Photos of DIY Vacuum Actuator

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Chet
Posts: 155
Joined: Fri Jan 10, 2003 5:17 pm
Location: Avon Lake, OH
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Photos of DIY Vacuum Actuator

Post by Chet »

1. I knocked together 2 sock-type vacuum actuators for my tender brakes that were discussed in an earlier thread.
2. I ended up using 1.5" PVC tubing and the actuator has a 3/4" throw.
3. One end cap had to be shortened to 1/2" inside length.
4. The barrel is 1-5/8" long, with a 0.020 relief a half-inch long on one end to accomodate the inner tube.
5. The 0.020 reliev allows the tube to be drawn over the top of the cylinder without slipping off.
6. One end cap has a 3/16 hole in the center for a 3/16 eyebolt stem (1/4" hole), and a secondary hole for a 3/16 brass tube for the vacuum hose.
7. The brass tube is flared on one end, and fed from the inside of the cap, and then glued in place.
8. I heated a 3/16 rod to cherry red and bent an eye-shape on a vise between two 1/4" bolts.
9. I made the shaft extra long (so it would be easier to assemble to the inner tube) and threaded it 10-32.
10. Take one end of the bicycle inner tube and instant glue it to 1/2 of a 3/16 fender washer.
11. Now glue the other end to the opposite half of the washer.
12. I made a jig with a scrap piece of 3/16 rod threaded for about an inch with a 10-32 thread. Screw a 10-32 nut all the way to the bottom of the thread.
13. Place the tube/washer assembly over the rod being held vertical in a vise. This will allow you to glue and wrap over the other two edges of the inner tube.
14. Put a second fender washer on top, and tighten with a 10-32 nut and let dry.
15. Remove assembly from the jig.
16. Take your custom 3/16 rod with eyelit and thread it through the 2nd end cap.
17. Add a stop nut to the end of the thread.
18. Slip the assembly onto the rod and tighten with 10-32 nut. (You'll probably have to double up the inner tube section so it will fit.)
19. Saw off the excess rod.
20. Extend the inner tube section straight out.
21. Now slide the open end over the 1/2" relief second on the body cylinder.
22. Slip the rod/washer end through the center, and slide the assembly into the end cap. Once pushed together, it won't come apart!
23. Slip a 5/8 diameter x 1 inch long spring over the rod.
(My hardware store had an assortment of Hillman springs, and I used a #131 costing 40 cents)
24. Give the assembly a vacuum test.
25. If you don't have any leaks, you'll be pleasantly surprised!

For some the above info will be way too detailed, for some not nearly detailed enough.

I numbered the steps in case there are any questions.

Chet
Attachments
7 Mounted Unit.jpg
6 Almost Complete.jpg
5 Sealing Tube 2.jpg
4 Sealing Tube 1.jpg
3 Cutting Relief.jpg
2 New Unit Parts.jpg
1 Original Unit.jpg
leesubs
Posts: 19
Joined: Sat Aug 26, 2006 7:34 pm
Location: Durham, North Carolina

Post by leesubs »

Chet, do you have a dimensioned sketch?
JoeBlake.
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 6:06 pm

Post by JoeBlake. »

Good one Chet, just as I'm getting to the brake stage.
Glad to see that I am not the only one to use a Diamond tool in my lathe.
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