The Home Machinist!

Yes,
That is exactly how Gene's drawings show
construction. The idea with the flared fittings is you "might" get them installed and removed without taking the cylinders apart.

I'd sure like a better method.

put on flat flange fittings....

with either flare or ferrule fittings, you will have to break one cylinder off to get it loose. If you use the flat fittings like Bill suggested, you should be able to get them off without too much fuss.

makinsmoke wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2018 11:35 pm Yes,
That is exactly how Gene's drawings show
construction. The idea with the flared fittings is you "might" get them installed and removed without taking the cylinders apart.

I'd sure like a better method.

Brian, what's the big deal? Once you have it together you don't need to take them apart for a long time.
I am rebuilding a Mogul I built in 1988 that I have apart, but I am reusing the original exhaust pipe and may reuse the original compression fittings.
I usually silver solder the tubes into the casting leaving them a little long. I then bolt the cylinder on one side, center the casting, then trim the other side to get the cylinder on.
My suggestion though is once you get it located, to add a bracket to keep the casting from moving.

On my Chloe the copper steam tubes eroded through twice so I replaced them with 1/8" brass pipe 15 years ago; no problem. On other engines I have covered the copper tubing with a sheet metal shield which seems to work well.

Sent you a pm about photos Bill.

This is what I did for the exhaust attachment on my ten wheeler. I machined the cone off the face of a NPT to flare adaptor to make it a but fitting, I also machined the hex on the flare nut to be slightly smaller for wrench clearance. This set up slows you to center the blast nozzle as well.

I silver soldered a flat flanged fitting to the center casting and used a compression fitting on the cylinder end. assembled in place tightening the compression fittings last.

One idea I cooked up but have yet to try is to toss the Allen Nozzle and make a nozzle with 45 degree connections (or appropriate angle) to receive compressesion fittings between it and cylinder. The motivation is to make the blast nozzle penetration and steam lines in to single holes instead of the 2 x 3" saddle /smokebox opening.

JP

I'm actually doing something very similar to this on a locomotive now. The bottom part of the nozzle will be welded into the saddle, which is fabricated. The 45 angle will be tapped for 1/4 pipe and hopefully I can assemble the whole thing without removing a cylinder from the frame.

This is what I did, but I run with propane.

I was originally following the Allen design, but ditched the casting because I didn't like the hard 90deg turn the exhaust had to make.
I don't have a photo of the final design I went with, but I took two 3/8 copper tubes and made an inverted "Y" with smooth radii up into a custom exhaust stand. It was three pieces, the two legs of the Y and the middle long section that slip up into the heavy brass stand with an o-ring to seal it.
The top of the stand can be removed by pulling out two screws. I did this so I could experiment with various nozzle sizes/configurations.

The silver soldered "Y" arrangement has two 3/8 flare fittings that attach it to the cylinders which worked out great.