Jack, your tender looks great so far. And that looks like a lot of rivets. How many will you need to complete the tank?
I don't have a air chisel so I use a normal hammer too. Here are some progress views on my water tank (some weeks old, as I didn't had time for further progress the last weeks ) I use 2mm copper rivets and I'll need approx. 650 of them.
I hope I can continue soon to get the tank ready for installation of plumbing, valves and so on...
Cheers, Gerd
What is the exact size of the rivets? width? length?
A line of 3/32 size fittings sound very interesting as that would work well for the air gauge plumbing on a certain C-30 caboose that is in my shop. The master pattern for the conductor's valve is moving along nicely and a completed rendering will be appearing in the caboose thread as soon as it is ready for public viewing. The conductor's valve is plumbed into the train line air pressure gauge and 3/32 would be much more accurate than the 1/16 I was considering using for that application. We might need a reducing Tee from 1/8 down to 3/32 to make things look just right.
Good idea, fills a big void in our finescale building needs department.
Hello My Friends
The little brake cylinder castings are back from the foundry and here is a look at them. I will list them in the for sale section if anyone is interested. They are bronze castings. I will offer them both as an unmachined kit and as a machined and assembled brake cylinder if there is interest. The inlet boss can be set up for either 1/8" model pipe or 3/32" tube. I hope to have some 3/32" pipe fittings and unions soon. No shortage of things to do!
Jack
Hello My Friends
Here are a couple photos of machined brake cylinders. The bore is 5/8", the piston rod is 1/8". The piston is free machining brass with a Teflon cup seal. Tiny tee bolts were made from #1-72 brass model bolts to hold the heads in place. The return spring is stainless. The plumbing connections are 1/8" model pipe threads. The piping to the cylinders will be 3/32" and will connect with a reducer union. Perhaps it's time to make up some 3/4" scale independent brake valves. Should be a delightful little puzzle. Anyone interested?
Jack
Hello Jack, looking good. Did you machine the teflon cups or is that a readily available part? Same question on the springs ,did you wind them or are they off the shelf?
Hi Vic
The teflon cups were turned up from 5/8" round teflon. The spring is from MSC, continuous spring just nipped to length.
Happy Model Building
Jack
Hello My Friends
Spent most of the day working on the USRA 0-6-0, the tender brake gigging to be precise. The top photo shows the brake cylinder with the adjustor clevis. This adjustor has #5-40 right and left hand threads so that the lock nut can be loosened and the central barrel turned to adjust the slop in the brake rigging. The brake cylinder was mounted up with #2-56 brass model bolts. The tender brake cylinder will be plumbed in with the locomotive driver brakes and the riding car. On a high line you can't dig your feet in if you get in a bind, so good brakes may prove valuable. 3/4" brake valves may be in the future, Andy, you will get the first two. The brakes will be air operated. The plan is to have a small 12 volt air compressor battery and reservoir built into the 4-3/4" gauge riding car for the engineer to follow along with. One ingenious fellow at Bittercreek uses a small paint ball gun reservoir ( about 10" long and 4" DIA. 2000 PSI ) regulated down to 40 PSI. and can operate his brakes all weekend with this set up. It can be recharged for about $4.00. Many different ways to skin a cat.
See you in the funny pages..
Jack