1018 for Tool Holders?

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steamin10
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Post by steamin10 » Tue Jun 23, 2009 9:16 am

Just for fun, use the 1018 and learn to cut the blob into a usefull form.

Just for the record, on tool holders and such that have non-critical finishes, I clamp a belt sander in a vise and hand finish the edges and touch the flats for smoothness. Sandpaper on a granit/marble floor tile makes for a cheap hand finish.

Cold blue is good, but wears quickly. Heat the finished piece to about 350* and dunk till cool in motor oil. It will absorb just a bit in the pores and help with rusting.

Frank: you have way too much time on your hands. eveeerything you do shows the mark of a craftsman in concept and detail. Like the brass nut in the photo. Not just knurled, but contoured into a practical and visually pleasing shape. Many Kudos, you are an artist.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
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SteveHGraham
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Post by SteveHGraham » Tue Jun 23, 2009 10:41 am

It's worth making the tool holders regardless of whether 1018 is the optimal metal, so I'll try to do it. I don't know what else I'd do with it, and I have no other suitable metal lying around.

Frank needs an apprentice. I can relocate, and I own my own broom.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.

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JimGlass
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Post by JimGlass » Tue Jun 23, 2009 5:28 pm

I have made AXA size toolholders from 1018 steel and they work just fine.
Some of my homemade toolholders are ten years old.

1018 can be hardened with the carburize & Harden technique. There are probably other case harden techniques.

Below is a complete QCTP with holders that I made and used for five years until I broke down and bought an Aloris toolpost. Most of my homemade toolposts fit the new post. Some were a little snug so I opened up the dovetail on my surface grinder.

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Here is a special two in one toolholder I made. It only fits one dovetail on the toolpost. It will face/turn and cut-off without changing toolholders. Nice tool when I need it.

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Cad drawing of AXA holder

Image

Image

Just about all my tools are black oxide coated. The place I retired from had their own hot black oxide system which I was allowed to use. About all black oxide does is prevent rust somewhat. It is mostly for looks. Tools cannot darken from rust because they are already black. Black oxide is a form of oxidation or rust.

Jim
Tool & Die Maker/Electrician, Retired 2007

So much to learn and so little time.

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PeteM
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Post by PeteM » Wed Jun 24, 2009 12:31 am

Just to follow up on the "does cold blue add hardness" question, I grabbed a scrap length of cold rolled mystery steel and cold blued a portion. My guess is that it was close to 1018 and the surface was flat enough both sides not to cause problems.

Two applications of the cold blue, though it didn't take especially well. Used the Rockwell B scale (ball penetrator) and couldn't see any significant difference in hardness. Whatever difference there was actually seemed to indicate the bare portion was harder (e.g 92 rB vs. 88 rB), but this was pretty much an uncontrolled experiment with the wrong tool for measuring surface hardness. About all it says is that there's no super significant effects in cold bluing one form of mystery metal.

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Frank Ford
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Post by Frank Ford » Wed Jun 24, 2009 10:03 am

I was in the shop last night photographing my mill quill lock modification, so I thought I'd shoot a group shot of some more shop-made AXA holders:


Image

Three oversize ones - one for multiple tools, one for 3/4" and one for 5/8" tools. On the right is a copy of an Armstrong holder a friend has. It's a 15-degree angle and I made it with setscrew and depth stop holes top and bottom so I could use it either right or left handed. Because my Hardinge clone has such a wide carriage, this holder can be useful reaching close to chuck or tailstock for some setups.
Cheers,

Frank Ford

KenHMT
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Re:

Post by KenHMT » Wed Oct 31, 2012 1:07 pm

Frank Ford wrote:I was in the shop last night photographing my mill quill lock modification, so I thought I'd shoot a group shot of some more shop-made AXA holders:


Image

Three oversize ones - one for multiple tools, one for 3/4" and one for 5/8" tools. On the right is a copy of an Armstrong holder a friend has. It's a 15-degree angle and I made it with setscrew and depth stop holes top and bottom so I could use it either right or left handed. Because my Hardinge clone has such a wide carriage, this holder can be useful reaching close to chuck or tailstock for some setups.
Beautiful workmanship - great-looking holders...

Added to the database at homemadetools.net: http://www.homemadetools.net/axa-holders

Ken

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refinery mike
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Re: 1018 for Tool Holders?

Post by refinery mike » Wed Oct 31, 2012 3:45 pm

I would do things the other way around than frank suggested, I think he miss typed. heat the metal in the oven first, and then dunk in oil. put an oily tool in the oven and your wife is going to get real testy.
One method i use is to hold the steel on a rod and heat it with a propane torch until it gets grey with some purple still in it and then quench it in water. then i dry it with a little heat and oil it. I just like that look better it does not make 1018 any harder but a little more rust resistant.

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Rich_Carlstedt
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Re: 1018 for Tool Holders?

Post by Rich_Carlstedt » Fri Nov 02, 2012 4:36 pm

Nice Frank .....Nice !

Rich

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atty
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Re:

Post by atty » Sat Nov 03, 2012 6:59 am

SteveHGraham wrote:It's worth making the tool holders regardless of whether 1018 is the optimal metal, so I'll try to do it. I don't know what else I'd do with it, and I have no other suitable metal lying around.
Steve, don't worry about hardening. Make the tool holder first. You'll get a lot of ideas, and learn a lot on that first prototype. I learned one thing very quickly on my first one: Cut the dovetail to fit the post. Don't rely on your micrometer to tell you you're there. It's one of those "shop variables" that keeps our hobby interesting. :roll:

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Lew Hartswick
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Re: 1018 for Tool Holders?

Post by Lew Hartswick » Sat Nov 03, 2012 10:19 am

Gee I made a bunch of tool holders out of aluminum for the MH90 type post several years ago and
they have been working just fine. Don't know how much different the dovetail type would be but
I'd even try it. :-)
...lew...

j morgan
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Re: 1018 for Tool Holders?

Post by j morgan » Sat Nov 03, 2012 12:40 pm

OK, since we are on this subject, I have been thinking of making a few tool holders myself. I have a Phase II quick change tool post # 250-111. What size dovetail cutter will I need to buy? 3/8 or 7/16? Not sure how to measure the cutter itself.
Thanks Guys.
John

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GlennW
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Re: 1018 for Tool Holders?

Post by GlennW » Sat Nov 03, 2012 1:42 pm

I have a 1 3/8" cutter (O.D) for making the same size tool holders.
Glenn

Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!

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