Mill vise stop

Rolland · Post by **Rolland** » Wed May 27, 2009 4:43 pm

I have seen a drawing of a mill vise stop somewhere on one of the machinist sites but for the life of me can not find it. I thought I would make one but need a bit of direction.
If anyone has a photo I would love to see it

Mark Hockett · Post by **Mark Hockett** » Wed May 27, 2009 6:53 pm

Rolland,
There is more than one type of vise stop, can you describe which style you are looking for. There are some that clamp to the top of the jaw, some that mount on the back side of the vise, some that mount to the mill table, some that swivel out of the way and on Kurt vises there are some that mounts in a groove in the jaw. There are probably other types too.

John Evans · Post by **John Evans** » Wed May 27, 2009 7:38 pm

Ok here are 3 slightly different styles ,all mount to vise jaw.

Rolland · Post by **Rolland** » Wed May 27, 2009 9:22 pm

I need the one that clamps to the top of the vise jaw. I know the suppliers carry them but I wanted to make one or two.

John those are the types I was interested in.
Thanks.

boaterri · Post by **boaterri** » Wed May 27, 2009 10:24 pm

You might try here:
http://www.cnccookbook.com/MTMillKurtViseStop.htm

It is a different design than the others but should work well.

Good luck,

Rick

Post by **Harold_V** » Thu May 28, 2009 2:21 am

Drill and tap a series of ¼"-20 holes behind the fixed jaw of your vise, from one side to the other. Avoid drilling the two mounting bolts that affix the jaw. From these holes you can use a small finger clamp to hold a stop on top of a parallel. It serves dual purposes---one of them to act as a stop, the other to hold the parallel in place between parts, even when you use air to clean the vise. I've used that system for well over 40 years with excellent results---especially in a production environment.

By establishing a series of holes, you can select the portion of the vise that best suits your project. Mine, for the most part, gets used on the left side, so my dial reads in the proper direction.

It's always a good idea to use the center of the vise for short pieces, to eliminate cocking of the moveable jaw.

Harold

Rolland · Post by **Rolland** » Thu May 28, 2009 6:42 pm

Harold
Any chance you could post a photo?

Post by **Harold_V** » Fri May 29, 2009 2:22 am

Here you go, Rolland. The vise is a 5" Kurt. I show the holes, plus a simple setup where the clamp retains the parallel and the stop.

Harold

kapullen · Post by **kapullen** » Fri May 29, 2009 6:41 am

Harold,

Many guys don't want to drill and tap into a $400 Vise.......

Except as an accident!!!!!

Awwww Shipt!

Kap

Black_Moons · Post by **Black_Moons** » Fri May 29, 2009 11:28 am

drill and tap your 'custom' $5 softjaws then

Rolland · Post by **Rolland** » Fri May 29, 2009 1:31 pm

Harold
Thanks, I kinda like that idea better.

Post by **Harold_V** » Fri May 29, 2009 2:26 pm

kapullen wrote:Harold,

Many guys don't want to drill and tap into a $400 Vise.......

It isn''t the easiest decision to make when you have respect for fine tools, but the advantages of those tapped holes are endless. I have even used them to hold a temporary aluminum soft jaw in place when machining miniature parts. That was my specialty, thus the 5" vise.

I do not regret the decision, and would do it again on a newly purchased vise, with no reservations. Fact is, when I start using the recently acquired HAAS CNC toolroom mill, I will procure a new Kurt and do exactly that. Frankly, I wouldn't be without them.

Harold

edit: corrected spelling