The Home Machinist!

Does anyone know the specs for the HF 5980 spindle? Need to build / buy chuck adaptor. Measurement seems to be M42 X 2 (nearly) or 1 3/4 - 12 (nearly). Both seem pretty unusual.

Does anyone know a source for faceplates that fit?

Thanks,

Ted in Newport

Looking at the LittleMachineShop.com site, I see a listing for many lathe chucks and spindle adapters with a chart of spindle thread pitch's and size's. (Look under chucks, then adapters)......If your not sure what you have, e-mail them with your problem, I'm sure they will have a good idea.......I just purchased a used HF 5980 myself to use at work. Nice little machine to have around....... KERMIT

What I used is the) 1/2" Keyless drill chuck with an Arbor, 2MT Drawbar to 33JT) the thread pitch is a 3/8 - 16 supplied by: LittleMachineShop.com

On your Lathe it would be a 3MT Drawbar to 33JT)
The thread pitch is a 3/8 - 16

If supplied by: LittleMachineShop.com I recommend you use Morse Tap collets for everything including drilling unless you plan to make a rigid adjustable drill stand fixed to your milling bench as I am. The reason for this is because the standard keyless drill chucks will be too long and the bits wont have the depth travel you might find necessary.

Best Regards,
Chris
ps

Here are some other basic true specs on the (HF 5980) which comes stock that you might find useful.

1/2HP, 110V, 8.4 AMP, 1680 RPM,
1 PHASE, DRAW BAR THREAD: 10MM X 1.50 PITCH

DRILL MOTOR: 6A
TYPE: INDUCTION
DRIVE: BELT
BELT SHAPE: V
MILL SPINDLE: MT2
TAILSTOCK: MT2
WEIGHT: 326 LBS

LATHE SPINDLE BORE: MT3
BELT SHAPE: V
CORD: 18 G 3W 5.5'

DRILL CHUCK: 3-16MM
BED: 5 1/2 X 19 1/4
BEDWAYS: FLAT
LEAD SCREW: BY HAND

SADDLE TRAVEL: 13"
TOOL HOLDERS: 4
TOOL SIZE: 3/8"
# OF JAWS: 3

COLUMN: 5 1/8"
QUILL TRAVEL: 3"
MILL SWING: 14"
SPINDLE-COLUMN: 7"

BELT SIZE: 29 9/16
T-SLOTS: .840
T-SLOTS: .478L
SLOT SPACING: .346

BASE: 30" X 9"
END MILL: 3/4"
FACE MILL: 2 1/2"

FWD/REV: ELECTRONIC
WORK TOLERANCE: .005
LATHE BELT: 41 5/8" O.D.

LATHE SWING: 7 1/8"
CHUCK-TAIL STOCK: 13"
SWING/CROSS SLIDE: 1 5/8"

QUILL TRAV: 2" OR 50MM
QUILL INCREMENTS: .035MM

SADDLE CONTROL:HANDWHEEL
INCREMENTS: .10MM
1 REVOLUTION =: 40

GIBS: STEEL SPACER/WEDGE
CROSS SLIDE TRAV.: 7 1/8
INCREMENTS: .06MM

1 REVOLUTION =: 50
COMPOUND TRAVEL: 2 1/4"
LEFT/RIGHT TRAVEL: 13"

HEAD SWIVEL: 360 DEGREE
BELT COVER: SHEET METAL
SPINDLE-TABLE: 9 1/8 MAX

BALLBEARING: YES
QUILL LOCK: YES
QUICK CHANGE BELT: YES

FOURWAY CARRIAGE: YES
SADDLE LOCKS: YES
CROSS SLIDE LOCKS: YES

DIALS ADJUSTABLE: YES
COMPOUND SWIVELS: YES
QUILL DEPTH GAUGE: YES

COMPOUND LOCKS: YES
SELF-CENTERING: YES
THERMAL OVERLOAD: NO

LIGHT SOCKET: NO
AUTO CROSS SLIDE: NO
POWER DOWN FEED: NO

UL LISTED: NO
FEED ROD: NO
JAWS REVERSE: NO

TAPEROUTER DIAM CAPACITY: 3 1/2"
INNER DIAM CAPAPCITY: 3 3/4"
ROUND STOCK CAPACITY: 3/16"
DRILL CHUCK IS B18 DRAW BAR THREAD: 10MM X 1.50 PITCH

CHUCK & SPINDLE BORE WILL ACCEPT A 21MM ROD. IF USING MILLING BITS MORSE T ROUND COLLETS ARE NEEDED.
TO USE COLLET SET, DRILL CHUCK TAPER SHAFT MUST BE REMOVED.

Remember: drill chucks are handy but utterly useless based on this particular machines travel parameters.
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Yes, mine measures the same.I assume that you are/were looking for a lathe chuck adapter, e.g. for a 4-jaw chuck. The only match I found for M42x2 lathe spindle was Feinbau, which did not help me.

On the other hand, the 5980 uses a fairly conventional 4-inch chuck, so an adapter e.g. to a 5-inch 4-jaw chuck appears to be available as Little Machine Shop item 2961.

Hi,

Short-time lurker, first-time poster here. Greetings from WV.

I bought an inexpensive 4" 4-jaw independent from Shars tools for my HFT 5980. I expected to have to hunt up a suitable adapter that I could turn to the correct fit for it. However, upon inspection, it needed EXACTLY the same backplate as the stock 3-jaw. The fit was perfect, except that I had to drill and tap 3 extra holes (utilizing one of the original mounting holes) for the 4-bolt pattern on the 4-jaw. I still intend to get a dedicated backplate for it, but until then, when I need a 4-jaw, I just change out the backplate (after indexing it to both chucks).

I have yet to find a suitable adapter. Briefly considered swiping the backplate from the floor model at the local HFT. (That's a joke, BTW.)

Complete newby here. Just bought used HF5980. Can you help me understand what is inadequate about the drill type chuck that comes with the machine? And if it is inadequate for light duty milling, whatever that means, can you point me towards a logical replacement?

_________________
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
-Thomas Jefferson

Harold

Random thoughts, in no particular order:

Drill chucks are not intended for use where side loading is a factor.

There's more than one good reason drill chucks should NOT be used for milling. Milling cutters should be held in a collet, or end mill holder, both of which are designed to hold the cutter securely, and to keep the cutter running on center.

When side loads are applied to a drill chuck, it's not uncommon for the taper to release. Having a cutter spinning rapidly and coming free isn't in the best interest of the operator.
Drill chucks normally are not retained by a draw bar, unlike milling cutter adapters or collets.

Drill chucks are not well adapted to gripping hardened shanks. Take note that the shanks of drills are not hardened, and allow the jaws to indent slightly, assuring a firm grip so the tool doesn't slip in the jaws in use. End mills have shanks that are as hard as the cutting edges, so they are difficult to grip with a drill chuck.

Drill chucks rarely run true, so the eccentric path of the cutting edge tends to create uneven chip loading, limiting feed and yielding poor surface finishes.

Drill chucks are to be used for drilling----not milling.

Harold

_________________
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

Thanks Harold, that helped. So what specifically should I buy in order to replace the drill chuck?

I just called LittleMachineShop. I was going to let them decide what to sell me, which I figure is as good as it gets for a retailer, but their techy is out for the day.

_________________
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
-Thomas Jefferson

In almost all instances, a set of collets will serve you perfectly well. The notion that end mills must be held in end mill adapters doesn't apply if you aren't running a CNC, or applying loads to end mills that tax their capabilities. Even in those circumstances, collets will often serve the purpose perfectly well. So then, I'd encourage you to equip a vertical mill with collets, first. You may even wish to invest in a few end mill holders, but I'd be surprised if you found them a necessity. I ran a shop commercially for years and used only collets. No CNC involved, however.

Note that both holding systems offer certain advantages. End mills can generally be held closer to the bottom bearing of the spindle by using a collet. By contrast, there are times when you must have clearance, which is offered by the design of end mill holders. Both systems have a place in any shop---but if you must restrict spending, collets win, hands down.

Harold

_________________
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

So if I call up Little Machine Shop (or Grizzly, etc.) and say "I have a HF 5980, sell me a set of collets", they'll know precisely what I need?

_________________
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
-Thomas Jefferson

for yhe milling machine you will need morse taper number 2 (mt2) collets threaded for a 10mm 1.50 pitch. dont wory with time it will all make sense
you may also want to get a mt3 to mt2 adapter to allow useing them in your lathe.

making a draw bar to do that is a good project

have fun and enjoy

I just got off the phone with LittleMachineShop and bought 3X MT2 collets. But they said the metric threading is very rare so they sold me collets with SAE threading and gave me some general ideas re. making a draw bar. After, they, er, told me what a draw bar was <g>.

_________________
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
-Thomas Jefferson