Wheels to axles — which Loctite?

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AusDan
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Re: Wheels to axles — which Loctite?

Post by AusDan »

Would loctite still be suitable in this case?

1.5" scale battery electric, 1"shaft is keyed, 1" wide sprocket not keyed, (sprocket driven by motor)

regards Danny
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Bill Shields
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Re: Wheels to axles — which Loctite?

Post by Bill Shields »

any of those already described.
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
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Trainman4602
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Re: Wheels to axles — which Loctite?

Post by Trainman4602 »

THIS POST HAS REALLY GONE OFF THE DEEP END. YOUR SUPPOSED TO BE HOME MACHINIST NOT SOME GLUE FREAKS PLEASE!!!
1200 plus views at this point Bill Shields you must be loving it.
Why not glue the whole locomotive including the boiler.

NO JOKE I new of one prominent builder back east here the glued the stay bolts in a boiler. Tapped holes and loctit them in.
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Doug_Edwards
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Re: Wheels to axles — which Loctite?

Post by Doug_Edwards »

Dave,

I have read the board long enough to notice that you whine and snivel when ever someone hijacks a post of yours or questions something you have posted. How about showing some of the same courtesy for the posters of this thread that you demand for yourself?

Harold, hope my comments are not considered over the top, but I am of the view that some of the negative comments on this thread are not conducive to the community of this board, and would like to see the thread continue as there is good info being presented.

Regards to all,

Doug
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Building a 70 ton Willamette in 1.6"
Building a 80 ton Climax in 1.6"

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Trainman4602
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Re: Wheels to axles — which Loctite?

Post by Trainman4602 »

I have nothing against the use of loctite if all else fails we all screw up. I just do not like the PLANED use of it. The live steam hobby is supposed to be a learning experience that is machining not gluing.

I don't see how you consider my comments negative. Is it negative the use loctite or better yet the excuse for non quality work.
I'm simple tired of people accusing my comments as negative. If I don't chime in on and agree with loctite use to hold wheels on COME ON GUYS Really

If someone joins this forum looking for advise on how to machine a part and someone says loctite it on well in my book that is steering them in the wrong direction.

Doug do you loctite your drivers on ?
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rwmorris
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Re: Wheels to axles — which Loctite?

Post by rwmorris »

Yawnnnnnnn.....
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Harold_V
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Re: Wheels to axles — which Loctite?

Post by Harold_V »

Doug, your comments are valid and well placed.
Dave---give it a break. You're not going to change the minds of those who feel differently about this subject, nor should you, unless they are misguided. In this case, that isn't true.

By now, I suspect that most readers understand my thoughts on LocTite, a wonderful product, very capable of performing the tasks to which it can be assigned, and a very capable substitute for proper machined fits, which would tend to be my choice. I, personally, would not choose to use anything but proper fits, but I also happen to have the proper equipment (cylindrical grinder and rigid hone) for sizing, making the task easy. Others may not be so fortunate, and may have a perfect reason to pursue a different resolution to their problem, as in this case.

I agree that this thread is spinning out of control. Its purpose was not intended to be a critique of the methods of others, nor should it be. If a guy is uncomfortable, for any reason, in pursuing a press or shrink fit, there's not a valid reason why he shouldn't pursue the use of a tried and proven product. In fact, that would be perfectly acceptable.

Lets not waste any more time beating this topic to death. Any further comments that create acrimony will be deleted. Get back to talking constructively.

H
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Trainman4602
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Re: Wheels to axles — which Loctite?

Post by Trainman4602 »

OK Harold that is fine Thank You
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Trainman4602
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Re: Wheels to axles — which Loctite?

Post by Trainman4602 »

OK one final note from me.

I did my machinist apprenticeship at DeLaval turbine. I worked exclusively on the engine lathe.

I got a job there so I could learn have to properly machine parts for my locomotive. Before that time I screw up a few parts , that was the reason for getting the job.

When it can to the quartering of the drivers, well It scared me. I felt that I was not good enough to do it properly. I thought of a way to make it easier.

Yes I considered loctite. I also considered using a Dutchman pin after the loctite set up.

One of the foreman there a German guy and excellent machinist said don’t do it that way make it right with the proper key way and press fit. Then you have something to be proud of. Hey nice job you did on the wheels.

You know that statement stuck with until this very day.

So take it for what it is worth. That is it from me on this subject.
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WJH
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Re: Wheels to axles — which Loctite?

Post by WJH »

I purchased a nice micrometer, bought a larger mill with DRO, with a 1 micron scale on the cross slide, and a toolpost grinder that can do OD and ID grinding. I’m excited to give it a go trying to do precise interfere fits. I have the same burning desire as Dave to do things a certain way, and learn while doing it. However, if I screw up a 100$ casting, I am probably going to salvage it with loctite, or turn a new axle that slightly larger for that one wheel.


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Trainman4602
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Re: Wheels to axles — which Loctite?

Post by Trainman4602 »

That's the way to go. Try and do it right but Oh well make another axle to fix.
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Harold_V
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Re: Wheels to axles — which Loctite?

Post by Harold_V »

WJH wrote: Wed Mar 21, 2018 7:28 pm and a toolpost grinder that can do OD and ID grinding.
In the hopes of enlightening you as to the use of a tool post grinder, please understand that it is not going to be a magical experience. Grinding produces heat, and heat is your enemy. Unless you have a junk lathe (I know you don't have), you won't be able to run coolant, so you're still going to fight sizing, although the one added advantage is the wheel will take what you toss at it, unlike a tool bit.

You will have issues with two things. One is taper. Precision grinders have an upper table that swivels and locks, so taper can be addressed easily. That design also allows for flood coolant, which never sees the ways. The other feature that will be troubling is that lathes don't have fine feed capability, unlike a precision grinder. When it gets down to removing a tenth or two, it's more by luck than by talent, although if you become very familiar with your machine you may be able to prove me wrong with that problem. A high resolution DRO might help, and I see you alluded to one.

Over all, you will find that you are more able to hit tight tolerance dimensions with a tool post grinder than with a turning tool, and it should yield a better finish, but don't lose sight of the fact that you'll still be operating a lathe.

I'm looking forward to a report on your success.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
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