The Home Machinist!

Has anyone built and used the rivet squeezer shown in issue 20 of the Model Engine Builder magazine? The device was designed by Alan Suttie and resembles a large C clamp with a threaded rod that closes 2 six-inch long "Alligator" jaws. One of the jaws is part of the frame, and the other jaw is 1"x1" steel bar stock. At the end of the jaws are "snaps" which form the heads.

I am almost ready to rivet my tender together and can use an air hammer, but am interested in a quieter technique since I work late at night sometimes and my shop is close to the house (and my neighbors for that matter). An added bonus would be saved wear and tear on my compressor, no risk of deforming the metal, and saving my ringing ears...

As always any advice is appreciated!

Bill C.

I haven't completed mine, but i have the main frame just about complete and working on some of the other components. I'm hoping to complete it in the next 2 months or so. I'd have to let you know then. I really liked the idea of it having nice control while riveting. I'll try to post a picture when it's done.

Jared,

Thanks, I guess I'll go ahead and build one. Do keep us posted - I'll do the same if I finish mine first...

Regards,

Bill C.

that might work on small alum. rivets but fir steel ones i doubt it. they take a lot of force to flatten or form a head. you can try it in your bench vice to see how it works. also you will be limited by the jaw depth of the tool so it won't work down your vertical seams.

Aw, C'mon Fred! Steel is alot more cooperative when it's orange!

Seriously though, I'd be interested in hearing the results on this thing, I have the same problems at the OP.
I will say I worked aircraft assembly for a number of years, we had all sorts of rivet squeezers, and the pneumatic alligator was the last one you reached for, it had a tendency to bend rivets due to the jaws not being parallel. Ours also "snapped" closed because of the triggering mechanism, which would not be a problem here.

I'm also curious if anyone has tried hot riviting with small (like 1/8" dia) rivs - seems like they would not hold the heat very well.

Rudd

why would painting them orange help? LOL

My plan was for quite small rivets in brass and aluminum. I've had thoughts of the hot steel rivets too, so we'll see what happens... whenever i do finish it.

I built my Mogul cab and tender with a rivet squeezer. 1/8" steel rivets cold were no problem but when you do a lot of them in a setting your arms get really sore. The ones in a seam had to be done with an air gun. I had to make my own set but you can buy a ready made one at your local China tool store.

John

I appreciate all the feedback. I found a photo of the actual item, taken by Carl Carlsen and posted on the web along with his photos from the GEARS show. Here is a link, and I'll attach the photo below:

http://www.pbase.com/captain_carl/image/118493324

Since my raw stock stash has enough steel to make this thing, I do think I'll go for it. I hate that it will slow me up on getting the loco done, though. A new project is not really procrastination, though. Maybe a good word would be projectcrastination?

Cheers,

Bill C.

Looks interesting.. but it looks like the screw is at a mechanical disadvantage to the jaws, which is fine, if it works I suppose. I can think of mechanisms to get that advantage back, at the cost of a slightly bulkier squeezer with a few more moving parts. Also would cost some jaw travel. On the last item, our rivet squeezers at the plant had small screw-in sets that could be adjusted to provide the correct opening at full travel.


I think the first thing I would be thinking of is how to hook up an impact gun or air ratchet to it, which of course is going to make some noise.

Looks like used aircraft pneumatic squeezers are around a couple hundred bux on e-pay.

yeah, if the screw was just up higher, closer to the punch/die it would have more push with the present design. also i would think the screw should be a grade 8 bolt rather than machined from hex stock.

If the screw was higher up the tool could not reach into close quarters.

Orrin

no, the screw does not pass through the two levers; it just pushes against one of them. look at the pic and click on it to see a larger version.

Fred - good point about the hex stock screw. I think I have an extra gear puller screw, and may try using that (need to see if I have a tap with the proper thread size). Presumably the gear puller screw is hardened, so it would save some fab time and I could just put a ratchet wrench on the top to drive it (or an air wrench if the family is awake!).

I need to have you over to my shop soon to see the finished brakes on the tender!

Bill C.

Here is my simple rivet squeezing tool and a drawing for it. I riveted my all brass RRSC tender with it without any problems.

The basic instructions:

1) Use a little grease on the rivet head anvil. This will prevent galling of the head when squeezing.
2)Do not try to form a complete head on the shank end of the rivet. This tool will expand the end enough to give good holding power.
3)Do not over tighten or the head anvil will cut into the sheet causing an unsightly mark on the finished tank.
3A) When making the head anvil,(anvil made with the screw) The cup depth should be slightly less than the overall height of the rivet head. This should prevent the anvil from cutting into the tank sheet.
4)Make a test piece using the materials and rivet you intend to use. This will give you a feel for the tool and help you decide what rivet length to use before making your finished tank.
5)As you are riveting, you may need to trim areas of the body of the tool to provide clearance for the tight spots such as in corners. You will notice in the photo, I had to do this on my tool.

For reference, I used a 3/32" diameter brass rivet with a 3/16" diameter head.The shank was 1/4" long and most of the riveting was done through .040" brass and 1/8" thick angle totaling .165". I drilled the holes with a 3/32" drill which produced a .094"-.095" diameter hole. When squeezed, the rivets expanded to completely fill the hole and provide a "semi" head on the expanded end. The user should compensate for different material thicknesses.

Results:

Basic riveting procedure that I used with good results.

Drill all of the holes in the tank sheets before bending to shape. Mount all of the bottom angle stock to the tender floor with brass screws. After forming the corners, clamp the sheets to the angles using small "C" clamps.. Using the holes in the sheet for a guide, drill every fourth hole. Then use #3-48 screws and nuts through these holes to hold the tank sheets in position. Start at one end of a row of holes and put the screws in as you go along. Now go back and drill and rivet every other hole. Then drill and rivet the holes inbetween. Finally, remove the screws and rivet these remaining holes. This will prevent the sheets from warping as you expand the rivets. Repeat this procedure for all vertical rows of rivets. Mount top angle pieces and repeat procedure once again. After riveting, all seams should be soft soldered to prevent leaks.