10 Wheeler Rob wrote:The axle pump on the prints is will provide most of the water needed but is marginal in its sizing. This I confirmed with both caculation and the operqting experance of mogal operating at our club.
If you want the ability to run solely on axle pump(s) capacity I would recomend either increasing it to 5/8" bore form 1/2" or going with dual 1/2" pumps.
As mentioned previously one ejector will give you the capacity needed, a second the back up needed or safe operation. Ejectors have the advantage of being mounted where they can be easily maintained.
Rob
I built my pump to print, and it works great. Just the right amount of water. I ran my engine for 2 years with just the axle pump. I did have a hand pump but never needed it.
Tim
He who dies with the most unfinished projects: Should of put more time into their hobby.
Jeff,
I've got (4) ways to get water into my 10 wheeler boiler...
1) injector
2) axle pump
3) steam powered pump (needs to be rebuilt...eats steam for very little water output), and
4) tender hand pump (sometimes used to fill boiler with water before firing if I've treated the water beforehand).
Some clubs require you have (2) means of getting water into the boiler. As such, (2) injectors would satisfy that requirement. My injector is a Superscale...and other than the check valve sticking after the loco has sat for a week or so...OR...sediment clogging the holes inside the injector...it's worked when I needed it (never leave the steaming bay without making sure the injector works).
When I have newbies on the loco...I close the bypass valve on the axle pump and have them run the "training circle". Since I didn't build the loco, I don't know if my pump is a stock Allen pump or not. I give the eccentric a shot or two of grease during the season and maybe squirt some oil on the ram now and then. It's work whenever I needed it.
Since there's no smokebox pre-heat coil on the axle pump line, I use the pump occasionally to pump ambient water into the boiler to cool the boiler and shut the safety valve. Without a pre-heater coil, that cold water is a tremendous drain on the amount of energy in the boiler. Think about it...every revolution of the drivers there's a squirt of ambient water going into the boiler. That water will eventually be heated...but first it helps to lower the pressure and shut the safety valve. I know that sounds backwards...but if you always run with a non-heated axle pump feed...you've got to compensate for steam generation in other ways. Make sense? Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
I have a number of pumps like the these in various stages of completion (or parts) for locos in 7.5 (7.25) & 5".
They were from the legacy of a wellknown Life Steamer her in the UK, who sadly passed away.
If anybody is interested, send me an email.
Johannes (aka the "Yorkshireman", but not the tug boat in Hull)
... i've never seen a guided ram design for an axle pump.
till today, here you can see it
doublehead_pump_kl.jpeg
Best Dietrich
Dietrich
Interesting design.
There's no obvious way to get that right
hand cylinder half into the pump stay.
Kap
Fadal Turn, Fadal Vmc 15, Prototrak 16 x 30 Cnc Lathe, Pratt and Whitney 16 x 54 lathe, Pratt and Whitney Vertical Shaper, G & E 16" Shaper, B & O Electric turret lathe, 36" Doall band saw,
Enco B.P. Clone, Bridgeport CNC Mill, Delta 12" Surface Grinder.
Listen to Cbrew and Trainman. Two Superscale injectors is all I use. I pulled my axle pump off my ten-wheeler a couple of years ago and I would never waste my time with a tender hand pump. Axle pump wastes energy. If you can't do it with one injector from Superscale, (not to mention two!!) then...........
