Building a Power Model Water Pump
- Bill Shields
- Posts: 10589
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:57 am
- Location: 39.367, -75.765
- Contact:
Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump
yes - doesn't have to be bronze - brass will work.
this is what I did with a porous casting
I didn't fool with locite for this, I just heated the casting and froze the sleeve and in it went.
this is what I did with a porous casting
I didn't fool with locite for this, I just heated the casting and froze the sleeve and in it went.
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump
Cost. You won't see the sleeve so it can be cast iron.Fred_V wrote:why cast iron for the sleeve? why not bronze? would it work to Loctite it in?
Have you seen how much a 6" long piece of 1.500" brass (or bronze) costs these days?
Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump
Just make sure you store the locomotive with the pump dry! My dad spent an entire summer rebuilding his locomotive as a kid because the cast iron piston sleeves had rusted the piston in place. Even though he always blew the locomotive out with compressed air after each run, he made sure that he added extra oil from then on!
3/4" scale LBSC Bantam Cock
3/4" scale B4 project (re-designed LBSC Juliet)
- Stuart T. Harrod -
3/4" scale B4 project (re-designed LBSC Juliet)
- Stuart T. Harrod -
- Bill Shields
- Posts: 10589
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:57 am
- Location: 39.367, -75.765
- Contact:
Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump
exactly why I went with brass - pitting...
it is almost impossible to get these things dry.
it is almost impossible to get these things dry.
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump
Got the steam cylinder sleeve just about finished up this morning. The weather is so nice out I'm going to step outside for a bit and enjoy it!
Cast bronze, courtesy of Rich_D
Setup the cylinder in the 4-jaw and bored out an extra 0.9375"
Closeup of the steam passage that's the cause of all this extra work
Turning a mandrel to machine the sleeve on
Turning the ID of the bronze sleeve to match the mandrel
Turning the OD of the bronze sleeve with it mounted on the mandrel for a press fit into the cylinder
Cylinder and sleeve, ready to be pressed together
Pressing the sleeve in
Nearly finished. Last step is to put it back in the 4-jaw and bore the ID back out to 1.375" and then face off the extra sleeve material on the top end of the cylinder
Cast bronze, courtesy of Rich_D
Setup the cylinder in the 4-jaw and bored out an extra 0.9375"
Closeup of the steam passage that's the cause of all this extra work
Turning a mandrel to machine the sleeve on
Turning the ID of the bronze sleeve to match the mandrel
Turning the OD of the bronze sleeve with it mounted on the mandrel for a press fit into the cylinder
Cylinder and sleeve, ready to be pressed together
Pressing the sleeve in
Nearly finished. Last step is to put it back in the 4-jaw and bore the ID back out to 1.375" and then face off the extra sleeve material on the top end of the cylinder
Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump
curious as to what happened here.
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump
Sidetracked with other projects, such as my scratch built hopper carPipescs wrote:curious as to what happened here.
The pump is still in progress and I'll be getting back to it soon. The last work I did was to make a mounting plate for the valve chest casting so I can set it up in any orientation and have it be square from any angle.
Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump
Back on this project again... finished fixing my goof on the steam side of the pump from earlier (the hole that drifted). After sleeving the bore I drilled the passage (correctly!) from the opposite end, intersecting the previous hole.
Then machined the slot that connects the passage to the bottom end of the cylinder.
(sorry for the terrible photos -- I cannot locate my flash diffuser for my camera)
Next up I'll finish my fixture to hold the valve casting and start machining it.
Then machined the slot that connects the passage to the bottom end of the cylinder.
(sorry for the terrible photos -- I cannot locate my flash diffuser for my camera)
Next up I'll finish my fixture to hold the valve casting and start machining it.
Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump
Did you ever get your pump going?
David
David
Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump
This darn thing is still sitting on the workbench unfinished. I really, really need to get back on it and get it on the mogul. The English injector I have on the fireman's side right now is pretty much useless and I need to get the pump done.
Married life, career change, and various other things have kept me from having my normal amount of shop time the last couple years. I've also been working on more urgent things than the pump. Perhaps once I finish the current project, replacing the Allen mogul loco brakes with equalized brakes, I'll get back on this.
Married life, career change, and various other things have kept me from having my normal amount of shop time the last couple years. I've also been working on more urgent things than the pump. Perhaps once I finish the current project, replacing the Allen mogul loco brakes with equalized brakes, I'll get back on this.