L.E. American rod end problem

[David Powell]

A very long time ago I was visiting a steam contractors shop and the need urgently arose for a long " Push Pole" to rescue a truck stuck in a ditch. An ancient blacksmith was fetched out of retirement, and I was given the job of " Bellows Boy" We heated the broken ends of two short push poles in the forge to a bright red, then the strikers ( Dad and the Plant owner) flattened them on the anvil, we then reheated them and they were hammered together, the resulting bulge was hammered several times with several reheats and I distinctly remember the old fellow telling me to slow down lest we overheat the job. The pole was left to cool down while we all had a cup of tea, then was sent off post haste. A couple of hours later the tow truck with the wreck on the bar pulled in the yard. I was told that " Fire Welding " if done properly made a much stronger job than electric welding for some applications. Hope this is of interest, if not exactly relevant. Regards David Powell.

[kapullen]

Tom Terming of traction engine fame told me a Babbitt bushing ran quieter, and with
Less pounding, on his Case 65 models, and real engines, because it is a softer material than bronze.

Cass scenic railway still use babbit on it's locomotives in some applications. We had a discussion about
This with their machinist a couple months ago.

Kap

[Curtis_F]

Just for reference, here's a Baldwin drawing with an origin circa 1870 for the Back End Stub of the No.1 (Main) Rod. The table of sizes says this design was used with Crank Pins 3" to 4" in diameter. There are notes on the drawing that it was redrawn and updated several times over the years and used through the 1930s.

[The extension tif has been deactivated and can no longer be displayed.]

Cheers,

Curtis F.

[DianneB]

Just for reference, here's a Baldwin drawing with an origin circa 1870 for the Back End Stub of the No.1 (Main) Rod. The table of sizes says this design was used with Crank Pins 3" to 4" in diameter. There are notes on the drawing that it was redrawn and updated several times over the years and used through the 1930s.

All of the pictures I can find of early 4-4-0 (originals) all show straps and brasses as well so I guess that was the most common style.

If I had a milling machine, I would consider changing all the rods, though the brass IS pretty and the average Joe has no clue that the original engines didn't use brass rods LOL!

[10 Wheeler Rob]

Diane,

I have seen many rods that were just bored & bushed, and then a strap was wrapped & bolted around the out side and some surface lines (grooves) added to give the look of the proto types. Pressed in round bushings are real easy to replace as well when they are worn.

Rob

[FLtenwheeler]

Just for reference, here's a Baldwin drawing with an origin circa 1870 for the Back End Stub of the No.1 (Main) Rod. The table of sizes says this design was used with Crank Pins 3" to 4" in diameter. There are notes on the drawing that it was redrawn and updated several times over the years and used through the 1930s.

All of the pictures I can find of early 4-4-0 (originals) all show straps and brasses as well so I guess that was the most common style.

If I had a milling machine, I would consider changing all the rods, though the brass IS pretty and the average Joe has no clue that the original engines didn't use brass rods LOL!

Hi

Make the straps out of steel or SS and have them gold plated.

Tim

[Curtis_F]

I have seen many rods that were just bored & bushed, and then a strap was wrapped & bolted around the out side and some surface lines (grooves) added to give the look of the proto types. Pressed in round bushings are real easy to replace as well when they are worn

Here's an image of how I was shown to do rod ends by Erich Thompson. He made the ends with the head and strap as one piece, through bored for needle bearings, then a light cut taken on the show side to give the impression of a strap. Holes are drilled through vertically for some off-the-shelf bolts to be put through and double nutted. Then he put on rectangular brass thrust plates which are kept from spinning by inserting some brass rod through them. Not shown is how he made fake take-up Wedges. Basically it just the top and bottom of the Wedge held in place by steel dowels.

My apologies for not showing a photo of the real finished rods as the engines are in storage.

Cheers,

Curtis F.

[DianneB]

Curtis - That's pretty much the way the L.E. drawings show. I don't know why the original builder did with open ends, maybe to be able to shim the bearing blocks. I also don't know why he used steel blocks on steel pins when brass would have been much better.

[Comstock-Friend]

Here are some more phototype photos, Central Pacific Shops, Sacramento practice, 1873 (V&T #18 'Dayton' NSRM on loan to Virginia City Historical Society, Virginia City, NV).

John Friend

[DianneB]

It looks like those straps were either machined from solid or forged.

I like the way they are done in any event.

[c.p.huntington]

The main rod of my C. P. Huntington has the same dimensions as your American. The
main rod on my locomotive is an aluminum casting with a bushing pressed in. The strap
was made by bending a strip of steel to the proper shape and has miniature bolts
to hold it in place. The attached photo is a tad fuzzy but will give you an idea of how
it all goes together. The "cap" that screws into the end of the crank pin and keeps the
rod from slipping off was removed prior to making the photo.

C. P. Huntington

[DianneB]

Thanks C.P. - that's the way it is shown in the L.E. drawing.

I am not sure why mine was made differently but it will be modified to a stronger design when the steaming season is over.

(It ran fine with the repaired rod end yesterday, despite the near freezing temperature and chilly west wind.)