Decided to make my own

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Jose Rivera
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Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:21 pm
Location: Vallejo California

Decided to make my own

Post by Jose Rivera » Sat Jul 12, 2008 5:17 pm

For a while I have been considering getting a large shell milling cutter for speedy machining when lots of stock need to be removed.

I won this shell-mill at eBay and took the challenge to make my own holder.

Here is a video of the rough turning and pictures of the machining process to finish.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ex1IT9_nJaI
Attachments
Holder5.jpg
almost there.jpg
Tap drilling for key.jpg
Keys on.jpg
Completed.jpg
There are no problems, only solutions.
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Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa

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GlennW
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Post by GlennW » Sat Jul 12, 2008 5:35 pm

Looks Great!!

Also looks like a floating head, self aligning knurling tool on that drawing!

Glenn

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mechanicalmagic
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Post by mechanicalmagic » Sat Jul 12, 2008 6:04 pm

Jose,
One of the first jobs when I got my lathe was R8 chuck adapters for the mill. As you know, with a limited quill travel sometimes it's near impossible to do some jobs without moving the knee. So I made three lengths.

Long one for spot drilling, med for reg drills and short for reduced shank. I don't use the long reach very often, but sure nice when needed.
Attachments
3chucks.jpg
3 Chucks for the Mill
Every day I ask myself, "What's the most fun thing to do today."
9x48 BP clone, 12x36 lathe, TIG, MIG, Gas, 3 in 1 sheetmetal.

Jose Rivera
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Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:21 pm
Location: Vallejo California

Holder

Post by Jose Rivera » Sat Jul 12, 2008 8:18 pm

Glenn, yes, is my next project.
I already made one a while ago, this one has different dimensions and is a straight knurl about .115" wide.

Dave, ingenuity is king!!
There are no problems, only solutions.
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Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa

Jose Rivera
Posts: 3803
Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:21 pm
Location: Vallejo California

Test

Post by Jose Rivera » Fri Jul 18, 2008 11:36 am

Finally got to do a real job making Hummingbird parts, rouging out quickly excess material.

Got a little bit of chatter, but I could not go slower. That is the slowest speed I have.

This video shows the operation taking .250" off.

I think that for a small MT2 spindle is not bad.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiEhIWbKb28
There are no problems, only solutions.
--------------
Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa

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GlennW
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Post by GlennW » Fri Jul 18, 2008 1:26 pm

'Kinda like this one :D

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1219866/h ... slab_mill/

Check out the guy with the broom trying to keep up :roll:

Glenn

Jose Rivera
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Location: Vallejo California

Big bites

Post by Jose Rivera » Fri Jul 18, 2008 1:38 pm

Delicious !!

I noticed lots of chatter :lol:

At Jorgensen Steel we had a 18 feet plate vertical boring mill.
(I always refused to run it)

This machine will create huge curled chips about .5" wide by .12" thick curled into a perfect spiral to about 8" in diameter before they broke and fell.

I estimate that each chip could have been a pound and a half.

One of those on you head and you're out.
There are no problems, only solutions.
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Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa

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MikeC
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Post by MikeC » Fri Jul 18, 2008 5:09 pm

I need to get some pics of the 300 Kwik Switch 2" shell mill arbor I made a few months back. Not a matter of can't afford one. I don't think they made them that big. I have some huge 8" carbide insert facemills I am going to use as flycutters on my bridge mill. I have a smaller facemill that produces a rainbow mirror finish, but it's only 3" or so in diam. I want to be able to reach all the way across larger parts.
18x72 L&S, Fosdick 3ft radial, Van Norman 2G bridgemill, Van Norman #12, K. O. Lee T&C grinder, Steptoe-Western 12X universal HS shaper, 16spd benchtop DP, Grob band filer, South Bend 10L

J Harp
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Location: Louisville Ky

Post by J Harp » Mon Jul 21, 2008 10:27 pm

Nice job Jose. How did you make the pockets for the drive keys?

Jose Rivera
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Location: Vallejo California

Two keyways

Post by Jose Rivera » Mon Jul 21, 2008 11:52 pm

J Harp wrote:Nice job Jose. How did you make the pockets for the drive keys?
With the holder horizontal, I used a .125 end-mill. That give me a right angle corner next to the .750" Dia. where the cutter goes in.

The key had to have two .062" radius corners.
Attachments
Machining keyway.jpg
There are no problems, only solutions.
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Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa

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JimGlass
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Post by JimGlass » Tue Jul 22, 2008 6:31 am

Hey, that is pretty nice.

Did you turn the taper by offsetting the tailstock?

Jim
Tool & Die Maker/Electrician, Retired 2007

So much to learn and so little time.

www.outbackmachineshop.com

Jose Rivera
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Location: Vallejo California

Post by Jose Rivera » Tue Jul 22, 2008 2:13 pm

JimGlass wrote:Hey, that is pretty nice.

Did you turn the taper by offsetting the tail-stock?

Jim
Nope, I did it with the compound rest after several adjustments.
Kind of a pain.

It would be nice to have an off-set devise for the tail-stock that will attach to the Morse taper, so one can attach and remove quickly without having to re-set the center on the tail-stock.

Next project maybe :P
There are no problems, only solutions.
--------------
Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa

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