Disney American
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- Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2009 11:45 pm
- Location: Port Angeles, WA
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Re: Disney American
I love the throttle quadrant. Amazing work as always.
www.banninglocomotiveworks.com
www.littleengines.com
www.littleengines.com
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: Disney American
Hello My Friends
Here is an update on the little tea kettle. Lots of metal finishing and painting lately. Also all the polished bits have been gold and nickel plated. This first photo shows a general view of the cab with its oil can shelf and tiny oil can, both of which have been gold plated along with the pressure gauge housing and water glass shield. Still some bits to add like the firing quadrant for the propane burner. Also the 1870's Westinghouse brake valve for which I have the castings on hand but haven't put them together yet. I will be putting a gaggle of them together if anyone is interested. The second photo shows the cab roof with it's tern plate covering and ventilator hatch and adjusting mechanism. Also in this photo you can see the whistle valve operating lever. This lever is connected to the whistle valve which is located at to the right of the steam turret where it's steam line runs down the side of the boiler out the bottom of the cab to the whistle under the running board. The operating lever folds down into the ventilator hatch so the hatch cover can be closed when the engine is on display. This is a good set up for a whistle control as you can lean forward with you hand resting on the cab roof and play the whistle with your thumb while your right hand is on the throttle or brake. Too much fun!
Happy Model Building.
Jack
Here is an update on the little tea kettle. Lots of metal finishing and painting lately. Also all the polished bits have been gold and nickel plated. This first photo shows a general view of the cab with its oil can shelf and tiny oil can, both of which have been gold plated along with the pressure gauge housing and water glass shield. Still some bits to add like the firing quadrant for the propane burner. Also the 1870's Westinghouse brake valve for which I have the castings on hand but haven't put them together yet. I will be putting a gaggle of them together if anyone is interested. The second photo shows the cab roof with it's tern plate covering and ventilator hatch and adjusting mechanism. Also in this photo you can see the whistle valve operating lever. This lever is connected to the whistle valve which is located at to the right of the steam turret where it's steam line runs down the side of the boiler out the bottom of the cab to the whistle under the running board. The operating lever folds down into the ventilator hatch so the hatch cover can be closed when the engine is on display. This is a good set up for a whistle control as you can lean forward with you hand resting on the cab roof and play the whistle with your thumb while your right hand is on the throttle or brake. Too much fun!
Happy Model Building.
Jack
Re: Disney American
Inspirational, as always!
~RN
~RN
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: Disney American
Hello My Friends
Here are a couple new photos.
Happy Model Building
Jack
Here are a couple new photos.
Happy Model Building
Jack
Re: Disney American
My compliments on your beautiful locomotive.
I'm interested in one of your 1870s Westinghouse brake valves. When do you think they would be available? Is a drawing or photo or dimensional information available?
Also, I've read and reread you description of your boiler check and am too thick to understand O-ring retention method along with the poppet or ball seal arrangement. Would a sketch of the O-ring area be possible?
Thanks Dave
I'm interested in one of your 1870s Westinghouse brake valves. When do you think they would be available? Is a drawing or photo or dimensional information available?
Also, I've read and reread you description of your boiler check and am too thick to understand O-ring retention method along with the poppet or ball seal arrangement. Would a sketch of the O-ring area be possible?
Thanks Dave
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: Disney American
Hello My Friends
The Westinghouse brake valve castings are in hand now and I hope to get to them soon, I'm just not sure when. Also I must apologize for not finishing the description of the check valves. Dave mentioned them and I went back to look and saw that I never finished the thread. I'll try to get to it soon. That's what happens when you have an old Bozo ( Me ) with too many plates spinning.
See you in the funny pages...
Jack
The Westinghouse brake valve castings are in hand now and I hope to get to them soon, I'm just not sure when. Also I must apologize for not finishing the description of the check valves. Dave mentioned them and I went back to look and saw that I never finished the thread. I'll try to get to it soon. That's what happens when you have an old Bozo ( Me ) with too many plates spinning.
See you in the funny pages...
Jack
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: Disney American
Hello My Friends
Here is some more info on the check valves. The top photo shows the first operation of machining the poppet, which is to turn the part that slides up and down in the main body. The second photo shows the poppet with three cuts taken with a 3/16" round nose end mill. This is done with a spindex in the mill. Sorry no photo of this operation. These cuts stop within 1/16" of the hat section. The third photo shows the O ring fitted up. It just slides on and I have never had one come adrift. The bottom photo shows the little trick I was gabbing about. Leave a small boss on the top of the poppet so you can grab it with tweezers. Without this it is just about impossible to fish the poppet out of the body. It also helps to fit it in. I wish I could say I came up with this check valve design but I can't. I originally saw this on an Allen Models engine. I don't know if Gene came up with it or Harpur before him. Well any way it works really good. This design has a couple definite advantages. It is very forgiving to machine due to the flexibility of the O ring. It also isn't as vulnerable to contamination as a metallic ball or poppet on a metallic seat. I have a drawing of this check valve and I'll try to post it. I say try because I recently updated the operating system of the computer and now the scanner along with a few other things refuses to work. I hate computers . There is a reason I build steam locomotives!
See you in the funny pages...
Jack
Here is some more info on the check valves. The top photo shows the first operation of machining the poppet, which is to turn the part that slides up and down in the main body. The second photo shows the poppet with three cuts taken with a 3/16" round nose end mill. This is done with a spindex in the mill. Sorry no photo of this operation. These cuts stop within 1/16" of the hat section. The third photo shows the O ring fitted up. It just slides on and I have never had one come adrift. The bottom photo shows the little trick I was gabbing about. Leave a small boss on the top of the poppet so you can grab it with tweezers. Without this it is just about impossible to fish the poppet out of the body. It also helps to fit it in. I wish I could say I came up with this check valve design but I can't. I originally saw this on an Allen Models engine. I don't know if Gene came up with it or Harpur before him. Well any way it works really good. This design has a couple definite advantages. It is very forgiving to machine due to the flexibility of the O ring. It also isn't as vulnerable to contamination as a metallic ball or poppet on a metallic seat. I have a drawing of this check valve and I'll try to post it. I say try because I recently updated the operating system of the computer and now the scanner along with a few other things refuses to work. I hate computers . There is a reason I build steam locomotives!
See you in the funny pages...
Jack
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: Disney American
Hello My Friends
Here ia a drawing for a 2-1/2" scale check valve. The internals are the same as a 1-1/2" valve. Just make the outside to suit your needs.
Happy Model Building
Jack
Here ia a drawing for a 2-1/2" scale check valve. The internals are the same as a 1-1/2" valve. Just make the outside to suit your needs.
Happy Model Building
Jack
Re: Disney American
Thanks a bunch Jack!!
Re: Disney American
Ah-ha, now I get it. The O-ring is on the poppet. I had thought it was nested in the body.
Thank you Jack for the sketch.
Jack ( or anyone): Any preference on the O-ring material. Per McMaster-Carr in steam silicon is poor, Buna-N and Viton are not recommended. EPDM is good and Teflon rated excellent. Teflon is rather hard and may be a problem for sealing. Virgin Teflon also has no memory and may flow under the poppet steam pressure load. However, EPDM has a A70 durometer which is the same as Buna-N and nearly the same as Viton, and is similar in price to Viton.
Dave
Thank you Jack for the sketch.
Jack ( or anyone): Any preference on the O-ring material. Per McMaster-Carr in steam silicon is poor, Buna-N and Viton are not recommended. EPDM is good and Teflon rated excellent. Teflon is rather hard and may be a problem for sealing. Virgin Teflon also has no memory and may flow under the poppet steam pressure load. However, EPDM has a A70 durometer which is the same as Buna-N and nearly the same as Viton, and is similar in price to Viton.
Dave
Re: Disney American
Viton. But it should be high quality from a major mfg such as Parker or DuPont or else it might not last long. Better yet is AFLAS and Seals Eastern makes the real deal in-house properly. 80 durometer good but 90 durometer better if suitable in your application.