securing items to a faceplate

Topics include, Machine Tools & Tooling, Precision Measuring, Materials and their Properties, Electrical discussions related to machine tools, setups, fixtures and jigs and other general discussion related to amateur machining.

Moderators: Harold_V, websterz, GlennW

Post Reply
thomas harris
Posts: 384
Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 6:02 pm
Location: michigan

securing items to a faceplate

Post by thomas harris » Fri Jul 24, 2009 6:29 am

I had a pulley with an egged-bore and decided to just rebore and bush it. After some head scratching on how to secure it for boring, I decided to drill small holes in the side and use bolts on the faceplate to position, indicate, and scure it. I was cheap pot metal, so it turned with little force, helping the situaton. My question is regarding safety. This is obviously more an option on small sized parts. What, if any are the "rules of thumb" on securing parts for turning this way? What if they are not centered while turning? Obviously, nobody wants a part flying off the lathe while underway. The reason I clamped it to a faceplate is because it was too large for chucking.
atlas 618,MM challenger wire welder, 4x6 cheapo bandsaw, assorted junk, spears for hunting mastadons.

kapullen
Posts: 742
Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2003 9:30 pm

Post by kapullen » Fri Jul 24, 2009 6:44 am

Thomas,

That is a completely acceptable method.

Judgement, and care must be utalized in reguard to speed and force applied to the part.

You can fabricate stop blocks to fit your face plate slots
to help hold parts in place.

I have made them like inverted tee slot blocks to eliminate
chance of rotation in the slot.

Bolt them in from the rear of the plate.

Going one step further, you can drill and tap these blocks
for set screws to give a bit of adjustment against the parts.

Kap
Fadal Turn, Fadal Vmc 15, Prototrak 16 x 30 Cnc Lathe, Pratt and Whitney 16 x 54 lathe, Pratt and Whitney Vertical Shaper, G & E 16" Shaper, B & O Electric turret lathe, 36" Doall band saw,
Enco B.P. Clone, Bridgeport CNC Mill, Delta 12" Surface Grinder.

pkastagehand
Posts: 156
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 9:12 am
Location: Holland MI

Post by pkastagehand » Fri Jul 24, 2009 9:33 am

If by not centered you mean objects with more mass to one side than the other you can counterweight the faceplate on the opposite side to reduce vibration by clamping a chunk of something over there.

Paul

User avatar
Frank Ford
Posts: 591
Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2007 12:41 pm
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Contact:

Post by Frank Ford » Fri Jul 24, 2009 9:45 am

I tend to think of clamping stuff on a faceplate as similar to a rotary table for milling. As long as everything's nice and tight and balanced within reason, I figure I'm good to go.

Recently I used my faceplate to hold an unmachned chuck adapter plate that was virtually the same diameter and I didn't want to drill holes in the adapter plate. So I made some "outrigger" T-slot clamps and used bolts and 3/16" steel straps to secure the two plates together:

Image

Image
Cheers,

Frank Ford

Black_Moons
Posts: 545
Joined: Wed Apr 15, 2009 6:57 pm
Location: Canada, Bc

Post by Black_Moons » Fri Jul 24, 2009 10:33 am

Wow thats a nice looking faceplate. is there any kinda name for that style insted of just the standard one?

User avatar
Frank Ford
Posts: 591
Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2007 12:41 pm
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Contact:

Post by Frank Ford » Fri Jul 24, 2009 3:25 pm

I don't know if it has a special name. I got it off eBay, and it's one of three basic styles I often see there for the Hardinge taper nose. One style has no holes or slots, and the other has only tapped holes.
Cheers,

Frank Ford

Willy B
Posts: 119
Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:16 pm
Location: Connersville, IN

Post by Willy B » Sat Jul 25, 2009 3:40 pm

I think the Rule of Thumb for mounting stuff on a face plate is if the part is held is the right position and you think it is secure, go for it. If balance is an issue, you can add balance weight or slow the speed.

It seems the face plate is usually used as a last resort, so it is difficult to have many rules or be too picky about the setup. Quite often the job is a difficult one off, so spindle speed and machining time are not of huge importance.

Like the guy said in Mister Mom, "220-221, whatever it takes".

Bill

Post Reply