Blackstone Valley Shops wrote:Maximum rail height, how big are your stones?
That's the funniest thing I've read on this forum... ever!
In Montreal I would just add that we have noticed our stones ride higher in the cold depths of winter and lower in the heat of the summer. Have you noticed this effect at PVLS?
A Founding Member of the Tinkerbell Scale Society - Northern Division
I'm an A.R.S.E. (Association of Railroad Steam Engineers)
Toad Swamp & Punk Hollow Railroad - Head Tycoon
The Juvenile Traction Company - CEO & Apprentice Machinist 3rd Class
White Mountain Central RR - Engineer & Fireman
Yes Jim, I've noticed the same down here in New England. I think It's caused by frost heaves!
When I wrote the afor mentioned quote I was thinking of a photo I'd seen a while back. Taken by A.W. during a meet at Danvers. I would not feel comfortable riding over that trestle.
Blackstone Valley Shops wrote:I was thinking of a photo I'd seen a while back. Taken by A.W. during a meet at Danvers. I would not feel comfortable riding over that trestle.
I know that guy! That's Jim Turnbull, my grandad running his freelanced Northern. I bought that engine years ago and ran it for a while. She's in my shop now and I am planing to do a full rebuild hopefully for the NJLS 50th in 2011.
That engine was owned by PVLS president Howard Crotty back in the day and then the Chichnni family of NJLS owned it. Some fellow in Maryland had it next, then I bought it.
A Founding Member of the Tinkerbell Scale Society - Northern Division
I'm an A.R.S.E. (Association of Railroad Steam Engineers)
Toad Swamp & Punk Hollow Railroad - Head Tycoon
The Juvenile Traction Company - CEO & Apprentice Machinist 3rd Class
White Mountain Central RR - Engineer & Fireman
Hello My Friends
I have started some drawings and done a little experimentation concerning the height of the rail head on the high line. At this point the plan is to have a rail height of 27-1/2". This height allows a 6 foot gomer riding on a flat car with no seat cushion to have his toes just barely touching the ground. If you need a little more clearance a seat cushion will do the trick. Brad ( the casting wizard ) is going to help to with some molds for the concrete uprights. The plan is to use pressure treated 2x6 timbers for the horizontal members with the concrete supports on six foot centers. Plastic ties and aluminum rail. A friend has access to a die for 5/8" hi rail. Hopefully the final survey and grading will be done by next summer. Ahh...a high line through the Tehachapi's
Too much fun!
Jack
I've only ridden behind Mel's engine at the GGLS on the high line, and I will have to say that at one or two spots I have to lift my legs up from hitting the ground. My legs however are little longer than most being almost 6' 4".
I've only sat sideways and often wondered if straddling would be more comfortable. I would certainly go dual gauge and ride on a 1" riding car vs 3/4".
Just one other thing that was not mentioned yet about the GGLS high line, it is triple gauge, can also run 2.5" gauge trains on it as well.
JBodenmann wrote: The plan is to use pressure treated 2x6 timbers for the horizontal members with the concrete supports on six foot centers. Jack
Hi Jack,
If I remember correctly most of the clubs in the Northeast use 5/4 lumber for the stringers. 2" lumber would be a bit stiff to bend for the curves. The 5/4 lumber has stood the test of time and will support some mighty heavy loads, (me for instance) and such beasties as the late Harry Quick's 1" scale N&W Y-6.
In between the uprights, most clubs use 4 x 4 stretchers in between the stringers for rigidity.
Keith
All though I’ve only rode the high line a few times in my day once at NJLS and last summer at Washakum. I noticed one thing. In New Jersey they have mostly pipe or utility poles for the uprights the new section is made with the concrete style support.
The concrete type generally are wider at the bottom and narrow at the top My experience with the concrete style is that my feet sometimes hit the support because it sticks out were as the single pipe support there is clearance for your feet.
Well you say “just stick your feet out past them”. I find that I need to use my feet for balance so sometimes I pull my legs in to achieve this, and that’s when my feet hit the support.
My suggestion if you chose to make cast concrete supports would be to scallop out the side that you ride on. Most tracks that I’ve seen, the engineer rides on the left side and the loop is mostly in a counter clockwise rotation. Turning to the right I would think your legs would extend out to maintain balance.
Any thoughts on this?
ALLWAYS OPERATING MY TRAIN IN A SAFE MANNER USING AUTOMATIC AIR BRAKES
With the foot pegs on my C-16 for ground running, I won't have to worry about my "GOMER" feet dragin' on the ground. I ran across an old youtube of you (mostly from behind) walking the property. Looks like a wonderful place to build a railroad- - - - Need any help?
Hello My Friends
Jack the gomer here. Yes I will be needing a lot of help to finish the track. I plan on getting the surveying and grading done first. Then a short section of test high line will be developed to get the recipe down. The turntable and some steaming bays will be made, a gaggle of concrete supports will be made and a good supply of materials will be on hand, and then a major work day will be arranged. One great concern of mine is safety, (I know, I know I hate that word ) so the track will be designed for straddle cars with anti tip rails. The concrete uprights will have steel studs to support the anti tip rails. The anti tip rails will be a good bit of extra work but in today's society with rampant litigation I will sleep better at night. Operators can still run side saddle if that is what you want but will be encouraged to ride on the 4-3/4" rails instead of 3-1/2". Some straddle cars will be provided so anyone can ride trains and also to provide a load for engines. I want the little railroad to be a friendly happy gathering place for friends and Model Builders to point and talk about, and run tiny steam locomotives. Plenty of room for tents and campers and motor homes and such. A camp fire, good food and old movies in the evening. The summer evenings and sunsets in Sand Canyon are truly wonderful we and look forward to a lot of night running. It is way out in the sticks and at night all you can hear are the crickets and coyotes, and eventually whistles. Too much fun!
Jack The Gomer
Been there, done that...got the stories of falling off too!
3.5 on the ground- well, if you are young & nimble, sure. Otherwise, it's going to be hard work for anyone to fire the engine. COALS track was like that. (2 images in the 3.5" loco collection, both taken at about the same point, of different engines)
3.5" elevated/ground combined: worst of all worlds. Don't do it. Makes for a very exciting ride. (I was on 5", and it still had nothing to commend it)
3.5" ground with 7.x to ride on/in: this is what I am planning for at home. (I have ~300 foot of grading done, but 2 young boys have interfered with the amount of time I have available to work on "optional" projects)
3.5" raised: Usually combined with 4.75/5", makes for fairly easy running. I have been known to ride in all kinds of attitudes including catapillar on raised track. Makes for relatively easy passenger pulling, using straddle type cars. I highly recommend the use of some form of side boards on the side you are riding on (if side saddle) or both (if straddle), as they make riding much easier. With 3.5" engines, expect to be able to pull about 10-12' of train (3-4 adults) as a reasonable load for a x6x or x8x engine. Expect to only pull the driver if a x4x engine. Depends extensively on grade- when I went to Hamilton (Golden Horseshoe) after running at Vancouver Island ME for 4 years, the famous comment of 'cor, it's all downhill here" was made, because our track features (?) a 1:40 section or so, where a tree root is slowly toppling it over.
Some words about construction methods:
Clubs seem to favour the 5/4 or 2x4/6 side board, with functional slotted ties on top. Experience suggests this construction method is good for about 20 years lifespan before extensive refurbishment is required. Other ways include all welded (Hamilton/TSME, ex Art Ellis), with 4" or 6" deep rails & welded cross spacers. This appears to have lasted well at Hamilton, where it has been in service for 25+ years. Ground level track with screws was used at the COALS track mentioned above, as well as at TSME in the distant past. I would believe the tie life would be the major limiting factor in this design. My plan is to use welded steel rail on plastic ties, similar to that used by VIME on 7.5" gauge. The trick is going to be a comprimise between current (construction) cost and upkeep.
