Tapered Pins and Bolts

[Asteamhead]

For use within crossheads and conection rods, too, tapered bolts or sleeves are fine, not just with the prototype. Every sort of tapered press fit will remove unwanted backlash. They can be disassembled very easily in case the taper is o.k. (around 5 deg.).
When using ball bearings, tapered bolts will be a great improvement.
Please see some exapmles.

With best regards from asteamhead

[Loco112]

Do you have the other ALCO drawings for the frame bolts?

Thanks

Tim

I do have those, but the PC that I need to access it is on the fritz. In a few months I should have it accessable again. Remind me later and I will get it to you. Loco112

[FLtenwheeler]

Do you have the other ALCO drawings for the frame bolts?

Thanks

Tim

I do have those, but the PC that I need to access it is on the fritz. In a few months I should have it accessable again. Remind me later and I will get it to you. Loco112

Thanks

Tim

[Curtis_F]

Do you have the other ALCO drawings for the frame bolts?

Tim,

I've looked through the ALCO standards books and that page really is it for dimensional information about bolts themselves. The other pages and bits of info scattered about deal with stuff like: If the loco has X tractive effort, then for the frame cradle use Y number of Z diameter bolts, and the ilk.

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Cheers,
Curtis F.

[Fred_V]

What do you guys think of Tapered Bolts in the hard working parts taht sometimes see some shock loading, on grand scale locomotives, or even full scale locomotives?

I've had problems with the crosshead wrist pin on another engine so when I built the 3-3/4" scale engine for commercial passenger hauling I didn't want problems. Here's a drawing of what I did.

I mounted the crossheads on the lathe and bored the taper using the compound. The pins are drill rod and were machined using the same setting for a perfect fit. I built 2 of these engines so it was worth the effort to setup and make 4 of them.