Small lathe grinder
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Small lathe grinder
I have wanted to make this small grinder holder for a while.
I had two angle plates for at least 30 years and they just came like if I had ordered them for this project.
They were perfect to hold this little Sears grinder for small precise jobs or grinding tool bits.
I still have to paint them of the same color as the machine, olive green.
I wanted to share the pictures plus show the vise that I bought after I returned the Grizzly that broke on me brand new.
I had two angle plates for at least 30 years and they just came like if I had ordered them for this project.
They were perfect to hold this little Sears grinder for small precise jobs or grinding tool bits.
I still have to paint them of the same color as the machine, olive green.
I wanted to share the pictures plus show the vise that I bought after I returned the Grizzly that broke on me brand new.
Quite nice Jose,
Those angle plates will make for a very solid setup by all appearances.
I just love it when I get to use something I have had for years and never used, as in your case.
I have been cautioned by others to be sure and protect the lathe ways with some sort of apron to collect the dust as this grinding dust is obviously very abrasive and will in time cause damage. Seemed to make sense to me.
Ken
Those angle plates will make for a very solid setup by all appearances.
I just love it when I get to use something I have had for years and never used, as in your case.
I have been cautioned by others to be sure and protect the lathe ways with some sort of apron to collect the dust as this grinding dust is obviously very abrasive and will in time cause damage. Seemed to make sense to me.
Ken
Very neat little setup. I've considered making such a thing (based on pics I've seen), but other than once mounting a "pencil" grinder in a QC boring bar holder, I've been very reluctant to run a grinder on my lathe. Too many scary stories I guess...
Man, I would be all puckered up over that boring setup. Not that it wouldn't hold, limited in rpm sufficiently, but I just hate the thought of that much off-center weight AND a boring bar hanging out that far.
Man, I would be all puckered up over that boring setup. Not that it wouldn't hold, limited in rpm sufficiently, but I just hate the thought of that much off-center weight AND a boring bar hanging out that far.
Russ
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Thank you guys!!!
Ken_Shea:
"I have been cautioned by others to be sure and protect the lathe ways with some sort of apron"
Yes, I've heard that since I can remember.
Never had to run a real tool-post grinder but we had a set-up similar that held an air grinder and into the Aloris holder.
So covering the way and NEVER using the air gun rules.
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BadDog:
"Man, I would be all puckered up over that boring setup"
I know that it was going to pucker a few!! Main reason why I posted it.
The thin boring bar was used for finishing the hole to .750.
For thinning out the area where the grinder attaches I used a larger diameter bar and it worked fine.
I had to do it that way because of that thin area only.
I could not go beyond 240 RPM otherwise I will get the machine doing the Samba.
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GearGeek:
“Sooo, what are you going to grind with it?” . . . . I don’t know!!!!
I’ll think of something.
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Ken_Shea:
I have made myself a tool long time ago which is a shank with a small bearing at the end.
I will attach it to the tool holder and the push the part until it runs true before fully tightening the jaws.
This works good with faces and also diameters that overhang the chuck and don’t run true before putting a center drill hole.
"I have been cautioned by others to be sure and protect the lathe ways with some sort of apron"
Yes, I've heard that since I can remember.
Never had to run a real tool-post grinder but we had a set-up similar that held an air grinder and into the Aloris holder.
So covering the way and NEVER using the air gun rules.
________
BadDog:
"Man, I would be all puckered up over that boring setup"
I know that it was going to pucker a few!! Main reason why I posted it.
The thin boring bar was used for finishing the hole to .750.
For thinning out the area where the grinder attaches I used a larger diameter bar and it worked fine.
I had to do it that way because of that thin area only.
I could not go beyond 240 RPM otherwise I will get the machine doing the Samba.
__________
GearGeek:
“Sooo, what are you going to grind with it?” . . . . I don’t know!!!!
I’ll think of something.
__________
Ken_Shea:
I have made myself a tool long time ago which is a shank with a small bearing at the end.
I will attach it to the tool holder and the push the part until it runs true before fully tightening the jaws.
This works good with faces and also diameters that overhang the chuck and don’t run true before putting a center drill hole.
Last edited by Jose Rivera on Mon Nov 19, 2007 12:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Nice job Jose, can you also mount it on the compound slide for grinding internal tapers.. I needed to grind the internal taper on a wheel adaptor for a surface grinder, before I got myself a lathe so, I mounted a full size tool post grinder on the surface grinder to do the job, the setup would have made most machinist cringe. You setup would have been a dream come true.
Dont forget, when you are doing long reach internal grinding, you dress the mounted wheel then you back off (dress smaller) the rear of the wheel and only leave 1/16" to 1/8" of grinding surface, this eliminated much of the possible chatter and give you a nicer cutting action. I also mounted my dressing diamond on a magnetic base, that way I can stick it anywhere to dress the wheel.
Good luck with your grinding projects.
Dont forget, when you are doing long reach internal grinding, you dress the mounted wheel then you back off (dress smaller) the rear of the wheel and only leave 1/16" to 1/8" of grinding surface, this eliminated much of the possible chatter and give you a nicer cutting action. I also mounted my dressing diamond on a magnetic base, that way I can stick it anywhere to dress the wheel.
Good luck with your grinding projects.
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Ken, basically a wood stick or brass will do the same.Ken_Shea wrote:Jose,
That is a really good example of a simple solution.
I bet I am not the only one going to make one of those.
An added plus is that it satisfies some of that "If it don't fit force it" in most of us.
Thanks
Ken
I have also one made out of a 3/8 piece of Teflon rod.
The bearing is there to avoid marking the surface to much when something is more or less delicate in finish.
bearing tool
Hi Jose,
I found one of those bars with a bearing at the end like yours in a box of gear I bought at an auction, I thought it was a tool someone had made for spinning metal however it is quite large 3/4"dia X 10" so maybe?
I found one of those bars with a bearing at the end like yours in a box of gear I bought at an auction, I thought it was a tool someone had made for spinning metal however it is quite large 3/4"dia X 10" so maybe?
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Re: bearing tool
It must have been built for a larger lathe.wannabe wrote:Hi Jose,
I found one of those bars with a bearing at the end like yours in a box of gear I bought at an auction, I thought it was a tool someone had made for spinning metal however it is quite large 3/4"dia X 10" so maybe?
The one I made was made to be used in Monarch 10EE I used to run at U.C.B.
It just happen to work perfect for my Maximat V10 (same capacity)
As you comment on spinning metal, I guess it would work for that too.
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Tool post
It was ment to be mounted on the tool post but I messed up while laying out the loctaion of the hole and tapped the hole that holds to the vertical surface off-set to the opposite direction.fourjc wrote:Nice job Jose, can you also mount it on the compound slide for grinding internal tapers.. I needed to grind the internal taper on a wheel adaptor for a surface grinder, before I got myself a lathe so, I mounted a full size tool post grinder on the surface grinder to do the job, the setup would have made most machinist cringe. You setup would have been a dream come true.
Dont forget, when you are doing long reach internal grinding, you dress the mounted wheel then you back off (dress smaller) the rear of the wheel and only leave 1/16" to 1/8" of grinding surface, this eliminated much of the possible chatter and give you a nicer cutting action. I also mounted my dressing diamond on a magnetic base, that way I can stick it anywhere to dress the wheel.
Good luck with your grinding projects.
Have problems with dyslexia all of my life
So now I ended up way above center. This will be corrected by tapping a second hole in the right location.