" table and heavy, the rotary table is also permanently mounted on the left end of the mill table for use when needed.

The lathe and mill and CNC mill have wall mounted special plywood shelves that hold the most commonly used tooling (chucks, collets toolholders, etc) for that machine. That way they are always instantly available when needed.

I also took time out to build my own CNC milling machine (16" X, 9" Y and 8" Z travels) and a rotary headstock ("A" axis) that mounts on the CNC table. The little CNC mill has turned out to be VERY accurate and useful and well worth the time it took to build. With the machines I have, I wind up using the best machine (or combination of machines) for the job at hand.

Second, when making multiple parts that are the same, such as in locomotive suspensions, when possible make the required number of parts as a "stick" and then slice each semi finished (or finished) part from the stick for final finishing. As a bonus, often the stick is easier to hold for machining than the individual little bits would be.

Finally, if you have to hold a part for machining, you can soft solder it to a metal block then do your machining operations and then unsolder it when you have finished. I've done this several times when I wanted to make a locomotive number plate. It is both simple and easy to do.

Hope some of this helps.

Richard Trounce.
Thanks for the advice! I'm doing the plywood shelf idea already. I've got Blocks of wood on it that I nosedive endmills with collets still on them in it. Still not too sure about the best way to arrange drill bits in it. I just know I don't want them to be in a box. So what are other things that worked out well for you with the stick method? I thought cutting each part off first would be fastest because each part can be put in the vise with the vise stop lined up for holes.
shild
Posts: 293
Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 11:58 pm

Re: Need some speed tips for getting a project done faster.

Post by shild »

Fred_V wrote: Wed Jan 24, 2018 6:40 pm Some thoughts on what has to accurate.

The crankpins on the drivers have to be exact so you HAVE to make a jig to hold the wheels on the mill table and drill/ream every crankpin hole the same distance from the axle center.

Journal boxes have to be very accurate with the axle center equal distance from the slide surfaces that fit the frame.
Get either of these off and you will get binding when you put the side rods on and roll the chassis.

Side rods have to be made accurately also. Most guys make up 2 dummy side rods that are adjustable. That way you can put them in place and adjust to have no binding. you then use the dummies to match drill/ream your side rods.

Drive wheels have to be all the same diameter so get set up with cross slide and compound slide zeroed after making the first wheel. Then each other wheel will be turned until you slides reach zero.

The chassis is the most important part of the engine to get right. If it is not right you might as well start over. This is what others have said about buying a partially built engine. it probably is screwed up. Don't ask me how I know that!!

most of the rest of the engine doesn't have to be so accurate. I can guarantee you that you will make mistakes: holes in the wrong place, broken taps in blind holes...

What engine are you looking at to build??
Fred V
Is it important for the drivers counterweights to be balanced well or is a guess of what it should be usually good enough? As for what I want to build. I think maybe that might revolve around what I can get for parts easily first.
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