Rotary Table Just Arrived! Questions . . .

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MikeC
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Location: Birmingham, AL

Post by MikeC » Mon Apr 14, 2008 5:17 pm

Michael Moore's Heuer lift is nearly identical to mine. Only diff I can see is that T shaped bar at the end of the boom. Mine has An eye out at the and and had a separate spreader bar to achieve the same result. Needless to say, I kept the spreader bar, and have found it very useful as well, but mine generally lives with an open hook instead, like an engine hoist. I also have a chain hook I can attach, and small shackles for close up work. The open hook and chain hook were road fodder, picked up out of the middle of the street. Keep your eyes open! lol.
18x72 L&S, Fosdick 3ft radial, Van Norman 2G bridgemill, Van Norman #12, K. O. Lee T&C grinder, Steptoe-Western 12X universal HS shaper, 16spd benchtop DP, Grob band filer, South Bend 10L

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seal killer
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Post by seal killer » Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:34 pm

All--

I have been reading all these great ideas. Thank you.

I am THINKING of getting a motorcycle lift from HF. It has some heavy duty bolts holding the actual padded areas that lift the bike. These bolts would be ideal to either replace or use (have to measure) to bring the lifting surface up about 22 inches.

I am also looking at a small hydraulic cart with a capacity of 450 pounds. It would not need much at all to make the cart table high enough to move the RT from the mill to the cart or from the new cabinet to the cart.

But, if I got the cart, I would not be able to lift my Sportster up to wash underneath.

--Bill
You are what you write.

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MikeC
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Post by MikeC » Mon Apr 14, 2008 8:57 pm

Just my $0.02, but I would much rather have a small hoist to move the rotab from a shelf or bench to the mill table. If you get a platform that is adjustable, you have gained nothing over having a rolling table beside the mill that can be accessed by lowering the table with the knee.

To prevent dragging the rotab across the table, you STILL have to pick it up.... which you'll find the little hoist very handy for. Once on that hoist, it doesn't matter where the table is in the shop, you just roll the hoist over to it.
18x72 L&S, Fosdick 3ft radial, Van Norman 2G bridgemill, Van Norman #12, K. O. Lee T&C grinder, Steptoe-Western 12X universal HS shaper, 16spd benchtop DP, Grob band filer, South Bend 10L

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seal killer
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Post by seal killer » Mon Apr 14, 2008 9:04 pm

Mike--

Forgive the ignorant questions.

Where do you attach your lift to the RT?

I keep my mill table well-slicked with lubricant, currently SlipIt. Sliding a hundred-plus pounds across the table is very easy. Now, the other ignorant question: What's wrong with that?

Thanks!

--Bill
You are what you write.

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Michael_Moore
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Post by Michael_Moore » Mon Apr 14, 2008 9:24 pm

Nothing, as long as things are dead smooth on both the table and the underside of the rotab, and nothing gritty finds its way between them in the process.

I try to avoid sliding because it seems no matter how careful I am to clean things, there's always a tiny bit of something lurking and ready to fall out as soon as you decide you are done.

cheers,
Michael

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Michael_Moore
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Post by Michael_Moore » Mon Apr 14, 2008 9:26 pm

Here's a "put together from a couple sets of parts" hoist one done by one of the Rhodes shaper/slotter owners. I think it is a HF pickup truck mounted hoist mounted on the rolling base of something else.

Image

cheers,
Michael

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MikeC
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Post by MikeC » Mon Apr 14, 2008 11:40 pm

Best bet is a lifting eye in a T slot or two. Just slide and rotate until you find CG, then remember it. Usually not exact center due to the worm on one side. Just a bar on a couple of studs will work, too. Be creative. If you don't rip the slots out clamping work, the weight of the table certainly isn't going to hurt it.

Michael, that is a HF pickup truck hoist mounted to an engine stand base. May be a bit short of leg in some positions. Have to be careful booming down.
18x72 L&S, Fosdick 3ft radial, Van Norman 2G bridgemill, Van Norman #12, K. O. Lee T&C grinder, Steptoe-Western 12X universal HS shaper, 16spd benchtop DP, Grob band filer, South Bend 10L

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millman5
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Post by millman5 » Tue Apr 15, 2008 6:08 am

I lift my rotary by sliding (2) pieces od flat bar into (2) opposing slots on the table itself then hook a nylon sling underneath the flats. Quick, simple & no bolting necessary.

Mine doesn't have the vertical base, but this should still work fine.
If it works Don't fix it....

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seal killer
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Post by seal killer » Tue Apr 15, 2008 8:16 am

Michael--

I always keep my stuff "spotless", but I sure could not tell you what the underside of my vise looks like! Great point, thank you.

How do you attach your RT to the hoist mechanism? A four-sided sling? Of course, then you would have to set the RT down on the mill table and get the sling out. Picking it up would be even harder.

Oh! How about some t-slot things with hooks on the end? I bet that is how you do it!

--Bill
You are what you write.

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Michael_Moore
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Post by Michael_Moore » Tue Apr 15, 2008 10:07 am

I don't use the hoist on the chucks or similar tooling because I normally don't have enough clear floor space around the lathe or mill. :)

cheers,
Michael

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