3/4" Scale Tender

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JBodenmann
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Post by JBodenmann »

Another
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JBodenmann
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Post by JBodenmann »

Coupler body, knuckle and pivot pin, and latch and eye screw. The latch was polished and case hardened for smooth operation. When you close the knuckle the pin drops "clink". You can't actually hear the clink as the coupler is way too small. It's a scale clink.
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JBodenmann
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Post by JBodenmann »

Last one for now.
Happy Model Building
Jack
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rwmorris
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Post by rwmorris »

Scale clinks!!! Nothing finer!

Home run Jack! So groovy..... So groovy!

Cheers,

Robert
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JBodenmann
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Post by JBodenmann »

Thanks Robert
Aren't them couplers cute! Time to drop the tender for a while and start whittling away on the cylinders which are sitting on the bench. Also have a piece of 4-1/2" copper tube for the boiler shell on the way. The drawing calls for a super heated boiler with a combustion chamber. Should be a real hot rod!
See you in the funny pages
Jack
prlawiii
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Post by prlawiii »

Jack,

Where do you get square broaches that small?

Herman,

Just starting an Allen Mogul, and just purchased a Marie Estelle to learn on
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JBodenmann
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Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
McMaster or MSC has stock broaches that size. I'm sure Rutland and other suppliers have them. I always buy DuMont broaches, US made, excellent quality. Get er' done!
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Bill Shields
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WLS 2010

Post by Bill Shields »

Would love to have you come to WLS - Mecca of 3/4" engines and the finest (and most challenging) elevated track in the USA.

Bring your Wellies though - when it rains, lake Waushakum suddenly appears and swallows the parking lot.

If you want to see some videos, YOU TUBE: "Joe NG WLS"
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JBodenmann
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Post by JBodenmann »

Hi Bill
WLS is right at the top of my list. I have spent a good bit of time watching U Tube vids of 3/4" scale trains. One of my favorites is the double headed 3/4" locomotives pulling a freight train at WLS. Ultra Cool!
Jack
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JBodenmann
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Post by JBodenmann »

Here are a couple tender photos, I like the look of the brass water hatch. The axle pump return line will be arranged so that when tearing along you can lift the hatch and se if the pump is pumping. I have been reading Shop Shed and Road and Curly talks about making small injectors. He makes it sound so easy that I may give it a try. There really isn't much to an injector. Curly talks about making the reamers and says two of them are not too critical as regards to shape, but the long skinny one has to be just right. According to him these tiny injectors are very reliable. No shortage of things to do!
Jack
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Superberky1204
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Brass Tender

Post by Superberky1204 »

Jack,

I have built several brass tenders in 1" and 1.5 inch scale. I just read your work on the 3/4 inch tender and wished I had some of your information when I did these tenders.

The easy thing I had was the use of the Clecos in the #39 holes and using 3/32 copper rivets. If I had made some different tools for riveting it sure would have been easier. One thing though, I riveted from the rear and used the buck tool on the heads. Plus I used all one size rivets.

The way you do things and present them for all of us in words and photos is appreciated greatly. It is great when folks in the hobby help others with different ideas that make it easier for folks with lesser knowledge.

Here is some photos of one I built last year. I may have to put them in several messages. And yes, There are always a couple leaks that need attention.

Your work on the Berkshire just blows my mind!!! Thanks for the encourgement.

Bruce Saylor, in PA.
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JBodenmann
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Post by JBodenmann »

Hi Bruce
Your tender looks great. There is a lot of work in a brass tender and a lot of thought, how do I make this thing hold water? Thanks for posting the photos.
Jack
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