Building a Power Model Water Pump

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John_S
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Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump

Post by John_S »

Started on the steam gland tonight:
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There's a very small internal bore for the o-ring that still needs to be done and then part it off:
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Spent half the evening machining that and the other half making the tiny boring tool out of HSS. Tomorrow I should be able to bore that internal o-ring groove on this gland and machine up the gland for the water end as well.
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John_S
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Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump

Post by John_S »

Still moving along...

Finished grinding my wee little boring tool to do the internal bore for the o-ring in the steam and water glands. Hate machining in a place where you cannot see the tool or what's happening!
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The steam and water glands finished up, other than some light deburring and smoothing:
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The glands temporarily installed in the spacer:
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Wish I didn't have to work for a living. I'd get more done each night!
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John_S
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Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump

Post by John_S »

Steam piston, machined from brass. I didn't have any 1.375" 303 stainless, which is what the print calls for. Brass will do:
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Piston finished up:
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The small reversing plates, one goes in the steam piston and the other in the head assembly:
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And got started on the piston rod. Started with a piece of 303 0.250" SS which had to be turned down to .219"
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Bill Shields
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Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump

Post by Bill Shields »

you better get it very smooth and very straight and even.

that rod goes through an o-ring, and if there are any binds or leaks, the pump won't work.

if it is rough, it will wear the o-ring quickly and the pump won't run.

I admire your tenacity, but even with a CNC Swiss style (sliding headstock) lathe at my disposal, I just purchased a piece of ground rod.
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
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John_S
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Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump

Post by John_S »

Bill Shields wrote:you better get it very smooth and very straight and even.

that rod goes through an o-ring, and if there are any binds or leaks, the pump won't work.

if it is rough, it will wear the o-ring quickly and the pump won't run.

I admire your tenacity, but even with a CNC Swiss style (sliding headstock) lathe at my disposal, I just purchased a piece of ground rod.
Actually, it goes through two o-rings, one in the steam cylinder gland and one in the water cylinder gland :)
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Bill Shields
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Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump

Post by Bill Shields »

ah...i thought it was the trip rod....sorry.

same concern....
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John_S
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Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump

Post by John_S »

The trip rod I bought material that is already the correct dimension, so there should be no problems with it.

Bill, have you had a chance to snap a photo of your jig for machining the valve body yet? I've been holding off doing any work on it until I got a chance to see what you had come up with.

Thanks!
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Harold_V
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Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump

Post by Harold_V »

John_S wrote: Started with a piece of 303 0.250" SS which had to be turned down to .219"
Indications are you're using a C5 or C6 grade of brazed carbide. You'll have much better success using a C2.

Trust me on this one. I've machined several times my weight in 303 SS.

Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
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Bill Shields
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Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump

Post by Bill Shields »

yes

it is a 5 sided box that allows me to remove any side and still have 'normal' surfaces to work with when machining. the pin in the center of the 'flange face' is my 0 0 point for all measurements.

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Bill C
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Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump

Post by Bill C »

Bill, thanks for posting those photos! With a casting like that, I can sure see the utility of the box. Very neat idea, I have saved the photos in my "someday I will need this" folder!

Thanks again,

Bill C.
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John_S
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Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump

Post by John_S »

Harold_V wrote:Indications are you're using a C5 or C6 grade of brazed carbide. You'll have much better success using a C2.

Trust me on this one. I've machined several times my weight in 303 SS.

Harold
The C5 is working nicely, but I'll give a C2 a shot on the next SS part and see how it goes. The piston rod turned out with an exceptionally fine finish on it.
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Fred_V
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Re: Building a Power Model Water Pump

Post by Fred_V »

John_S wrote:The trip rod I bought material that is already the correct dimension, so there should be no problems with it.

Bill, have you had a chance to snap a photo of your jig for machining the valve body yet? I've been holding off doing any work on it until I got a chance to see what you had come up with.

Thanks!
in the casting set I have Art Olds machined a brass block with all the holes and openings. He was going to cut a new flat head and silver the block to it. He thought that would be a lot easier than using the casting. I have the head casting so I would like to try making it; I can always fall back on the brass block.
Fred V
Pensacola, Fl.
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