The Home Machinist!

looks good. after running mine 3 times now i'm very pleased with the engine.

_________________
Fred V
Pensacola, Fl.
home track:
http://www.waleswest.com

Hi All,
Haven't made much progress because of my wife has been in & out of hospital with problems with her pregnancy of our first kid. Also winter storms making it to cold to go out to the workshop!

Anyway have made a start on then motion brackets, taking them to work tomorrow to cut out and grind to rough size on the big bench grinder. Today picked up a metric tap & die set sized M3 to M12 for $40NZD (about $31USD).

Jeffrey

Motion bracket started


Tap & die set

Hi All,

Had the day off work so I managed to get so time on the Sweet William build...

Finished the motion brackets, I had a set back with them a week or so back, roughed them out at work and then had them at home looking at them and figured out that I had made a mistake in marking them out and had the hole for mount for the end of the slide bar in the wrong place... had to take them to work and weld up the hole. Also today forgot to put the radius in one corner, time will tell if this is going to be a problem.

Jeffrey

Roughed out be with a mistake


2nd time round


Drilling the mounting holes in the mount


Fitted to the chassis

The book calls for using rivets for assembling much of the frame and spacers together, but it looks like you used bolts for nearly everything. Was there a reason why? I am getting ready to layout some of the frame metal and was going to use rivets myself but thought I would ask.

_________________
"One cannot learn to swim without getting his feet wet." - Benjamin Maggi
- Building: 7.25" gauge "Sweet Pea" named "Catherine"

Ben, would that be the Sweet Pea book? rivets are used mostly on the prototype British engines. the guy that started my SW used bolts; mostly 10-32 for the frame parts. i'm not saying that is right or wrong just what he did.

_________________
Fred V
Pensacola, Fl.
home track:
http://www.waleswest.com

Hi,

I've used bolts for one major reason and that is it's easy to get bolts where I live and impossible to get rivets the right size with out buying them from overseas or one of the major citys here in NZ (if you can get them in NZ). From what I have seen on the internet it would be a 50/50 spilt on bolt or rivet use. There is no reason bolts can't be used with care. Guess it comes down to which one you like or is easy for you.

Jeffrey

Hi All,

Have made some progress on the Sweet William, the number of holes in the chassis without anything in them is slowly getting less...

First photo is the one spring bracket I have made, cut down from 1"x1"x3/16" to 3/4"x3/4"x3/16" by hacksaw and file, then drilled and tapped, it took just over 1 hour for it, so 4 spring brackets will be 4 hours work.


Firebox support brackets


Cab support for the back of the cab


Over view of progress as of about a week ago (end of June)

Hi All,

Spent the afternoon in the shed, Have now cut and shaped all the parts for the Reversing stand support bracket out of 6mm MS plate by hand, just have to weld it together and drill the last holes in it. It should have holes to mount the hand pump on it but I'm only going to have 2 injectors on the loco when finished.

Jeffrey

Hi All,

Reversing support bracket is all welded up now.

Going back a bit to your frames, how did you lay out the cylinder center lines? I am confused where to locate the "starting point" for the center line for the cylinders. On the plan on pages 5-6 of the book, they show it originating in the rear horn opening and say on page 5 that it is "the line between the cylinder centre and the rear axle center." The horn openings are marked 2.125" tall, and another line is marked 1" tall (dimensions are for the 5" gauge engine)

Neither dimension is listed in the horn that actually has the line originate from it. HELP! How tall from the lower frame should I have the line start? Since I am building a Sweet William, I will use the answer to determine the proper location for my engine.

My frames are nearly done being drilled for the holes but I am unsure how to mark the "starting point" for the cylinder center line.

_________________
"One cannot learn to swim without getting his feet wet." - Benjamin Maggi
- Building: 7.25" gauge "Sweet Pea" named "Catherine"

Hi,

I'll quickly answer this but I'll go into more tonight after I get home from work if you need more.

From the front of the chassis it is 14 3/8" to the C/line of the front axle and then it is 13 5/16 "to the C/line of the rear axle. Front axle box opening is marked as 3 3/16" high by 2 1/2" wide the height of the axle C/line is marked as being 1 1/2" above the bottom of the chassis.

As there was no sizes showing for the rear axle box opening I have marked it out with the same size as the front.

When you have found the Center point for the rear axle ( 1 1/2" above the bottom of the chassis ON the axle C/line) you mark a line that is 2 5/8" above the bottom of the chassis in the area where the cylinder will be. Next draw a line from the rear axle center point that meets the line in the cylinder area that is 2 5/8 above the bottom of the chassis, this line has to be 20 13/16 long.

The 20 13/16" long line is fixed at the axle center point and you work on it till the point were it is 20 13/16" is on the 2 5/8" line in the cylinder area, where the two meet is the center point for the cylinder, all marking out from then on uses the 20 13/16 line as the datum e.g. all should be parallel too or 90 deg off that line and not the bottom of the frame.

Hope that helps.

Jeffrey

Jeff,
Thanks for the response. This is what I was interested in. The plans and the book don't actually say that the centerline for the cylinders is 1.5" from the bottom of the chassis. They draw a line 1.5" up from the bottom, but they drew it in the other horn area, which in my mind was a bit confusing if not stupid. I was going to try and scale the plans to see if that 1.5" shown in the leading horn area was the same dimension as the starting point for the cylinder centerline, but then realized that the drawings probably shouldn't be scaled from. I couldn't see any other reason to draw the 1.5" line from the plans, so I sort of hoped it was the answer to my question.

Thanks for your help!

_________________
"One cannot learn to swim without getting his feet wet." - Benjamin Maggi
- Building: 7.25" gauge "Sweet Pea" named "Catherine"