New machines home- Monarch Lathe

All discussion about lathes including but not limited to: South Bend, Hardinge, Logan, Monarch, Clausing and other HSM lathes, including imports

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GlennW
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Post by GlennW »

Jose Rivera wrote:
Kapullen ...
Jose,

It's the other one :wink:
Andypullen
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Post by Andypullen »

Glenn Wegman wrote:
Jose Rivera wrote:
Kapullen ...
Jose,

It's the other one :wink:
LOL!!

Open your eyes Jose.....Maybe some dyslexia, too?? I'll be here to confuse you, too.....

Andy Pullen
Clausing 10x24, Sheldon 12" shaper, ProtoTrak AGE-2 control cnc on a BP clone, Reed Prentice 14" x 30", Sanford MG 610 surface grinder, Kalamazoo 610 bandsaw, Hardinge HSL speed lathe, Hardinge HC chucker, Kearney and Trecker #2K plain horizontal mill, Haas TL-1 lathe.
kvom
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Post by kvom »

Somewhat back on topic, what's the best way to safely clean ways and other precision surfaces of rust?

I'm thinking about using brake cleaner on non-precision surfaces.
Jose Rivera
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Rust

Post by Jose Rivera »

For removing rust try Evapo-Rust.

There was posting a few months ago about a member that bought a Maximat lathe and that product did an amazing job.
There are no problems, only solutions.
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Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa
kvom
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Post by kvom »

Doing some grease/dirt removal this morning with Simple Green, I discovered that I have a taper attachment hiding under a sheet metal cover (!?) It's missing the way clamp and looks rusty from underneath, but hopefully is salvageable.
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BadDog
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Post by BadDog »

Agh, the more I get to know you, the less I like you.... ;)

Congrats on the find, and I hope you can salvage it.

I've had good luck derusting stuff with inexpensive Phosphoric Acid bought at Home Depot. Look for "Concrete Etch". I dilute it about between 3:1 and 5:1 depending on what I'm doing and how bad the part is. Use normal precautions, acid into the water, Nitrile gloves, and eye protection. But Phos Acid is really pretty mild stuff (it's in Coke and many other foods). Stuff is amazing, and often doesn't even remove paint. In your case, it's going to be tougher to use on the big pieces, I usually submerge in the solution. But like Evapo-Rust (different process), you can wet towels and lay in place, then keep wetting and applying.
Russ
Master Floor Sweeper
Jose Rivera
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Water based

Post by Jose Rivera »

Careful using water based solvents in areas where the liquid can sneak in and corrode big time and out of sight.

I had good luck using BBQ lighter fuel and better yet, camping stove fuel (Naphtha).

Even Diesel fuel would be safer than water based products.
There are no problems, only solutions.
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Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa
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BadDog
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Post by BadDog »

Good point Jose, I always disassemble so I can get to everything...
Russ
Master Floor Sweeper
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GlennW
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Post by GlennW »

kvom,

Have you had power to it and checked to see if everything operates yet?
Glenn

Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
kvom
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Post by kvom »

Glenn Wegman wrote:kvom,

Have you had power to it and checked to see if everything operates yet?
Not yet. First order of business is to get it off the trailer. Looking for local wrecker/forklift/bobcat at a reasonable price.

Then I'll need to finish wiring the RPC. My electrician friend supposedly has the extra parts I need (cutoff switch, 3ph outlet and plug), but has to find the time to come over.

Should be soon.
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GlennW
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Post by GlennW »

Another suggestion would be to order a 12 X 12" sheet of 1/4" thick Linnen Phenolic from MSC, McMaster Carr etc. and make some scrapers. You can cut them to any size and shape and put an edge on them with a belt sander. Tape up the handle for comfort and you're good to go. They hold an edge really well and being of resin and fabric composition they won't scratch critical surfaces.
Image
Glenn

Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
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steamin10
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Post by steamin10 »

Uh, id watch the bit with the scrapers.

A drop of motor oil, a brass tooth brush and elbo grease for rusty areas. maybe a little cup brush on a drill, but it is more likely to polish off the rust and clean to bare metal than sanding or chopping at the crud. The oil leaves rust proofing and allows the dust to drool together for wiping down.

I dont like water solvent/acid based things, they are easy but have a problem with Hideout that can bite ya. If you think dunk the gunk, then disassemble and go for it. The gloves are on so to speak, but work fast, dont delay, and get it done and wiped off.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
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