DP chuck key
DP chuck key
As I age, arthritis in my finger joints really are affected by the unfriendly design of the chuck key of my Delta drill press. I want to make a chuck key (or modify the supplied key) which fits well in the chuck hole and meshes well in the cogs (no slipping). Have any of you improved on the chuck key? Sure would like to see some good ideas!
JB
JB
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- Location: Vallejo California
Met an older fellow the other day, had an interesting take on drill press keys & safety. The key was set into a knurled disc about the size of his palm.
When done tightening the chuck the disc had to be set into a magnetic holder that had a micro switch that enabled the motor circuit. No key, no start. He had it mounted on the head.
When done tightening the chuck the disc had to be set into a magnetic holder that had a micro switch that enabled the motor circuit. No key, no start. He had it mounted on the head.
- Frank Ford
- Posts: 594
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- Location: Palo Alto, CA
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Woody Guthrie was right - arthritis is a thing to miss!
I've been dealing with arthritis in my hands since mid 1991, and about all I can say is that it gets worse with time.
So, I modify chuck keys, machine adjustment thumbscrews, and that kind of thing to make life a bit less painful.
Here's my Long Armed Jacobs project - first I milled a slot in a hunk of brass rod:
Then, I simply soft-soldered the chuck key in the slot, after shortening the arms to fit my slot:
After a bit of lathe and file work, I have a nice looking and easy working two-handed chuck key:
I've been dealing with arthritis in my hands since mid 1991, and about all I can say is that it gets worse with time.
So, I modify chuck keys, machine adjustment thumbscrews, and that kind of thing to make life a bit less painful.
Here's my Long Armed Jacobs project - first I milled a slot in a hunk of brass rod:
Then, I simply soft-soldered the chuck key in the slot, after shortening the arms to fit my slot:
After a bit of lathe and file work, I have a nice looking and easy working two-handed chuck key:
Cheers,
Frank Ford
Frank Ford
Just got in from a picking gig (arthritis affects that too!) and read ideas to-date.
LG and Jose--I have tried the extension handle--it helps, but makes the storing and handling a bit awkward sometimes.
Frank--I like your extensions for a two-handed model for horizontal use; however, it would seem a bit challenging in the vertical on a DP?
Carm--I'm working on a visualization of your description and while I probably would not go as far as making it a part of the electrical system, the palm-sized handle is interesting. Perhaps that would allow putting lateral pressure to keep the key in the chuck hole as rotational pressure is applied. Doing both with the short (or even extended leg of the key) is difficult.
JB
LG and Jose--I have tried the extension handle--it helps, but makes the storing and handling a bit awkward sometimes.
Frank--I like your extensions for a two-handed model for horizontal use; however, it would seem a bit challenging in the vertical on a DP?
Carm--I'm working on a visualization of your description and while I probably would not go as far as making it a part of the electrical system, the palm-sized handle is interesting. Perhaps that would allow putting lateral pressure to keep the key in the chuck hole as rotational pressure is applied. Doing both with the short (or even extended leg of the key) is difficult.
JB
- Frank Ford
- Posts: 594
- Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2007 12:41 pm
- Location: Palo Alto, CA
- Contact:
Not at all - it works just as well for me in vertical position. I spin the chuck down by hand, so there's only a fraction of a turn required to tighten with the key.Frank--I like your extensions for a two-handed model for horizontal use; however, it would seem a bit challenging in the vertical on a DP?
Cheers,
Frank Ford
Frank Ford
Polymorph
Maybe you could use Polymorph to shape a nice handle that will fit your hand perfectly.
For the few who don't know it, polymorph is a plastic, comes in tiny granules and once you heat it up it is mouldable. Then when it cools it changes again into something very much like Nylon.
Magic stuff.
I use it to make mobile phone holders for in the car, or a slightly bigger grip on a tiny screwdriver I had. It doesn't stick to metal, slightly grease to the touch, but you can mold it around it.
Shape it to fit your hand and it will spread the load, great stuff.
Lykle
For the few who don't know it, polymorph is a plastic, comes in tiny granules and once you heat it up it is mouldable. Then when it cools it changes again into something very much like Nylon.
Magic stuff.
I use it to make mobile phone holders for in the car, or a slightly bigger grip on a tiny screwdriver I had. It doesn't stick to metal, slightly grease to the touch, but you can mold it around it.
Shape it to fit your hand and it will spread the load, great stuff.
Lykle
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- Posts: 3803
- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:21 pm
- Location: Vallejo California
Harbor Freight carries this type of chuck key for little money.
I have bought the one that is a cross and has four different sizes.
It fits OK on some chucks but although they call it "Universal", it does not fit some of my chucks.
For the cost and being able to return it I think is a good deal.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=95473
I have bought the one that is a cross and has four different sizes.
It fits OK on some chucks but although they call it "Universal", it does not fit some of my chucks.
For the cost and being able to return it I think is a good deal.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=95473
There are no problems, only solutions.
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Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa
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Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa
Have you considered a keyless chuck?
There are some available that utilize a spanner type wrench for final tightening.
May be the best of both worlds for you.
Easy to initially open and close like a conventional key type, and final tightening or initial loosening is done with a 4" long spanner that you could just bump with the palm of your hand.
And then there is always the Walstrom chuck, although not inexpensive!
There are some available that utilize a spanner type wrench for final tightening.
May be the best of both worlds for you.
Easy to initially open and close like a conventional key type, and final tightening or initial loosening is done with a 4" long spanner that you could just bump with the palm of your hand.
And then there is always the Walstrom chuck, although not inexpensive!
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
I value all your comments. Glenn, I decided to use things on-hand rather than spend more on this project; however, I would like to have a good keyless chuck. So, today I made my first attempt to improve on the DP chuck key. I got from the scrap bin an AL casting I had rescued from the mud at a recycling yard recently.
Size was about 3.25 in D X 2 in L
Cleaned and trued, then bored to a press-fit for the body of the chuck key.
The finished tool
Works fine--I may knurl the edge if needed
Thanks to all.
JB[/img]
Size was about 3.25 in D X 2 in L
Cleaned and trued, then bored to a press-fit for the body of the chuck key.
The finished tool
Works fine--I may knurl the edge if needed
Thanks to all.
JB[/img]
Last edited by edtec on Sun Jun 14, 2009 9:07 pm, edited 8 times in total.
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- Location: Alabama
When Ol' Arthur visits
I guess I'm just lazy... and arthritic. I always have a 6 inch cresent wrench near my drill press. When Ol' Arthur visits me, I put the key in the chuck and stick the hole end of the cresent wrench over the key handle to give me the needed leverage.