New Year.....New project

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JBodenmann
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Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
Location: Tehachapi, California

Post by JBodenmann »

Got a bit more done today. Yesterday I put the wheels in the three jaw and faced the back and drilled bored and reamed the axle hole. Today I held the wheels with an expanding collet. I had an inside collet just a bit bigger than what I needed so I turned it down a bit. The turned down bit is just a bit shorter than the wheel is thick, so this made facing off the wheel easy. Cemented carbide lathe bit 300 RPM. It's really fun working on these little parts.
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JBodenmann
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Post by JBodenmann »

Here you can see the little wheel out on the end of the expanding collet. This worked surprisingly well.
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JBodenmann
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Post by JBodenmann »

Now we're getting somewhere. Wheels ready for the crank pin holes. The main crank pin holes are 3/8". The front and intermediate crank pin holes are 9/32". Some times we have a tendency to want to start sticking things together. I am anxious to put the wheels on the axles. But before I can do that I must brainstorm on the axle pump. This engine was originally designed without one. So where does it go and which axle should drive it? Where do the excentrics go? I think it would be good to have the axles and axle boxes in the frame to have a look before I haul off and put the wheels on the axles. I will be loctiting the wheels to the axles so it's really no big deal, I can take them off if I have to but I hate doing things twice. This happens frequently when building an engine, I want to finish this but before I can I have to do this, and before that I have to...... Oh well you get the picture. But there is still no shortage of things to do!
Too Much Fun
Jack
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Kimball McGinley
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How did you do that?

Post by Kimball McGinley »

As usual, great work! Makes my stuff look like c _ _ p.

It looks to me like the inside faces of the wheels are machined inside of the circle described by the counterweight area and the crank pin boss. That cannot be done on a spinning lathe. Was that some mill work or what? Please enlighten us!

I am really thrilled that you and others, like Dave and the Josselin Hudson guy (name- sorry) are taking the time to "mentor" the rest of us. We all appreciate how much time it takes for you guys to do it. I met Jack Sessums a few times before we lost him and I wish he had been able to do the same sort of thing...

Kimball
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JBodenmann
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Post by JBodenmann »

Hi Kimball
You are very observant. They were clamped down to the mill table and zoomed off a bit. Then I went over them a little with the die grinder and a couple different carbide burrs. Then some hand filing. If I had faced more off the back of the wheels and less off the front this would not have been needed. This is how we learn.
Jack
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gwrdriver
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Post by gwrdriver »

JBodenmann wrote:If I had faced more off the back of the wheels and less off the front this would not have been needed. This is how we learn.
It is indeed. The very first wheel I ever turned, a driver for a LE American, was ruined becaue I didn't pay much attention to the casting. I asumed it had plenty of "mistake allowance" and I didn't bother to gauge how much metal was to come off from where vs. how much material was allowed for machining. I now always study my castings to determine exactly what can be peeled off from where. The drawing isn't always an accurate portrayal of the actual shape of the casting, and the casting machining allowance isn't always sufficient to be able to save the casting, or prevent it looking wonky, if you take a little too much off. I typically use the front face (or plane) of the spokes to start my study so that ideally the front faces of the spokes, tire/rim, and counterbalance end up having the proper relationship to each other.
GWRdriver
Nashville TN
Andy R
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Location: So. Calif.

Post by Andy R »

Jack,

Those axleboxes are awesome! I wish mine (built per LBSC's plan) were not already pressed on the axles.

As far as the three Virginia's project is coming along, Duane and i spent Friday forming three firebox sheets. Next week we plan to form the outer sheets and i'll try to remember the camera and post some photos.

You wrote "...but I hate doing things twice. This happens frequently when building an engine ..." Amen to that brother!

Andy
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slsf1060
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Location: Dallas, Texas

Post by slsf1060 »

Andy R wrote:Jack,

You wrote "...but I hate doing things twice. This happens frequently when building an engine ..." Amen to that brother!

Andy
I thought I was the only one that ended up with a second engine after completing the first... :lol:


Darren McNeely
Darren McNeely

and the sons of Pullman Porters, and the sons of engineers,
ride their father's magic carpets made of steel.

www.swlsonline.org
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JBodenmann
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Post by JBodenmann »

Thanks Andy. The axle boxes are Mr. Coventry's design. Beautiful hand drawn and lettered prints.
As to making parts for the scrap bin...all who have ever finished an engine have made a few. I takes more raw dog determination, or in my case stubbornness, than anything else to build an engine. That means when you make scrap , you chalk it up to experience and get on with it.
Too Much Fun?
Jack
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steamisgood
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Location: Philadelphia

3/4" scale baloney

Post by steamisgood »

THANKS for posting your progress on the 0-6-0! I really enjoy watching your progress as it is very interesting and entertaining. Keep up the AWESOME work!! :D I think it may inspire me to build a 3/4" scale engine from the H.J.Coventry designs!

Thanks again,
J. Kane
Sincerely, John Kane
"One cannot learn to swim without getting into the water."
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Comstock-Friend
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Location: Sun Valley, California

Re: New Year.....New project

Post by Comstock-Friend »

Jack, sorry to drag up this old thread, but I'm at the journal box stage of my D30. Prof Coventry just shows the jbox slots at the nominal frame width of 5/16". LBSC does the same (like on the 'Virginia'). Kozo's A3 is mostly straight, with a chamfer at the corners. Martin Evan has the slots radiused at the ends to allow the axle to drop on one side while the other side raises.

What is the Jack Bodenmann method; straight or relieved at the ends? If straight, do you open the width of the slot to allow some motion, and how much? I'd hate to get them too tight and have to grab the die grinder to 'zoom' them in!

John
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JBodenmann
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Re: New Year.....New project

Post by JBodenmann »

Hi John
I made the slots slightly oversize to allow one box to raise up a bit without binding, only about .010" as one journal box isn't going to move much more than it's mate. I haven't done anything on the 0-6-0 for some time as I have been busy setting up the new house and shop and working on the railway. I have a good friend that calls these tasks jobstacles. It's a good term, you know, I have to do this before I can do that, and I have to do this before......So there is no shortage of things to do!
Jack
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