cylinder cock design from latest live steam mag...

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gwrdriver
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Postby gwrdriver » Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:24 am

For the same reason I know not to, probably.
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tsph6500
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Postby tsph6500 » Sat Mar 14, 2009 8:06 am

gwrdriver wrote:At that time Bon-Ami was made of diatomeceous earth and was just the thing for seating model parts. I don't know what it's made of now, but I've no doubt it has been "improved" to the point where it's useless.


There are diatomeceous earth products for insect control at our gardening centres and big box stores. I believe they are nearly 100% "earth" with an attractant added.
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gwrdriver
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Postby gwrdriver » Sat Mar 14, 2009 8:50 am

Jim,
That's interesting to know and worth investigating. If anyone is like me even the smallest can of a very fine grit of Clover Compound would have lasted several lifetimes so I never bought the right stuff. I kind of wish I had now, or figured out a way to share a can, instead I tried everything else like toothpastes, Bon-Ami, other souring powders, etc. and just made do. I also have never tried Timesavers which I hear is good.
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Bill Shields
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OPen Cocks

Postby Bill Shields » Sat Mar 14, 2009 9:25 am

Open Cocks are also useful if the throttle is leaking a bit and you don't want water accumulating in the cylinders while standing.

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gnsteam
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Postby gnsteam » Sat Mar 14, 2009 12:59 pm

On the topic of cylinder drains. Can anyone identify this style of steam operated cylinder drain that came with my 1" scale GN Mikado? They appear to have been mass produced due to the process required to make the diaphram (white plastic disc with to projects to seal the drains outlet). Are they still available? I need replacement diaphrams for two of the valves.

Fred
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Fred

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Bill Wilkins
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Cyl Cocks

Postby Bill Wilkins » Sat Mar 14, 2009 4:30 pm

Those look just like mine which were from Railroad Supply. My discs looked like yours, deformed from the steam pressure. I made new discs from .030. Some said you could take out the brass disc with the thicker disc, I left mine in. I'll know how the work in a bout two months.

Bill W.
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Cyl Cock Assembly.jpg

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gnsteam
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Postby gnsteam » Sat Mar 14, 2009 11:58 pm

Thanks Bill,

Having seen these drains and taking them apart for the first time. I assumed the deformed projections where made that way from the begaining. Didn't cross my mind that they became that way under constant pressure. Two of the discs are cracked through the projections. So all I need to do is make new flat discs.

Thanks for the reply!

Fred
Fred

gcarsen
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Postby gcarsen » Wed Mar 25, 2009 1:56 am

I was watching this posting, and today a project came in the door. figured i would share with you folks! a full set of fullsize cylinder cocks came in to have new upper bodies made. here are photos of the fullsize one and dissasembled so you can see how they where built. came off a smaller loco. 2-6-2 wheel arrangement. it is operated by flat bar in the lower slots with ramped area to lift the valve of of the sealing surface.
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Harlock
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Postby Harlock » Wed Mar 25, 2009 2:04 am

Bill, that is some delicate plumbing protruding from the bottom of the cylinders! :) May all your tracks be tamped and your gauge be true...do you have some sort of strike plate below that level that will hit the track first?

As a followup to this discussion, we came up with our own design for a mechanical cock and it is working very well on air at least. We'll post some pictures and plans when they are finished. It's been great to see the 'dozen ways to skin a cat' postings, and we've just added another one I think...
San Lorezo Flume & Lumber Co. #2 - "Felton"
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pockets
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Postby pockets » Wed Mar 25, 2009 6:58 am

gcarson,
Thanks a ton. Between your photos and BS's drawings, even I can develope a train of thought on the ramp type valves.

Greg B.
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Postby Kimball McGinley » Wed Mar 25, 2009 2:24 pm

Harlock: I have to agree! That piping looks scary delicate and vulnerable! On my 0-4-0, I figure the front step type pilot "L"-shaped will make a good skidplate.

gcarsen: Where did you get that little quarter? Ha-Ha! What has worn out that new bodies are needed?
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Lever operated from cab - Coles plug type valve

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Postby gcarsen » Wed Mar 25, 2009 2:31 pm

we need to replace the upper body because the root of the threads that go into the cylinders have cracks in them. odball thread too! some thing like a 6tpi tapered pipe thread that i will need to match. the thread that the body threads into is a standard. at assembly we can run a tap into that thread to get the timing right for the valve bar.


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