Axle Pump Assist Needed

[ccvstmr]

Geez, lots of ideas and input. Thank you all for commenting. Want to get over to the shop where my loco is at and hopefully extract the axle pump. The hardest part as I see it...is breaking the water connects to the boiler check valve and the bypass line back to the tender. Will probably have to drag out the crow foot wrenches for the flare nut connections. Otherwise, it "should" be straight forward. Will keep you posted and try to get some pix. Carl B.

[RET]

Hi,

Personally, I like "O" rings for many applications including ball check seats, but that is just my preference.

Axle pumps can be quite reliable, but if you have the space, I would put in two smaller ones with the eccentrics 180 degrees out of phase. This does two things: first, if one packs up the other still works, and second since they are 180 degrees out of step and not too big, the pump pulses aren't noticeable (jerky running) when one or both pumps are working. If they are sized properly, one pump running steadily could supply the boiler's needs most of the time.

If the input check valve doesn't seal properly (or even the discharge), the pump just doesn't work, but both checks would have to fail before you could get any backflow through the pump. Since the axle pump bypass is connected on the pump output, a boiler check valve is also necessary.

Its always a good idea to have several ways of putting water in the boiler. Usually these are a hand pump, an axle pump and one or more injectors. I must admit that having to use a hand pump to supply water to the boiler gets old very fast.

There are many ways to solve design problems and many of the choices are just a matter of individual preference and experience.

Richard Trounce.

[cp4449]

In my hand pump the SS balls would get stuck. I replaced them with ceramic balls and have not had a problem

[ccvstmr]

CP....I usually look for a cause/effect rationale for doing things. As such, I've got to ask: 1) did you ever determine WHY the stainless steel check valve balls would stick? and 2) what kind of ceramic balls did you select and install? There are several different types available. An inquiring mind would like to know? Thanx. Carl B.

[Joe Tanski]

To prevent your check valves from sticking on the boiler and in Pumps just use some RV antifreeze
(The RV pink stuff which is drinking water safe) after each run just pump some in the lines
And your sticking check valves will go away.also before you run next time, just pump a little water into boiler and drain a little off out of the blow down. The RV antifreeze will not harm anything and it will not
Foam in the boiler when steamed. The antifreeze coats the check valves and will not dry like water with all the calcium in it
Been using this method for over 20 years and have never had any problems with sticking check valves.have used it with ceramic, stainless steel,and bronze balls and just works great. Here in the north east (Buffalo NY) the pink RV antifreeze is on sale for about $2.00 a gal)
Good and cheep.i also use a Kitchen Turkey baster to put antifreeze in the lines works simple
Try it you will like it
Yours in steam
Joe

[Fred_V]

That's a really good idea as it also puts antifreeze in the copper tubes that you cannot drain. Winter is coming.

[Joe Tanski]

Yes it also works for preventing freeze up this Fall &Winter . I have use it in both copper boilers and steel
I like it because we tend to run late in the fall here in western NewYork (October -November)
And it is a nice piece of Mind knowing my girls are protected when I wake up and it 29 degrees outside
.
Joe