The Home Machinist!

Hey Guys-

I'm going to be using a Uhaul trailer at the end of the month to haul my 4-6-2 Pacific Locomotive from it's current storage location to my home, (about a 5 hour trip). I've never transported it before, and will only have a day or so to rig the inside of the trailer. Curious if you guys have any suggestions or experience with something like this? I have a rough idea of how I'm going to try it, but always open to suggestions. Thanks in advance!!

Schlick...been moving an Allen 10 wheeler around for 19 years. Before showing/explaining some ideas, need to ask the following?
1) do you have front end coupler?
2) do you intend to move loco and tender pinned together?
3) do you have a removable steam dome cover?

Discussion...
1) saw an idea for a coupler mechanism years ago and have had used this design for myself and friends alike. Starts with a piece of 3" square steel tube. Can probably weld some other steel parts together to accomplish the same thing. Important part...the holes to secure the coupler need to pull the coupler as far to the right side inside the pocket. Make sure the bottom of this transport coupler pocket will clear your pilot (don't ask how I know). To load...roll the loco up to the pocket, drop the pin, front end of the loco is now captured. To unload...make sure everything else to the rear is clear...BEFORE you pull the coupler pin. Just in case you're parked on a slight grade.

2) if you're separating loco and tender, you can fabricate a bracket with a tongue that slides into the rear coupler beam and drop your loco/tender coupling pin. Loco is now secured moving fore/aft. A 10 wheeler is small enough that a couple extra bungee cords are wrapped around the rear of the loco. For something as large as your loco, consider a ratcheting strap (actually, get several straps...they won't go to waste).
3) having a removable steam dome cover, allowed me to fabricate a yoke to straddle the dome. The inside of the yoke is lined with a layer of vinyl. The yoke actually rests on the steam dome screws. A 1/2" x 2" steel bar passes under the temporary transport track. This bar has a couple pieces of all-thread rod secured to the bar. Top end of the thread rods run thru holes in the yoke assembly and are wing-nutted. This keeps the loco from rocking side-side...also helps keep the loco pulled forward into the front coupler pocket. As such, nothing touches the sides of the loco. Can see the yoke in the above photo.

You're likely to get many ideas for securing a loco for transport. You'll have to decide what works best for you and your loco. Whatever you come up with, make it portable and have a place to store the transport track. You're likely to need it again some day. Carl B.

That's a tough one not knowing what kind of trailer you are renting, how it's equipped, and what means of loading and unloading you have at each location? At a minimum you'll need a section of track or something for it to sit on and a way to secure it.

Carl, thanks for the pictures and suggestions, lots of good information. I’ll be hauling the actual engine stand to my place two weeks before I get the engine. At that time I’m going to measure out the heights of the trailer deck, engine stand, and the loading dock where I’ll be picking it up.

My original thought was to haul the engine and tender side by side to help with keeping the weight towards the front of the trailer. I was going to use some plywood and mount wood as “temporary rails” for the engine and tender to sit on. Given me some good stuff to think about. Excited to get started on this project!

I haul my locomotives on a 3/4" thick peace of plywood. I mounted rails and brackets that clamp down the front coupler pocket and rear draw bar pocket. I strap the plywood down to the floor of the van with ratchet straps. You could make up a plywood sheet a head of time and trim it if necessary to fit the trailer. And it could be used in a truck, van or trailer in the future.

I have rails and eye bolts mounted to a 3/4" thick plywood floor.
It fits in my old truck, and also in my new truck.
Couplers secure in receivers at the front, and the engine and car secure with straps.
Design to fit and meet your needs.
~RN

I'd be careful about relying solely upon a coupler to hold the engine. I used to do that and had a little hauling incident years ago during which the coupler broke right at the neck between the head of the coupler and the shank. I'd also avoid bungee cords. Ratchet straps would be more positive. I might run some bars through the spokes of the drivers at the bottom and screw the bars down to the trailer deck as additional insurance for whatever else you do.

And be sure to check whatever you attach your hold-downs to — trailer walls, decking, etc. Make sure those items are secured to the trailer frame.

Something I did when building my 10-wheeler was to make the front pilot beam out of solid stock. I drilled the underside ends of the beam and threaded the holes 1/2-13. I have a bracket that bolts to the pilot beam and to the deck of the trailer so the front isn't going anywhere. There is also a rear bracket that bolts to the frame.

If you are making frequent trips back-and-forth to both locations, consider the cost of doing a “local” rental (meaning it is returned to the same location where it was rented) vs. a one-way rental. It may be a lot cheaper.

dare I ask the question: what happens if you get in a front end accident or roll the vehicle over?...and you have 1/2 ton of metal flying around the inside of the vehicle?

all this being anchored to a board is nice...but what is the BOARD anchored to????

I say this because I had (emphasis HAD) a friend who got into a roll-over accident and was hit in the head by an oscilloscope (about the size of a small toolbox...

My straps and braces all go through the floor of the van and are anchored to the frame of the truck..

I rented a full size Ford Expedition last October in Philly and strapped down a 1" LE 0-6-0 and tender to a piece of track on a piece of plywood in the back. Used Home depot tie down D-rings bolted to plywood with straps over the top and through the drivers/frame. Added 8 steel drivers and castings in a box. Drove up to Marty's and picked up a couple of 1.5" boilers and strapped them down too. Down to Dallas and back to LA.

Great road trip - It's a really big country! Some slight movement in the back, but NBD. YRMD.

I remember one of our members at LALS would load his Harpur Mogul into his VW Jetta on a board in the back. One of the great things about small and medium sized locomotives.

Drive safe.

Well, before hand, I would first go inspect the U haul trailer and find out if you have any tie down points on the bed or frame.

I’ve found The easiest and safest way to transport my loco, is to strap it down to frame with off the shelf, flat nylon ratcheting trucking straps. You can buy packages of four for a few bucks at any hardware store. People use them all the time to tie down motorcycles on small trailers.

But, a big cravat! You need solid tie down points to fix the end hooks.so check the trailer before hand, to see if you have any place to secure the ends of the straps.

I wouldn’t worry about making rails to move the loco, or fabricating elaborate hold downs for one move. Good idea maybe if you are going to transport the loco multiple times per season. But to get it home, if it were me, just throw down some plywood (or not), and use some straps.

Glenn

Another suggestion: If we knew your location, maybe some one would volunteer to use their dedicated train trailer to help you move your equipment.
As a note, I have been known to help move things more than 5 hours away.

Jim B