I'm relatively new to the large scale train world although am well skilled in fabrication and machine work. Like Glenn I am modeling in 12" gage. I ultimately went with a diesel (gas hydraulic) for my first build which is in progress. I find the X-4-X steamers to be a bit toy like....no offense guys....so if I was going to build a steamer I'd do an 0-6-0 switcher first like the USRA 0-6-0. There is minimal additional linkage for the extra wheelset and I think the extra 2 drive wheels would make quite a bit of difference in traction.
I think the radius issue can be dealt with my having some of the middle wheels be without flanges, or have some side to side float and use bearings with some self-aligning capability in the rods going to those axles. If you'll not be operating on your own RR, you just need to build to suit the radii of your local track.
rkcarguy wrote: ↑Tue Apr 02, 2019 12:04 pm
I think the radius issue can be dealt with my having some of the middle wheels be without flanges, or have some side to side float and use bearings with some self-aligning capability in the rods going to those axles. If you'll not be operating on your own RR, you just need to build to suit the radii of your local track.
An interesting concept for an articulated locomotive
Buy an engine to operate at the local club while you build your engine. You will need time off from the project, and what better way than to go and operate an engine and fellowship with the fellow live steamers.
Berkman wrote: ↑Tue Apr 02, 2019 1:23 pm
Don't forget all the articulated frame joints and articulated steam passages required for a articulated locomotive.
it is not a case of forgetting, but one of learning.
I always thought it would be ideal (maybe not realistic) to have THREE different locomotives available for you to choose from!
(1) I would have a small locomotive that was very portable/easy to handle and fire. Something that I can carry easily in the bed of my truck or in the back of my SUV, along with coal, oil, air compressor, tools, and a riding car that I can use for two people. My 0-4-2 chloe fits this category very well. If you just want to go run something for 3 or 4 hours, or you can't take your trailer with you on your trip, then this is the locomotive to take.
(2) I would have a medium size locomotive for some travel and for club run days, etc... Something like a ten wheeler, mogul, or 0-6-0, small Consolidation, or even a large and heavy 4-4-0. A locomotive that can pull about 2x what the chloe can do or more, and has a larger boiler and is easier to run a train with. Something that will pull 5 or 6 cars with 3 or 4 passengers fairly competently. Can be loaded/unloaded reasonably, etc... This is what I would take for a club run day or something similar, or when visiting another track for the first time.
(3) Large heavy puller. Would use this only at large meets or somewhere that I'm going to unload and stay and run for several days at a time, on a track that I know can handle it. This would be the so-called 'Dream' locomotive, which might be a heavy 2-8-2, Pacific, Berkshire, Northern, or even a small articulated such as a 2-6-6-2. Something along those lines.
I have an 0-4-2 Chloe, I have a 2-10-0 Decapod, and I'm working(slowly) on an Allen 4-4-0, so you might say that I'm heading in that general direction with my equipment choices. Each has their advantages and disadvantages, and each would have their specific purpose. The first one can go to pretty much ANY track out there that is 7 1/2" gauge and can run, and is typically your starter locomotive. The second one would be able to run at any Club track, and probably about 85% of private tracks out there, so something that can turn a 35 to 40 foot radius would be what I'd be after. The last one would be something that could be used at larger clubs or large private tracks only.
One of the things for you to consider in your choice of locomotives is how much you intend to travel to other tracks. With a Challenger or Big Boy, your travel destinations will be very limited. I don't know very many private tracks that could host a locomotive that size either. On the other hand, an 0-4-0 will run on virtually any track out there, and something like a Mogul or 4-4-0 will run on almost any track other than the very smallest layouts with sharp curves. A medium size consolidation, IMHO, is the best of all worlds, and can do all jobs fairly well and they are very versatile. It's no wonder that railroads had so many of them on their rosters.
I doubt the tracks in Georgia can realistically handle unloading and loading a 4-8-8-4, also you will not be able to use most turntables.
My suggestion if going for something Union Pacific...
1. Build a UPRR pacific from LE or Roger goldman castings - pretty big engine but can run at basically any club track.
2. a UPRR Mikado from Godshall castings- again big and can pull a lot, but can run at almost any club track.
3. 2-8-0 from Roger goldman castings.
4. 2-6-6-2 from Little engines 0-6-0 or Roger goldman usra 0-6-0 castings.
rkcarguy wrote: ↑Tue Apr 02, 2019 12:04 pm
I think the radius issue can be dealt with my having some of the middle wheels be without flanges, or have some side to side float and use bearings with some self-aligning capability in the rods going to those axles. If you'll not be operating on your own RR, you just need to build to suit the radii of your local track.
An interesting concept for an articulated locomotive
On a 2-6-6-2, I think either flangeless wheels (I think this is called "blind") or side float could be utilized on the center axles of each set of drivers to help the locomotive negate tigther turns on a home layout. Obviously the flangeless wheels would be much easier to do.
I have been reading the various thoughts and suggestions and seeing it seems to involve articulated engines - Challenger I know a person building one .
I thought it would take me 10 years and 10000 hrs but 22 years later and close to 12000 hrs i'm still going with a wild guess of another 2 - 3000 hrs to go.
The cost so far would be around 6 figures and i'm not finished .( castings and parts - no machine tools )
Let's be honest here - how many people would or could do what I've been doing - most people would of given up years ago .
I still really enjoy what I do , but I have given up trying to predict when the engine will be finished - I just say to people another 5 years and that was 10 years ago .
An articulated engine is a very different engine to build and a lot more time consuming than a standard engine - and then add the level of detail you want .
Please take peoples advise , most people dream of a large engine - very few will finish one .
Maybe your like me , I love working out how I'm going to make the various items and then machine them . ( but making 100 S/S bolts to suit can be a pain and a long process )
Remember always make extras parts because you will screw up ( I always have a sacrificial part to get a set of good parts - my test piece )
I also have some pretty serious lifting setups to be able to handle the various parts - the boiler and smokebox alone are around 350kg/700lbs - the engine by its self - boiler and frt / rear running chassis is around 900kg/ 2000lbs .
Most of the machining has been done on a Bridgeport 9 + 42 and a 12 + 36 quality lathe .
