Reworking a Spin Inexer
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Reworking a Spin Inexer
These 5C collet indexers are not bad for what they cost. Certain parts have value but, the device does not work well out of the box.
The 5C spindle and frame are quite nice and have a good fit. The indexing plate is nice as well. The draw bar did not tighten the collets well at all and the spindle endplay was retained with steel rings and setscrews. Each time the collet was released from the spindle with a slight bump the spindle would move under the retaining set screws and endplay would result. The steel rings and setscrews were junked years ago.
The spindle and drawbar had way to much clearance. It was up to the 5C collet to keep the drawbar centered inside the spindle. Tightening the collet put everything into a bind. Even though the spindle has been hardened, it is still machinable. I bored the spindle and pressed in a bronze bearing to keep the drawbar centered to the spindle.
Next, the endplay of the spindle needed to be addressed. I found an old bronze bearing, bored it for a slip fit on the spindle. The O.D. of the bronze bearing was 2.000" so I turned a 2"-32 thread (Don't try to look that one up) on the OD. The bronze bearing was then doweled to the spindle.
Next, I made two knurled steel rings that were 2 3/8 O.D. and a 2"-32 thread in the I.D. One ring is used to adjust for minimum endplay and the second ring locks the first ring in place.
Lubricate the spindle with some way-lube and assemble. The drawbar works much better and the endplay is adjustable using fingers. Notice the indexer is bolted to an aluminum plate. The plate supports the indexer and stops the indexer from tipping when milling or drilling an over hanging part.
Not a bad indexer now.
Jim
The 5C spindle and frame are quite nice and have a good fit. The indexing plate is nice as well. The draw bar did not tighten the collets well at all and the spindle endplay was retained with steel rings and setscrews. Each time the collet was released from the spindle with a slight bump the spindle would move under the retaining set screws and endplay would result. The steel rings and setscrews were junked years ago.
The spindle and drawbar had way to much clearance. It was up to the 5C collet to keep the drawbar centered inside the spindle. Tightening the collet put everything into a bind. Even though the spindle has been hardened, it is still machinable. I bored the spindle and pressed in a bronze bearing to keep the drawbar centered to the spindle.
Next, the endplay of the spindle needed to be addressed. I found an old bronze bearing, bored it for a slip fit on the spindle. The O.D. of the bronze bearing was 2.000" so I turned a 2"-32 thread (Don't try to look that one up) on the OD. The bronze bearing was then doweled to the spindle.
Next, I made two knurled steel rings that were 2 3/8 O.D. and a 2"-32 thread in the I.D. One ring is used to adjust for minimum endplay and the second ring locks the first ring in place.
Lubricate the spindle with some way-lube and assemble. The drawbar works much better and the endplay is adjustable using fingers. Notice the indexer is bolted to an aluminum plate. The plate supports the indexer and stops the indexer from tipping when milling or drilling an over hanging part.
Not a bad indexer now.
Jim
Last edited by JimGlass on Sat Nov 08, 2008 9:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Tool & Die Maker/Electrician, Retired 2007
So much to learn and so little time.
www.outbackmachineshop.com
So much to learn and so little time.
www.outbackmachineshop.com
Nice job on the upgrade, Jim.
Unlike yours, the one I have (it came with an old B&S #5 tool & cutter grinder I bought before leaving Utah) the indexing mechanism isn't right. Some of the indexing holes are off location, which creates problems with the interval between teeth. That was the discovery when I used it for making cog belt pulleys.
Assuming I live long enough, I intend to rework the body, establishing the proper relationship by boring the holes on location, then making a properly fitting pin. I feel it's worth the effort-----they're a real handy device.
Harold
Unlike yours, the one I have (it came with an old B&S #5 tool & cutter grinder I bought before leaving Utah) the indexing mechanism isn't right. Some of the indexing holes are off location, which creates problems with the interval between teeth. That was the discovery when I used it for making cog belt pulleys.
Assuming I live long enough, I intend to rework the body, establishing the proper relationship by boring the holes on location, then making a properly fitting pin. I feel it's worth the effort-----they're a real handy device.
Harold
- Bill Shields
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Spin-dex
Your ideas are great. I am going to look at mine to see if it has the same gotchas as yours (appears to be a clone)
One thing that I did to mine that also helped make it more useful was to cut the sides of the 'foot' so that I could simply clamp it in my 6" KURT rather than have to fool with clamping it down to the table and squaring it up every time.
It had been just about 1/4" too wide to fit in the Kurt, and (SURPRISE) the edges weren't square with the bore of the spindle.
Now, when I need it, I just open up the Kurt, drop it in, clamp it down and make my parts.
One thing that I did to mine that also helped make it more useful was to cut the sides of the 'foot' so that I could simply clamp it in my 6" KURT rather than have to fool with clamping it down to the table and squaring it up every time.
It had been just about 1/4" too wide to fit in the Kurt, and (SURPRISE) the edges weren't square with the bore of the spindle.
Now, when I need it, I just open up the Kurt, drop it in, clamp it down and make my parts.
- Frank Ford
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- mechanicalmagic
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I went a slightly different path. I didn't trust the lock screw, and relying on a tapered pin to prevent rotation is not to my liking. Plus, I like real hold down bolts.
So, after squaring the sides, I reamed four .501" holes and made an Aluminum riser block. The holes are on a square pattern, so it can be rotated on the riser. There is also a thread for a draw bolt, and dowel pins that align with my rotab. The base was bored for a lock clamp, and I used a push and turn handle for securing the lock. I also cut down the length of the spindle.
Dave J.
So, after squaring the sides, I reamed four .501" holes and made an Aluminum riser block. The holes are on a square pattern, so it can be rotated on the riser. There is also a thread for a draw bolt, and dowel pins that align with my rotab. The base was bored for a lock clamp, and I used a push and turn handle for securing the lock. I also cut down the length of the spindle.
Dave J.
Every day I ask myself, "What's the most fun thing to do today."
9x48 BP clone, 12x36 lathe, TIG, MIG, Gas, 3 in 1 sheetmetal.
9x48 BP clone, 12x36 lathe, TIG, MIG, Gas, 3 in 1 sheetmetal.
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Dave;
You have some good ideas there. Especially like the spindle lock. The riser block is also an excellent idea. No chance for the workpiece to move inside the collet when the indexer is used in tandem with vise.
That is still a complaint with my indexer. The workpiece can rotate or otherwise shift in the collet unless it is unreasonably tightened.
I need to buy one of those chucks that has a 5C collet shank.
Jim
You have some good ideas there. Especially like the spindle lock. The riser block is also an excellent idea. No chance for the workpiece to move inside the collet when the indexer is used in tandem with vise.
That is still a complaint with my indexer. The workpiece can rotate or otherwise shift in the collet unless it is unreasonably tightened.
I need to buy one of those chucks that has a 5C collet shank.
Jim
Tool & Die Maker/Electrician, Retired 2007
So much to learn and so little time.
www.outbackmachineshop.com
So much to learn and so little time.
www.outbackmachineshop.com
- mechanicalmagic
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Jim,
Thanks for the compliments. I made the riser for a job a while back.
I needed to machine a 12" long 3/4" dia. rod, from four sides, 90 degrees apart. MANY holes and pockets, all from the same reference datum, but on different sides. The spindex was within rotational spec. Easy, (after the riser block).
Dave J.
Thanks for the compliments. I made the riser for a job a while back.
I needed to machine a 12" long 3/4" dia. rod, from four sides, 90 degrees apart. MANY holes and pockets, all from the same reference datum, but on different sides. The spindex was within rotational spec. Easy, (after the riser block).
Dave J.
Every day I ask myself, "What's the most fun thing to do today."
9x48 BP clone, 12x36 lathe, TIG, MIG, Gas, 3 in 1 sheetmetal.
9x48 BP clone, 12x36 lathe, TIG, MIG, Gas, 3 in 1 sheetmetal.
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One of the first things I did to the indexer was mill the base and drill holes so it would drop into my Kurt vise like the rest of you did. I needed to use the indexer for drilling once and discovered regardless of how tight the vise was the indexer would tip from the unsupported downward force of the drilling. So I made up a base plate to support the indexer over a wider area.
Jim
Jim
Tool & Die Maker/Electrician, Retired 2007
So much to learn and so little time.
www.outbackmachineshop.com
So much to learn and so little time.
www.outbackmachineshop.com
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Re: Reworking a Spin Inexer
Yupp more work , my list just keeps growing .pretty soon it will be two lifetimes to complete . So much todo so little time , pic a few and do I guess. I never did like the set screw lock up on mine . Now I'll have to see if I can come up with away to do mine may use your idea . Gona think a bit on it!
Re: Reworking a Spin Inexer
Before you do anything, you must do something else first. - Washington's principle.
Re: Reworking a Spin Inexer
Now that we know what can be done to improve an inexpensive spin fixture, how do you hold the fixture in order to square up the base, due to it's irregular shape? I suspect it needs to be set in the vise so that the spindle can be indicated parallel and perpendicular to the base. BTW, I found my indexer at Harbor Freight for something like $20 a few years back.
Mr.Ron from South Mississippi