steamin10 wrote:WOW! your suggestion of not fixing a fault goes against everything I know, especially the statement of 'do not solder- again'.
Clearly, this is a "religious" issue with some folks and I was not intending to start some kind of flame war. Everyone is entitled to their opinion. Gwrdriver has built plenty of copper boilers of varying sizes and is entitled to his opinion on the issue ... just as you are entitled to yours.
My personal view is that since I have no idea what solder was originally used (thus, I don't know the melt temperature) and the manufacturer (Cheddar Models, UK) is no longer in business to ask. I would think it prudent to avoid trying to re-solder to fix the issue as it could cause more problems than it might fix. If it is really caused by some burnt or hardened flux, then it is also possible that any reheating or re-solder would not solve the problem anyway. I attended a holiday party for one of my local clubs on Saturday and most of them were surprised that I wanted to fix the leak (more of a weep) in the first place. Most of them thought it would seal up on it's own because of solids disolved in the our water anyway. (I know that would be true back in Ohio on my well water!)
I will be having a deeper discussion with the boiler inspector for the Colorado Live Steamers about his feelings on the matter. I will attempt the punch repair, if that does not work, I will see if it will stop up on it's own.
BTW, the 1924 ASME code boiler on my traction engine is sound, but the fittings leak like a sieve until she warms up. After that, she is tight as a drum.