Turning with a Boring Head and Integral Shank
- seal killer
- Posts: 4696
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 10:58 pm
- Location: Ozark Mountains
- seal killer
- Posts: 4696
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 10:58 pm
- Location: Ozark Mountains
You may have missed this a few posts back. (you were in the pool)
Glenn Wegman wrote:Here is an example.
Not necessarily a suggestion!
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-2-Left-Hand-Borin ... 7C294%3A50
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
- seal killer
- Posts: 4696
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 10:58 pm
- Location: Ozark Mountains
About 18 months ago I had to cut 8 L shaped brackets out of ¼” plate. Each was about 6” by 18” by 2” wide with a 1” radius fillet on both ends. I have a 1.5” shell mill and rotary table. I milled the fillets by mounting the L brackets to the rotary table then turning the brackets against the mill. It worked well and I’m sure the technique could be used to mill a pin. Although my parts did not need to be precise the half circles came out tangent on both sides as close as my finger could tell. I did not take big cuts and instead creep up on the finished fillet but that technique would also work when milling a pin.
Tom B
Tom B
- seal killer
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[quote="Glenn Wegman"]
Bill,
Saw one of your recent posts stating you are unable to find HSS Boring bars. The above steel shank bars are 3/4", so finding them in HSS would be a little tough.
To solve that I also use HSS inserts available from AR Warner in those bars as they are a common configuration. Gives me the option of grinding bevels or odd radii on them.
The bar I pointed you to on eBay would also accept AR Warner HSS inserts which are usually more expensive than carbide or Cermet inserts, but if you want HSS........ Something to consider.
Bill,
Saw one of your recent posts stating you are unable to find HSS Boring bars. The above steel shank bars are 3/4", so finding them in HSS would be a little tough.
To solve that I also use HSS inserts available from AR Warner in those bars as they are a common configuration. Gives me the option of grinding bevels or odd radii on them.
The bar I pointed you to on eBay would also accept AR Warner HSS inserts which are usually more expensive than carbide or Cermet inserts, but if you want HSS........ Something to consider.
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
- seal killer
- Posts: 4696
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 10:58 pm
- Location: Ozark Mountains
Glenn--
You know I am inexperienced and often do not use the correct vocabulary. What I need are bars that have HSS cutters. I want to use them on brass, bronze, and aluminum.
I have a good 3/4" boring head assembly with an R8 arbor. I have a good 1/2" boring head assembly with an integral R8 shank. I have a not-so-good 3/8" boring head assembly with an R8 arbor. (The dial is pretty much useless, but I make use of the tool using plug gages.)
I have a LOT of 3/4" bars, none with HSS cutters. I have ONE left handed 1/2" carbide bar (bought for my brass, bronze reverse-boring-for-the-steam-engine project). And, I have three who-knows-what-they-are bars for the 3/8" boring head. (But, they work well in aluminum.)
What I would LOVE to find are some 3/4" boring bars with HSS cutters. In my mind, I could then quit worrying so much about interrupted cuts. I would go with indexible tooling, if I could find the HSS inserts. Therefore, I am going to look up AR Warner and see what they have available and I thank you for the link and remembering my need.
--Bill
You know I am inexperienced and often do not use the correct vocabulary. What I need are bars that have HSS cutters. I want to use them on brass, bronze, and aluminum.
I have a good 3/4" boring head assembly with an R8 arbor. I have a good 1/2" boring head assembly with an integral R8 shank. I have a not-so-good 3/8" boring head assembly with an R8 arbor. (The dial is pretty much useless, but I make use of the tool using plug gages.)
I have a LOT of 3/4" bars, none with HSS cutters. I have ONE left handed 1/2" carbide bar (bought for my brass, bronze reverse-boring-for-the-steam-engine project). And, I have three who-knows-what-they-are bars for the 3/8" boring head. (But, they work well in aluminum.)
What I would LOVE to find are some 3/4" boring bars with HSS cutters. In my mind, I could then quit worrying so much about interrupted cuts. I would go with indexible tooling, if I could find the HSS inserts. Therefore, I am going to look up AR Warner and see what they have available and I thank you for the link and remembering my need.
--Bill
You are what you write.
- seal killer
- Posts: 4696
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 10:58 pm
- Location: Ozark Mountains
You can get HSS inserts for insert boring bars. See Glen's post.
Page 228 of Enco catelog, notice HSS boring bars and Criterion bars.
Go back one page to 227. Notice moring HSS boring bars. Note that these are cheap enough to cut to length as desired. I've bought several to make convenient cutters for my slotter. Also note more criterion bars.
Go through pages before and after. Many options.
222 covers the Everede bars that use special (proprietary $$) HSS bits.
Page 228 of Enco catelog, notice HSS boring bars and Criterion bars.
Go back one page to 227. Notice moring HSS boring bars. Note that these are cheap enough to cut to length as desired. I've bought several to make convenient cutters for my slotter. Also note more criterion bars.
Go through pages before and after. Many options.
222 covers the Everede bars that use special (proprietary $$) HSS bits.
Russ
Master Floor Sweeper
Master Floor Sweeper
- mechanicalmagic
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- Joined: Sun Nov 04, 2007 12:11 am
- Location: Pleasanton, CA Land of perfect weather
Another way of making a boring bar. Save the 1/8" solid Carbide drill shanks, after breaking the drill. Take a piece of whatever stock is appropriate, ream a hole .124", sharpen the Carbide to desired shape, and press into the hole. The hole angle can be chosen to present a tip good for flat bottom boring.
I can make a Carbide tipped boring bar in a few minutes. Granted, I have no idea of the Carbide grade, but they work fine for the stuff I do.
The top part is a broken solid Carbide drill.
Next is a sharpened point, side view.
Last is a 3/8" bar, with a Carbide threading tip.
I can make a Carbide tipped boring bar in a few minutes. Granted, I have no idea of the Carbide grade, but they work fine for the stuff I do.
The top part is a broken solid Carbide drill.
Next is a sharpened point, side view.
Last is a 3/8" bar, with a Carbide threading tip.
Every day I ask myself, "What's the most fun thing to do today."
9x48 BP clone, 12x36 lathe, TIG, MIG, Gas, 3 in 1 sheetmetal.
9x48 BP clone, 12x36 lathe, TIG, MIG, Gas, 3 in 1 sheetmetal.
Oh, perhaps you are looking for these!
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PM ... T4TP=*LTIP
It's Page 512 of the MSC Catalog if this does not work.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PM ... T4TP=*LTIP
It's Page 512 of the MSC Catalog if this does not work.
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!